Landscape trailer advice wanted

[NS Gearhead]

I'll have to get some prices... but what about 2x3-3/16" for the outside and angle or channel for the cross members? That way the deck screws or bolts aren't going through square, and I still get the strength on the outside where it matters most.

I wouldn't use it on salted winter roads... but I like the thought of drain/ undercoating holes.

 

[Shield Arc]

Very interesting to hear about pricing in different location. In my area square, and rectangular tubing is outrageous in price.:shocked:
If you do decide to go with tubing, may be these charts will help. The spans are awfully short tho.

 

[mark02tj]

I can't really weigh in on material opinions, but I would advise to make sure that you can easily remove the rear gate if you need to. If you ever buy something that needs loaded via fork lift, the fork lift won't be able to drive up your ramp. And it won't be able to load it from the sides. Also, if you're hauling brush, a removable rear gate will allow you let the brush hang over the end. Don't forget to weld on plenty of cargo tie-down points.

Last spring I bought a chipper and had it delivered via truck to a freight terminal. I rented a trailer (from Home Depot) and removed the rear ramps in advance. Made loading and unloading (with FEL forks borrowed from a buddy of mine!) a breeze. Couldn't have done it with the ramps on the trailer. I bought a nice 5x8, 3500lb axle trailer a few months ago. The hinge pins are welded to the hinges so they won't slip out. At some point, I'll be replacing those hinges with something that allows me to remove the gate.

Another option is to allow the rear gate to fold completely over into the bed of the trailer. That quickly allows you to handle the "brush situation" mentioned above, but still leaves some challenges for loading pallets (the entire floor is no longer the same level) if that need ever arises.

Based on your other projects you've posted, you're a super creative guy! I'm looking forward to see what you come up with for a trailer design!!!

 

[NS Gearhead]

Thanks! I will make the gate removable. Good tip. I'm afraid this build might not be very creative... but I'll try. LOL

Those videos were also quite helpful... things like setting the angle of the spring shackles, and length of tongue...

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

SA,

I had to look up Kips....Not a trained engineer...but easy to understand versus other measurements of strength and easier to apply.

A trailer like a 5x10 would typically use 2x2x 14 or 11 gauge tubing or 2x3 x 14 gauge. This is what is used around here for short trailers. Larger ones step up to 2x4 or 2x5 rectangular tubing 11 or 14 gauge for up to 20 feet. Not seeing that on your chart...did I miss it?

I got a quote last week for a trailer I was going to use 2x2x20, 11 gauge tubing and it was 37.10. A 2x3x20 by 1/4" angle iron was 47.70. 2x4x24 x 11 gauge rectangular tubing was 66.53. A 2x6x20 x 11 gauge was 73.83. And 2x 4x20x 3/16 rectangular tubing was 78.61.

In general use, a trailer like this would either use 2x3 3/16" or 1/4" angle or 2x2 14 or 11 ga tubing. It's not so much the overall strength as it is the flex in the trailer. Angle iron is not good compared to the rigidity of the trailer. I had asked about the 2x2 angle for part of it, but was not much cheaper than the 2x3 angle.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

NS gearhead,
Some axle manufacturers give a length of the hanger spacing, but the way is shown in the video works out to be about the same

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

As far as people worrying about screwing through the tubing and getting leaks and rust etc. It's done every day. But the easy way around it is to buy a little angle, maybe 1/8 x 1x1" and spot weld it down the length of the tubing so that the flat area is facing out and flush with the top of the tubing. You can then screw the floordown through the angle. Or just use expanded metal for the floor. It'll weigh less and still carry the load. If you have to haul dirt you can always go back and add some cheapplywood over the top temporarily. But with adding the small angle, You've added a bit of extra strength, spent marginally more money and time, and in the end have a better built trailer with more rigidity and a lot sharper look to it.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Thanks for all the info Mark!

Called my local steel supplier;

2x3 1/8" sq tubing; $3.50/ft
2x3 3/16" sq tubing; $4.75/ft
2x3 angle iron; $2.80/ft
6X1/8" plate; $2.30/ft
2x2 1/4" sq tubing; $4.35

 

[NS Gearhead]

Sooooo;

main frame; 28' X $4.75= $133
cross members; 40 x $2.80= $112
tongue; 7 X $4.35= $30.45
Side, front and gate plating; 56' X $2.30= $128.80

Forgot to ask about 2x2 1/8" for tongue supports, ramp, and posts for the sides... but it should be in the $3/ft range... so 75' X $3 = $225

2X6X10' pressure treated lumber X 11 X $9.86 = $108.46

Total; $737.71 X 1.15% (tax) = $848.36 and I bought the axle and spring hanger kit yesterday for $151.80 so $1,000.16

I'll still need to pick up springs, U bolt kit, fenders, hardware, light kit, wheels I have, tires I'll prob get used for free, tie downs and have to decide what i'll put on the upper 3' of the gate... So $1,200ish for a trailer that would be twice that much at the store.

 

[Shield Arc]

SA,

I had to look up Kips....Not a trained engineer...

I'll be dam, what do you know, we found something I knew that you didn't! :cool2: