L6060 Top N Tilt

[MtnViewRanch]

Great info Brian and thanks for that. I like your diverter idea but think it will be a little more involved. I will need to feed the diverter from one of the remotes, I'm thinking ahead of the existing couplers and then run 4 lines out of it, one set to the existing couplers and the second set to a new set of couplers that hopefully could be mounted on top of the existing stack. There is not a lot of room between the remote valves and the couplers to do all of that but it may be possible. I will take a closer look and do a little more head scratching to try and visualize how this could be done. I remember there was a real cluster of hoses running into and out of the diverter valve on the old tractor and there was a lot more room where I mounted that setup. Going to take a look the next time I get out to the tractor. Likely wont get to this in quite a while though, since I don't need the 3rd remote yet.

What I think the best way to do this, is to mount the diverter on top of the current coupler stack.

Disconnect the 2 hoses feeding the top couplers.

Connect those hoses to the supply side of the diverter.

Either run 2 hoses from the default side (red capped QDs) of the diverter back to the OEM couplers (preferred) and install a set of couplers on the diverter for the diverter function or install a second set of couplers (red capped QDS) on the default ports of the diverter and do not use the factory couplers (remove) that have been disconnected to be able to supply the diverter.

Sorry if this is not clear enough, but I know that it works either way, I have had customers do just as I have described.

 

[Jchonline]

I got a TNT set on my M62 along with 3 remotes....it is just awesome with the hydraulic angle blade.

 

[Hilbilly]

What I think the best way to do this, is to mount the diverter on top of the current coupler stack.

Disconnect the 2 hoses feeding the top couplers.

Connect those hoses to the supply side of the diverter.

Either run 2 hoses from the default side (red capped QDs) of the diverter back to the OEM couplers (preferred) and install a set of couplers on the diverter for the diverter function or install a second set of couplers (red capped QDS) on the default ports of the diverter and do not use the factory couplers (remove) that have been disconnected to be able to supply the diverter.

Sorry if this is not clear enough, but I know that it works either way, I have had customers do just as I have described.

That's awesome and simple.:thumbsup: Thank you very much!!