l4610 remove fel control valve

[emanaresi]

I want to take the fel control valve off of my tractor to try to clean/ repair it. When I disconect the supply and return lines (they dont have quick disconects) will it be okay to just leave tehm open until I can reinstall the valve? I will of course be sure to not start the tractor until I reinstall teh valve, but is it ok to just leave those fittings open? should I tape them up or something?

 

[newbury]

I'd at least wrap a baggie around it, fastened with duct tape.

 

[emanaresi]

Yeah that's what I was thinking.

 

[rbargeron]

...... I will of course be sure to not start the tractor until I reinstall the valve.........

I once started my L5450 with an open hose and promptly sprayed oil all over my garage. DOOH!! You could buy a pipe coupling for 2 bucks and kill 2 birds ?

 

[emanaresi]

Yeah, I thought of that, but I don't know what thread it is. I'll measure it when I unhook it and if its something easy to get I will couple it.

 

[rbargeron]

The hose ends have standard JIC 37 degree hydraulic swivel fittings with npt male threads that go into the valve body. You may only need a standard npt pipe coupling, 3/4" or 1/2" depending on the size you have. You can buy a JIC Hydraulic coupling with swivel flares on both ends but they cost more. The npt coupling is about a buck and is plenty strong enough.

 

[emanaresi]

Thanks guys, I allready took it off, cleaned and inspected it and reinstalled it. It still does not operate correctly. When I lift the bucket with the lever, it goes up when the lever is pulled part way. When you pull the lever all of the way, it stops going up until you move it back to "slow up". I can't wrap my head around what is going on.

 

[rbargeron]

The fact that it was taken apart before you got it may be a reason to check it carefully to make sure everything is there and assembled in the right position and order. The attached .pdf is from the K parts website (you probably already have it).

 

[emanaresi]

No, it was installed on the tractor when I got it. I took it off, disassembled it and reassembled it. I didn't realize the issue when I bought it because the lever was adjusted so that it hit the metal trim around it before it got to the spot where it stopped going up. So, it the loader would only lift slowly when you puled it to the "stop".

After I adjusted the linkage, i realized there was some other, problem. I can't figure that out.

I think I may just replace the valve, but I can't pay 700 for one from kubota... What are my best options.

 

[rbargeron]

It sounds like the spool is being mis-positioned. It wouldn't take much spool travel error to make it goofy. From your earlier post I thought the fourth detent ball was missing when you first opened it up, indicating someone had been in there before. I dunno which valves are decent substitutes - but people will probably chime in. eBay? Surplus Center?

 

[emanaresi]

oh, im sorry, yes, it did show signs of having been tampered with before, but everything seems to be in order as far as I can tell

 

[rbargeron]

Maybe a long shot, but is it possible the 2 valve spools became interchanged at some point in the valve's history?

The symptom you describe of slow motion when it moves brought to mind a design feature of some Kubota loader valves. To control how fast the load dumps when extending the curl cylinders, full pressure is applied to both sides of the piston. The rod side has less area so the big side wins and the cylinder moves, but much slower than it would with free exhaust on the rod side. Then I got thinking if your spools were swapped the boom would raise slowly. Would maybe have some other strange behavior too. Ok I admit it's a very long shot.

I was looking at the valve .pdf and it appears it could be assembled in any order - but the spool groove spacing is not the same on both.

 

[emanaresi]

I wondered about that, but the float function on the lift spool does work. It doesn't lock in place well, but it does float. That leads me to believe the spools are not swapped.

 

[rbargeron]

In the diagram it looks like the detent feature is an add-on that screws into the end of the spool - the actual float performance may just be a wide passage in the body that connects the work ports - either spool would float in that bore ?

 

[emanaresi]

Yeah, but I assumed that the float feature had to be on the spool for the detent to work. Maybe not. I'll test the theory anyway. I think if I just flip flop the lines from one set of work ports to the other it should prove or disprove the swapped spools without any disassembly. See any issue with that?

 

[rbargeron]

Nope - its a good idea. I'm not real confident the spools can even be swapped. Their fit in the bore is very precise and they may not be interchangeable.

 

[emanaresi]

I really think they could be interchangeable. I hope that is the issue. But I doubt it. Gotta try before spending $$$ on a valve tho

 

[rbargeron]

The clearance is very small - sometimes as little as .0002" on the diameter (up to .0012" +/-). They get it by reaming/honing the bores in the body and then grinding the spool lands to fit.

Pretty sure the spool mentioned in your other thread that was out .003" was damaged beyond repair. The annular leakage has to be very small. In the hydraulic valve world, .003" is big enough to drive a truck through.

 

[emanaresi]

The other guy said his machinist was able to true it up and it works now. I have a suspicion that I could have a similar issue. Here is my theory about these husco valves. The float detent gets all crapped up by water and dirt. Then it becomes difficult to get into float. The operated forces it and the long control lever makes a lot of force on the spool. Thus bending it slightly. I suspect I could have the same issue. I just don't know how to test my theory. Also, I don't think I can buy a replacement spool. I think I'll end up replacing the valve. I just want to exhaust my options before opening my wallet

 

[J_J]

Should you need a new valve, look at this joystick valve.

You have about 9.6 GPM pump flow.

This valve has regen, float, and PB port

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

This valve has float and PB port. NO regen.

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 14 GPM PRINCE LVR JOYSTICK LOADER VALVE