Lawn Aerator question

[Dataway]

I'm building an Aerator for my lawn, 36" wide, about 16" in diameter, spike type (actually more like blades). Anyway, as yet I haven't decided on how to tow it .... I can put a hitch on it and tow it with any of the tractors, or the ATV .... this will allow me to make reasonable radius turns, but I won't be able to lift it over obstacles like driveways, walkways etc.

Option 2 is a three point hitch setup which will allow me to lift it over things, but could be very nasty if I forget to lift it and make a tight turn, or probably ANY turn.

Option 3 would be a three point hitch with a pivoting neck ... picture a large shopping cart wheel pivot sort of design ... which would allow me to lift it and it would pivot like a hitch while on the ground .... potential problem with this is when it was lifted it would tend to flop over to the side. I could put stops on it ... but that would also limit turn radius. And this option would be more complex to build, requiring a pretty hefty bearing or bushing in the "neck" to lift the aerator plus it's weight blocks.

I've ruled out a wheel lift system, too complex, plus I've got a cab on the small tractor and it would be out of reach on the big tractor.

I've never used an aerator .... so could use some advice on what might be a problem, what might not.

Thanks

 

[jaxs]

Of the options you named,convenional 3 point sound's like a logical design,not to mention easy to build. Just don't forget to lift it before you turn. My biggest complaint with making it 3 point is that like a disc,it must be twice as heavy as it's drag type conterpart in order to engage soil with ample force. Try looking at how old tractor and mule drawn plows were lifted when operator yanked a rope to engage dogs on wheels. I believe that design would be ideal for anything you choose to tow with and swivel tongue take's car of sharp turns. One would be a challange to build but I rent a walk behind airator that pulls pencil size plugs of soil and spit them out on surface. St Augustine especially seem's to benifit from having soil plugs mix with accumilated clippings that would eventually cause thatch.

 

[Wagtail]

3PH mount is my advice. There's really no need for 'turns', just use it like you would a plough. Easy peasy.

And, yes, I have an aerator:

 

[Ford850]

3PH with removable tow bar/tongue would be my choice. That way you have either option depending on the area, and would be very easy to fab.

 

[metalbender]

Does your tractor have ssqa bucket? A front mount aerator would let you have some down pressure and see what's going on for obstacles.

 

[npalen]

I've seen a rototiller that was 3PT but also had a swivel. It was made to lock the swivel when the 3PH was raised. Will see if I can find any info for you.

 

[jonsstihl]

I think building a spike aerator is kind of pointless. that one pictured hasn't got nearly enough spikes and it just compacts the dirt around the hole. you really need to look into a core aerator build.

do you have a hydraulic top link. may be a set of gauge wheels on the back that could be lifted up by shortening the top link. you would need a decent amount of travel on the top link.

 

[npalen]

Deere with Aerovator - YouTube
Universal AERA-vator - YouTube
Aerovator on bare dirt - YouTube

These videos show the operation of the AeroVator on 3PH. They unfortunately do not show a closeup of the latching mechanism that locks the implement from swinging side to side when raised then unlatches to allow turning while operating. The chains at the top link carry the unit when raised and the latch is activated.
The AeroVator loosens the soil without removing plugs or severely disturbing it.

 

[workinonit]

I was going to suggest making a Verticut machine. They use them on golf courses. basically knife blades that slit the grass and ground without disturbing things very much.

 

[RalphVa]

Around here, you can rent a 3ph one. It has the spikes that are rounded steel such that they poke a hole but bring out soil from inside the round steel spikes. You end up with slightly bigger holes in which you can put compost after.

Don't really think you need to aerate so much as just put the compost onto the grass. You can use anywhere from about a 1/4" up to 2 or 3 inches. One of our master gardeners dumps it on such that it almost covers all her grass and then rakes the grass some to bring up some greenery above the compost.

Ralph