Leaking Seal

[normde2001]

"I agree and I can't stand a half-done fix to a problem but I really wonder if the light weight hy-tran is the issue."

We're talking about a 25 yearold, $3,000+/- tractor here. It calls for 90w gear oil. I would fill with 140w, if still leaking, add transmission stop leak, and if it works , call it a good fix, (unless your dealer is just down the road). You can always replace the seals at any time.

 

[knute_m]

Quote from PRUNTYC:
"If it were mine, I would want to fix it right, not just patch it up, and probably ruin the seal area, and maybe some other stuff. I don't have much faith in these fly by night fixs, they don't really fix anything, just hide it for a while. Then what will you do, stick someone else with the tractor?"

In most cases I would fully agree with the Dick's statement. And if this tractor was bought with a warranty, from what I gather is very well known and reputable dealer, I would certainly ask for warranty support.

However, for those who may be reading this, and whose tractors aren't under warranty, I still feel that the Hub Oil is a reasonable alternative to a very time consuming and expensive repair. Had all the 4WD seals on my last tractor been professional replaced, the cost would have been about equal to one half what I paid for the 20 year old tractor. The one king pin seal I replaced was $92. The companion O-ring was $24. I'm certaily a lot slower than a mechanic who does this work regularly, but it took me a whole day to do the job, plus I had to buy a small floor jack just to press the seal into place. Then I found other leaks. The $21 of oil was well worth it and it stopped all the leaks.

The manuals for most Japanese tractors I've been involved with call for JD-303 equivalent hydraulic oil in the 4WD front-ends. Most people that I know replace the hydraulic oil with 90W-140W at the first sign of leaks. The hub oil is just one more step in this process.

As long as the bearings and gears are well lubricated, no damage is going to occur to a relatively slow moving tractor if a the rubber part of a seal has lost its flexibility.

It's not something that needs to be hidden to a potential buyer either. When I sold my tractor last month, I told the buyer exactly what I did. There were no leaks then, and apparently none now. Just a few days ago, after using the tractor for almost a month, he sent me a very nice note about how happy his is with the $2500 tractor.

And for Kendall -- when you do get it all fixed up, you'll love it. Those vintage Yanmars are wonderful little tractors that very seldom need any repair.

Good Luck

 

[Gizmo36]

I have had JD all my life that is all i wanted.Needed something small, And I got a YM 1700 they are good Tractor going to get a 2210B today.Kendall when you get it fix you will see how good they are.

 

[Soundguy]

Someone may have put in UTF or ATF oil in it. UTF wouldn't bother me.. but it is awfully thin.

If it were me.. I'd check for bearing play.. if none.. I'd drain oil, and refill with 85/140 and a bottle of lucas tranny conditioner. If that leaked excessively.. it probably needs a new seal. if you are in a situation where that is not feasable yet.. get a few tubes of JD cornhead grease.. or rhino gearbox grease.. it is a 0# grease.. and will settle aroud gear.. more like a super heavy oil rather than a grease.. that will 'get you by'. A long time ago I might have even said try 300w oil.. like use in marine low end units and model A diffy's.. but I havn't seen a source for it in years..

Unless it is just a worn seal from age.. generally leaky seals mean loose bearings..

Soundguy

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have a leak at the front left wheel. It seems the more I use the tractor, the worse the leak gets. I think part of the problem is that it appears that the front axle is filled with hydraulic fluid. I am not sure what it is but it certainly is not 90 wt gear oil. I had a suggestion to try transmission seal softner and heavier weight oil before changing the seal or going back to my dealer. Thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

Kendall

 

[VT_Hokie]

I would jack the front up and check for play and loose bolts, not sure about the 1510 but on the 1500 if the steering knuckle is loose it can cause the lower housing to drop when you go over rough ground or going on a trailer with an implement causing the weight to be shifted off the front.

As mentioned 90wt and the additives is probably the way in the end, but talk to the dealer first so atleast he knows of the issue.

Did you post a pic of the leak somewhere?

 

[pruntyc]

Knute M I don't know where you are getting your information at. But I have looked at different manuals, and I don't know of any Yanmar, except the new ones that John Deere has that calls for JD 303, they all call for 90# gear oil. I don't think you can find a manual for these 30 year old tractors that ever says to put anything light weight in the front axle. Like Soundguy says you might want to try heavier oil, and see what it will do. But if someone put transmission oil in, it would probably cause a leak.

 

[Soundguy]

Knute M I don't know where you are getting your information at. But I have looked at different manuals, and I don't know of any Yanmar, except the new ones that John Deere has that calls for JD 303, they all call for 90# gear oil. I don't think you can find a manual for these 30 year old tractors that ever says to put anything light weight in the front axle. Like Soundguy says you might want to try heavier oil, and see what it will do. But if someone put transmission oil in, it would probably cause a leak.

I've talked to an importer that said when his units came over.. it looke dlike everything had ATF in it except the crankcase... so you just never know what might be in there.. unless you put it in yourself.

Personally I'd rather use UTF than ATF.. and preferably, gear oil.. if the application called for it.

I know my ex-NH 1920 used UTF in all sumps but the crankcase. pow stering, final drivesm front axle.. etc,...

Soundguy

 

[knute_m]

I don't have any Yanmar manuals anymore, but I sure thought that the YM240 manual I had called for hydraulic fluid in the front end. I do still have a Hinomotor/Allis-Chalmers manual for the C174/5015, which is a 17 hp 4WD machine. It calls for "Allis Chalmers 821 Power Fluid or Simplicity Multi-purpose Hydraulic Transmission Oil" in the front end. Both are JD-303 equivalents. I'm 99% positive that the manual I had covering the little Massey 1010, 1020, and 1030 4WD drive machines also called for hydraulic fluid in the front-end. All of these were Japanese late-1970s and early-1980s contemporaries of the Yanmar YM-XXXXD series. So, I don't think it is unthinkable to have hydraulic fluid in the front end of a Yanmar.

But, whatever!

Thicker lubricant can always slow a leak. And on a tractor front-end, there isn't anything moving real fast that will be damaged if it has reasonably suffcient lubricant of most any weight.

Also, Soundguy mentioned 0# grease. I don't know if there is a difference between 0# and 00#, but Lucas also sells a 00# in the same size bottles as their many other lubircating products. It has the consistency of hand cream and is real handy around the shop where oil is too light and bearing grease is too stiff. Its great for lubricating things like PTO shaft extensions, fishing reels . . .

Knute

 

[Soundguy]

(think it is unthinkable to have hydraulic fluid in the front end of a Yanmar)

Not to pick.. but I hesitate to call UTF.. 'hyd' oil. Eventually some newby will see this and think it is ok to put 'jack oil' or aw32/46 in his tractor drivetrain and think he is ok.

If it is a jd303 equiv.. then it is a UTF.. I Know you know that.. this was just for others that might not..

Soundguy

 

[knute_m]

Not to pick.. but I hesitate to call UTF.. 'hyd' oil. Eventually some newby will see this and think it is ok to put 'jack oil' or aw32/46 in his tractor drivetrain and think he is ok.

Soundguy

Good point!

That is why my wife and grown kids don't help me with projects.

I think we've all been there -- "Would you get me the whatch-a-ma-callit? And when they get back, its: "Geeze No! Not that kind of whatch-a-ma-callit!!"

I think Mr. Red Green and the Possum Lodge gang say it best with the Man's Prayer: "I'm a man. I can change . . . If I have to . . . I guess."

Thanks,

Knute