leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C)

   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C) #11  
You can clean the head & top of the piston with a wire brush on a drill or angle grinder.
As for the "inlet seat", are you talking about the float bowl needle valve seat? They
should be the same. You can't replace a pressed in seat with a threaded seat (i'm sure
you know that).
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C)
  • Thread Starter
#12  
<font color=blue>As for the "inlet seat", are you talking about the float bowl needle valve seat? They
should be the same. You can't replace a pressed in seat with a threaded seat (i'm sure
you know that). </font color=blue>

I think so. Item 11 in the attached pic, but it actually looks different, see next post

Edit Here:

What I meant by "should I worry about it" was, should I get the correct one IE the press it seat & replace it, or is cleaning the seat & replacing the inlet needle good enough?
 

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   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C)
  • Thread Starter
#13  
In the previous pic, the seat is horizontal. The seat is actually vertical (horizontal in the attached pic, but the carb has been rotated relative to the previous post) Clear as mud eh?
 

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   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C) #14  
Well, that does look a bit confusing. If the needle valve didn't leak thru before, I wouldn't
worry about changing the seat. I haven't had to change many seats, if I did, it was
because it came with the kit.
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C) #15  
Hazmat, I'm just a little confused. Item 11 in the first view looks like the fitting that the fuel hose clamps on. Item 10 would be the float needle seat. The second picture gives you a technique for removing the float needle seat (the press in type). Both types of seats were used and I would think that if you have the proper carb kit you should have the proper seat or both seats, some carb kits cover several different model carbs. You may want to compare the other parts in the kit to what you have. As far as cleanig the carbon, I like to use one of those flimsy little "giveaway" pocket rulers. You can use the round end and the flat end as a scraper to get the heavy stuff off. Then I use a wire brush and carb clean to clean it up nice. Just remember you are working with aluminum and it gouges easy. Nothing wrong with using a "motorized" wire brush either as long as your careful not to remove too much aluminum in the process, you just have to be gentle. Don't clean the gasket surface like this, the best way to do that is scrape off any heavy stuff. Then if you have an old peice of glass laying around or a flat machined surface you can clean it up by rubbing on a piece of 400 grit wet and dry paper keep it wet and clean with carb clean. Just lay the paper on your flat surface and "sand" the head in a circular motion. And like Ron just said, if the seat was'nt leaking you can blow off that step. Just shoot some carb clean through the old one and use the new needle valve. By the way item 9 is the needle valve.
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C)
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Kub & ron,

Hmm maybe the item number (11 vs 10) was a typo in the manual, don't have it in front of me now to check.

How do I know if the seat was leaking?

The other parts in the kit appear to match the existing parts.

Thanks for your help guys!
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C) #17  
Fuel enters at item 11 flows through item 10 past item 9 and fills the float bowl. Item 9 is attached to the float (item 4). With no fuel in the bowl the float drops to the bottom (it's on a "hinge pin"). As the float, "floats" up, item 9 seals off item 10 and stops the flow of fuel to the bowl. This is what maintains the proper fuel level in the float bowl. If item 9 and 10 were leaking you would notice a constant fuel leak from the carberator especially when the engine is shutdown. Depending on the severity of the leak you may not have a problem while the engine is running but this condition could cause overfueling.
Some people just turn off the fuel when the engine is not running when they have a leak in this location rather than repair it and never have a problem. Depending on the mounting and model of the carb and it's location to the valves. The fuel could seep into the valvetrain and combustion section of the engine, causing the fuel to fill the crankcase of the engine. You would not experience this condition on your engine due to the design and location of your carb. You would just have a constant leak from the carb.
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C)
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Ut Oh, Sounds like I might have a leak there, as the leaf blower smells of gasoline when it has been sitting.

Maybe It's time to call Jacks back & get the right seat since I've got everything apart & I don't know if it's the needle or the seat that is causing the leak.
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C)
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well I cleaned the carb & reassembled using the new parts that came in the kit. Cleaned the carbon off the head & cylinder top. Replaced the head gasket for good luck.

Brought it outside. Started on the first pull! After playing with the high speed needle, it runs like a champ!

Thanks to everybody for their help!!!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Now. any suggestions how to blow leaves that are under 2" of snow? Come spring, I'll be ready!/w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif
 
   / leaf blower blues (Briggs 8HP I/C) #20  
Yeah, our snow came early and hasn't melted yet - this is the longest December cold spell I can remember.

Leaves under snow are hard to blow - but wet, matted leaves in spring are even harder!
 

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