Been there, done that...
I was lucky to have decided on a bit bigger tractor on the first trip around (where many first timers have under estimated their inevitable and eventually growing needs) with the L3650 Grand L with LA805 and BH92 over the LX or L2501 (or larger HP in those same basic frame sizes).
Every season I will clear dead wood, (blown in trees) from the lake that fronts the property. (I didn't think being downwind would be all that bad, but it truly is a working mans shoreline !!)
Some of this stuff is massive, and water logged. 20ft or more long and some 24" or more in diameter. I can pull these out of the water or along the beach with the Land Pride 72" Grapple (SGC15), and then to shore where I can lift (maybe only one end at a time if they are too massive or intertwined with other trees), cut them into smaller pieces, and then get them relocated.
I've had years where the debris field that's been blown in along the bank is 3ft to 4ft deep and 20 feet out along a 100 to 200ft shoreline. I used to clear this with brute force, a pickup truck with a plow, and towing the logs out with a work boat.
That took effort and time, dependent on the water level and how far the debris field is pushed inland.
Having never used a Tractor before last season, I can say that the HST Trans is the second most impressive thing about the Kubota Grand Series that I have so far experienced.
Its got Low Med and Hi Ranges for general speed/work considerations, and then each of those are effectively doubled with a fast or slow selector on the steering column (Like a turn signal lever) . (6 ranges of speed/work positions in a hydro unit... its just awesome!)
For clearing this stuff I'll hit the field with the 72" Grapple, and have 3 or 4 10ft high Burn piles ready to go within the first hour typically using Med range, and keeping it in HST slow. If I have a lighter load of material I'll flip it into HST fast mode while moving. It is definitely a time saver and becomes automatic without even looking at anything.
Additionally, I can keep the engine RPM basically at idle the whole time using less fuel and only using the power I need, when I need it. Stall Guard is automatic, and the Throttle up button on the loader stick lets me get faster engine RPM (and faster cycling of the loader/Grapple) without increasing the speed of the tractor at the wheels while its moving (its awesome as there is no physical link between engine speed and tractor speed except where its required!).
I do find I have to time it right and start the throttle up before I really need it, otherwise I end up waiting for the engine speed to greet the load. That too becomes second nature. OR I could just increase the throttle across the board and not have to worry about it. Again, that does not vary the speed of the tractor at the wheels either...
Maintaining an increased throttle paradigm also plays into the effective use of the DPF system. Continual low engine speed pressure on the engine (loading it up close to a stall) will cause additional DPF exhaust filtering to take place causing a required regen earlier than running a consistent engine speed.