Backhoe Leaking Backhoe Valve

[MSU_Keith]

After digging up a few stumps with my backhoe (2365) on CK30HST and beginning to fill in dirt with front loader, I heard an ugly hissing sound from the hoe control station. Looking back there was hydraulic fluid spewing from under the controls. I immediately shut down the engine and was able to disconnect the backhoe - it looked like about a 1/2 gallon of fluid had leaked out but the dip stick still showed enough fluid so the tractor side is still operational. Pulling the cover off the BH control box showed the leak is coming from between 'float spool' and the 'base plate' (names per user's manual) - circled in picture. There was a small chunk of seal sticking out of this gap so I assume this is just a seal kit that needs repair.

I am looking for the best advice on how to repair this in the most effecient method since the sun comes up and goes down while I'm at work Monday through Friday. Should I try to repair in place by pulling the base plate/joystick assembly off on site (no garage or barn) or pull all the hoses and the whole control stack off and bring to a comfortable location? I suspect that the issue is the 'Mech. Joystick Seal Kit' shown under the base plate in manual but I am not sure how easy a repair this is in an outside location, although I certainly don't want to pull the whole valve stack off if I can avoid it with an easy repair in . Also, has anyone experienced this failure on the 2365?

Thanks,
Keith

 

[VictorW]

I have had my entire valve assembly off my KB2375 bh and all the sections split to repair one of the stab leg valve blocks. It's a pretty simple design and you should be able to do the repair without pulling the valve assy off. There is no actual seal for the control lever bracket mounting to the top of the valve blocks. The seal you probably lost is a rubber o-ring and a backup/seal support nylon washer. It fits in a recessed cavity on the top of the valve block where the spool travels through, sealing the spool to the block. After taking the control bracket off, use a small pick or scribe and you should be able to get out what's left of the old rubber o-ring, then set the new one in first, followed by the nylon washer that supports the o-ring seal. Check the spool shaft for any scoring or rust pits that may tear up a new seal. The same seal setup is also used on the bottom end of each valve block.

 

[MSU_Keith]

Thanks for the follow up. Had some spare time to look at it today and I could not figure how to take off the control bracket. After taking off all the bolts on the ball arms there still was not enough clearance to get them out of the spool shafts. Is there a trick to disassembling this?

 

[VictorW]

I had taken off all three nuts from the ball studs that go into the spools which you have probably done. The retaining plate held by allan head bolts stays for now. The spools can turn in their respective valve blocks being that they are symetrical and are not "keyed" in any way. You can still move the spools up and down against the spring without fear of losing them in the valve block. It's been a while since I had mine apart, but if I remember correctly, the ball studs have a little of a sloppy fit into the spools giving you a little play. Once you get to the threads, you have more play. It's not remove one then the other. I believe I started removing the single stud first having the spool rotate a little then working the doubles out a little while rotating their spools. Then back to the single. It's sort of a little here and then there, working on each ball stud until you to get the room you need to remove the control unit with all three ball studs. Then remove the retaining plate off the top of the valve blocks to get at your seals. I hope this helps. Sorry I don't remember the exact combination of movements. If you try this method, I'm sure you'll get it apart. And putting it back together is the same way. A little here and there getting what you can until it's back in place.

 

[MSU_Keith]

Victor,

Thanks for the help - I'll give this a try this weekend (if it's not raining). Had all the bolts off but did not get much time to tinker - it's sort of like a puzzle. Do you think these seals are an in stock item at a dealership or will they need to be ordered? This is another step of the fix that I haven't gotten to yet.

 

[VictorW]

The rubber o-ring doesn't look like anything special other than getting the right size. The nylon plastic support washer is probably more dedicated to this application and I'd bet it needs replaced too if it's leaking that much. As far as being in stock, I'd call some dealers or check with several that post on this forum. Kioti has used several different brands of controls so it's hard to say if the parts you need are on the dealer's shelf. When I had to repair mine, the parts were at Kioti's state side warehouse. When you start taking it apart, remember that the spool diameter to valve block bore is just barely a clearance fit so you'll have no side to side play to help you.

 

[carhartt56]

Just a note ! In the left picture , there lookes like a crack in that top plate next to the right valve stem . Maybe not .

 

[VictorW]

Just a note ! In the left picture , there lookes like a crack in that top plate next to the right valve stem . Maybe not .

You might have the cause for the seal going bad. I didn't look at it that close before but you might have found the reason for the blown seal. That plate is pretty thick and I would be surprised it cracked but you never know. He may need another part if it's not just dirt. Good catch.