Landscape Rake, should I get Gauge Wheels?

[Stomper]

Is THAT what the problem is? Well, in that case, a rake without wheels stinks.

The rake runs on the wheels, which run on the raked ground, so the depth of the rake is controlled by the area that has already been flattened. Any other set-up, including the long wheels and no top link, forces the rake depth to be controlled by the tractor movement, which is transmitting position of unworked ground. If you are putting a finish polish on a completed job, a fixed-position rake might be good, but if you are trying to smooth rough or uneven terrain, gauge wheels are an absolute must.

JayC

I have no experience with landscape rakes but I do have a limited amount with a rear blade. I need to do a major landscaping job in my yard on some rough terrain and have been wondering about making a set of gauge wheels for my blade. So for what it's worth, I totally agree with this statement and can see where gauge wheels will help out greatly in my sitiation, especialy with my limited experience with the blade. I have tried to level with the blade and like Jay4200 says, the uneven ground the tractor runs over gets directly translated to the blade. It wouldn't if the 3 point was in float, but with it in float I can't control the amount of material I'm taking off.

 

[/pine]

Two things landscape rakes do that is not desirable...they tend to separate courser gravel from the fines and they leak windrows of material from both ends...

I tried using wheels but found they are more of a hindrance with hydraulic T&T...

I now have a "box rake" as I cut out some end plates for either end of my Woods rake...no more windrows...!

 

[AGTtactical]

Two things landscape rakes do that is not desirable...they tend to separate courser gravel from the fines

Well, that's what makes them desirable too...a rake wouldn't be very helpful if it moved everything...then it would be a blade. I want to leave the finer stuff (dirt) and get the courser things (rocks and sticks).

and they leak windrows of material from both ends...

Only if you don't angle it...at 30 degrees or more it will only leak out one end, and if you over lap that windrow, you eventually collect all the things you don't want along one edge of your field, where you can mulch it or scoop it up.

I tried using wheels but found they are more of a hindrance with hydraulic T&T...

Not if you use a centered single gauge wheel like EA. The advantage here is that you can angle your blade using your TNT without changing any wheel setting, let alone two.

 

[/pine]

Well, that's what makes them desirable too...a rake wouldn't be very helpful if it moved everything...then it would be a blade. I want to leave the finer stuff (dirt) and get the courser things (rocks and sticks).

Only if you don't angle it...at 30 degrees or more it will only leak out one end, and if you over lap that windrow, you eventually collect all the things you don't want along one edge of your field, where you can mulch it or scoop it up.

Not if you use a centered single gauge wheel like EA. The advantage here is that you can angle your blade using your TNT without changing any wheel setting, let alone two.

You said yourself that you're no expert...but you're contesting what I related from almost 11 years of experience using the rake I described?

...the last thing I want is a rake that is prone to getting high centered (with a middle wheel) when moving from one contour to another...

 

[AGTtactical]

Well pine, I guess it didn't take me 11 years to figure this out like you, because everything I said is accurate. But that still doesn't make me an expert, lol.

And how exactly are you going to "high center" a middle gauge wheel over material you just leveled with the rake?

 

[npalen]

I find that gauge wheels are what makes the landscape rake! I don't understand the need for float, especially when using gauge wheels, as the 3PH has built-in float which is better as it acts like a parallel linkage.

The tractor can be going up and over and down and thru rough spots but the rake stays mostly level because the gauge wheels are running on level ground. Make sense?

The gauge wheels do need to be large diameter and width to do a good job of carrying the rake.

On a side note, I found out this spring that a landscape rake is an excellent tool for pulling gravel out of grass with the rake angled. Someone had pushed snow in the cemetery this past winter resulting in a huge amount of rock/gravel into the grass along the drives. I adjusted the top links so the rake would be very aggressive. It would fill up with dormant buffalo grass but pull the gravel back onto the drive as well. I didn't guess that it would work that well.

KW-MM STIHL PowerSweep | Power Broom | STIHL USA
A similar tool to this also worked great for moving rock out of the grass.
Stihl power broom - YouTube

 

[AGTtactical]

I find that gauge wheels are what makes the landscape rake! I don't understand the need for float, especially when using gauge wheels, as the 3PH has built-in float which is better as it acts like a parallel linkage.
The tractor can be going up and over and down and thru rough spots but the rake stays mostly level because the gauge wheels are running on level ground. Make sense?
The gauge wheels do need to be large diameter and width to do a good job of carrying the rake.
On a side note, I found out this spring that a landscape rake is an excellent tool for pulling gravel out of grass with the rake angled. Someone had pushed snow in the cemetery this past winter resulting in a huge amount of rock/gravel into the grass along the drives. I adjusted the top links so the rake would be very aggressive. It would fill up with dormant buffalo grass but pull the gravel back onto the drive as well. I didn't guess that it would work that well.
KW-MM STIHL PowerSweep™ | Power Broom | STIHL USA
A similar tool to this also worked great for moving rock out of the grass.

Exactly! Did it leave your some of you grass intact?

 

[npalen]

Oh definitely! Didn't hurt the turf at all.

 

[SmallChange]

I bought a new ETA rake without the wheels. I have i a quick hitch with an adapter plate welded to it so i take my bucket off and use the rake in front of the tractor in reverse. Works pretty good.

I'm hoping to do this soon, as I'm getting a tractor with a FEL. So far I've only used it on the rear.

Question for you: do you float the loader, or is that too much weight on the rake?

 

[SmallChange]

I do the same with a front mounted 3PT. Very convenient and more precise control for small areas compared to tradional rear mount. However, I managed to bend the rake last weekend by catching it on an unseen stump.

Question for you, if you don't mind: when you do this, do you float the loader on the rake, or is that too much weight?

I mean when it's not on an unseen stump. Nice twist, there....