Sorry I'm a day late and a dollar short, as I just joined a few minutes ago after reading your post about your fuel tank repair. I was once a certified TIG welder, and still TIG and MIG weld some on occasion. Once welded on a gas tank that was about half full of gasoline. The way you safely do it is to: Take an argon hose from a Y adapter under the flow meter for a TIG rig (the TIG torch), as it is used to purge the air from stainless steel lines before and while welding them, since argon is an inert gas and is heavier than air, but is lighter than fuel. Drop this purge hose in the filler neck of the gas or fuel tank, as it will fill the remainder of the tank with the argon gas, which is non-flamable, as the argon gas is lighter than the gasoline or diesel fuel is, and the argon gas will flow out of the high point vent (in this case, the fuel filler neck). This argon gas hose will displace all of the air in the fuel tank, making it safe to weld on the tank even when there is fuel in the tank. When I welded on the tank, I could actually hear the gasoline boiling inside the tank, but since there was no oxygen to cause an explosion, it was safe, as you would need both fuel and air to cause a fire or an explosion. Another product I used a couple of months ago was a product called POR-15 Patch, as it's in a tube and it comes out where you can wear gloves and put a little on your finger, then smear it on a crack and even over rust, then the next day this stuff is as hard as nails. I'm no body man, so on my Mitsubishi D1500 tractor, which had some bad rust spots in the front and some with holes, I placed a piece of silicone on the inside and taped it in place, then took this Black Patch and smeared it all in the rusted area and bridged the gap where the holes were, then let it dry overnight, and the more humid it was the quicker it dried. You just don't want to get this or the paint on your skin, or you will have to wear it off! The next day it was hard, so I sanded it with a little sandpaper and spray painted it with some blue paint, and it looks better than the rust cancer that was once there the day before. But POR-15 also has a gas tank repair kit which works really well.
My problem now is trying to located on my D1500 Mitsubishi tractor, to see if there is a hydraulic filter and to find where it is located, and how to remove and to service it. I found a place online where they said to use an AW46 Tractor Hydraulic Oil for this Gray Tractor application. I purchased the tractor about 6 months ago, and have replaced the radiator and had to fabricate mounts to hold it in place (as the previous owner had the old radiator held in place with electric fence wire), fabricated a fan shroud in front of the radiator, added a 9 inch pusher type electric cooling fan with a thermostat, extended the frame out in front to relocate the battery, added LED lights in front, added 4 relay switches and a fuse panel, modified the dash with indicator lights and waterproof toggle switches, replaced all of the wiring and battery cables and am about to build an overhead type rollbar with an LED light bar built in looking to the rear, then to use 1X2 rectangular steel tubing from the top of this roll bar to the front bumper at an angle, so when bush-hogging around trees with low hanging limbs, it will help the limbs to slide over the top of the tractor instead of knocking me off!
I still don't know how to post anything on here, as this is my first post! Y'all will have to let me know if I am doing something wrong or not!
