LED shop lights

   / LED shop lights #161  
I really didn't. I know nothing about electric furnaces other than the cost of operation around here is not economical. Back on the 60's there were a number of 'all electric' homes built here that have since converted to other fuels.

My first house was built in 1979. All Electric. It was very efficient. Dead of Winter Electric bills between $200-250.
 
   / LED shop lights #162  
Our current house has Hydronic radiant floor heat (propane tankless heater). Also has a propane HVAC system with air to air heat exchanger. The air exchanger is awesome.
 
   / LED shop lights #163  
My first house was built in 1979. All Electric. It was very efficient. Dead of Winter Electric bills between $200-250.

All electric is the future here as decided by local and state agencies...

Natural Gas, Wood, etc. are basically no longer allowed in new construction to combat climate change in many areas of California.
 
   / LED shop lights #164  
All electric is the future here as decided by local and state agencies...

Natural Gas, Wood, etc. are basically no longer allowed in new construction to combat climate change in many areas of California.
good luck heating with electric, when Calif likes shutting off electric when the wind blows.
 
   / LED shop lights #165  
I've had my geothermal for about 15 years. My backup resistance heat has never kicked on in northern Indiana. I believe -22 is the coldest it's been.

I’ve had an open loop geothermal system since 1982. It is not impacted by outside air temp, an open loop system is about 25-30 percent more efficient than a closed loop. It’s common for a closed loop system to have a backup heat source in cold climates.

An open loop system takes water through it from a well and returns it into another well, pond or creek.

A closed loop system recirculates a glycol solution through a buried loop and will loose efficiency as it heats or cools the earth surrounding it.
Depending on your latitude, they can actually get the loop below freezing, hence the need for glycol.
An open loop is generally a constant 55 degree source, which is the sweet spot for a heat pump.
 
   / LED shop lights #166  
I’ve had an open loop geothermal system since 1982. It is not impacted by outside air temp, an open loop system is about 25-30 percent more efficient than a closed loop. It’s common for a closed loop system to have a backup heat source in cold climates.

An open loop system takes water through it from a well and returns it into another well, pond or creek.

A closed loop system recirculates a glycol solution through a buried loop and will loose efficiency as it heats or cools the earth surrounding it.
Depending on your latitude, they can actually get the loop below freezing, hence the need for glycol.
An open loop is generally a constant 55 degree source, which is the sweet spot for a heat pump.

I've got a closed loop and it does get around freezing by the end of the season, but I've never had any issues. My dad put in an open loop that dumps into a pond. It works well until it gets dirty. It has to be flushed a couple times a year or it won't work. My dad used to take care of it until he died. Now my 85 year old mom is there alone and she has to pay somebody to flush it out a couple times a year. I don't have to worry about that with my closed loop.
 
   / LED shop lights #167  
I've got a closed loop and it does get around freezing by the end of the season, but I've never had any issues. My dad put in an open loop that dumps into a pond. It works well until it gets dirty. It has to be flushed a couple times a year or it won't work. My dad used to take care of it until he died. Now my 85 year old mom is there alone and she has to pay somebody to flush it out a couple times a year. I don't have to worry about that with my closed loop.

Does your parents system draw water from the pond or a well?
I draw from a deep well, and have not had any issues with it getting dirty. Same for my son that draws from a well and returns to a pond.
 
   / LED shop lights #168  
Has anyone tried the lights with 4 adjustable panels that screw into a light bulb socket?

I've been wanting to but I've few sockets in my shops. I did try a few Light Bulb Socket Splitters.

I was initially concerned about creating too much heat. Instead it ended up being TOO bright, my 30 yr old son said it was as bright as the sun. My HF IR laser thermometer showed it barely got hot too the touch. I've a couple installed in the basement of one house, replacing 1 incandescent 60 watt bulb with 2 or 3 LED bulbs.

Another thing I like are the plug in Motion Sensor Flood Lights. I've several plugged in in various points in the shops where I find my self having to make short forays for tools/parts. They are relatively cheap ($15), provide lot's of light, turn on and off by themselves. One shop (~ 20x60) right now has 2 - one over a "tool bench", one on the other side lighting up my plumbing/lawn & garden/electrical supply pallet rack storage. I found my self frequently making short trips to get a tool or parts and dislike having to turn on an entire bank of my overhead lights (about 10 sets of my 4' LED fixtures) just to get or replace a special tool or part. And usually my hands are full either coming or going.

Before I got those it just bothered me to turn on all the lights to find or put something back. I'm not saving much $$ (my electricity cost is only about 8.5 cents/kwh) but it's worth it to me.
 
   / LED shop lights #169  
Does your parents system draw water from the pond or a well?
I draw from a deep well, and have not had any issues with it getting dirty. Same for my son that draws from a well and returns to a pond.

Their system draws from a well, apparently minerals in the water are causing problems.
 
   / LED shop lights #170  
No, Menards. I've bought my last ones. Going back to T8's.

i have Lithonia LED fixtures. IF the led tube breaks. I put a new one in...
they are the same look as your standard fluorescent fixture...but with a lot better output.
i would avoid lights you can't replace the bulbs in.
Tubes i get are from Phillips.

cheers
 
   / LED shop lights #171  
I worked for years replacing and installing street lights 40 up on an Altec boom truck. Got kind of tired of it. Thought that LED担 would limit that kind of work. It hasnt.

On the new intersection of freeway by my house there are 18 3 year old street lights that are new led. 3 of them are now dead. 50,000 hours my butt. The 3rd one went out just recently, as i only noticed it on sunday. Wonder how long till they all go out.

When i used to replace metal halide lamps we would get more life out of them. They would dim over time, but lasted more than 3 years.
 
   / LED shop lights #172  
I worked for years replacing and installing street lights 40 up on an Altec boom truck. Got kind of tired of it. Thought that LEDæ‹… would limit that kind of work. It hasnt.

On the new intersection of freeway by my house there are 18 3 year old street lights that are new led. 3 of them are now dead. 50,000 hours my butt. The 3rd one went out just recently, as i only noticed it on sunday. Wonder how long till they all go out.

When i used to replace metal halide lamps we would get more life out of them. They would dim over time, but lasted more than 3 years.

Was just at the hospital this am for some tests (once you survive stage 4 cancer they never leave you alone...), Anyway, they refitted to almost 100% LED lighting last year and I to am noticing many dark fixtures. Not something I pay a lot of attention to but walking down a corridor into a dim spot gets your attention.

I wonder if the upgrade and then relamping cost outweighs the energy usage. I have a feeling it don't.
 
   / LED shop lights #173  
People love to spend money in the belief that they will save money. I'm not always sure that actually happens.

I buy LED stuff when extremely advantageous or FREE. Beyond that, I'm not replacing anything.

Funny. Almost bought a box of brand new T8 Ballasts, from on-line auction, which you need anyway if using certain T8 LED retrofit tubes. Would have cost maybe $5.00 cdn/ box. I was worried how bad they were for RF. I did some investigating and managed to barely read the model numbers for apparntly they were one letter different from the good RFI models. Dodged a bullet! Would have been nice if they were the better model.
 
   / LED shop lights #174  
In my opinion you don't want to use the LED tubes that require a ballast, and it eliminates a lot of the power savings. yes it is more convenient to just snap in a retrofit tube, but you will save a lot more money if you go in and disconnect the ballast and use direct fed LED tubes. It only takes a couple of minutes to throw the breaker, and wire around the ballast. And you will never need to replace that ballast again, and it won't be there sucking up power and making heat either.
 
   / LED shop lights #175  
AND it won't be another thing to fail. I have no idea of the RFI situation with the 120volt retrofit tubes. I got a bunch of GE LED tubes really cheap that require ballasts so for the moment that what I'm doing.
 
   / LED shop lights #176  
AND it won't be another thing to fail. I have no idea of the RFI situation with the 120volt retrofit tubes. I got a bunch of GE LED tubes really cheap that require ballasts so for the moment that what I'm doing.

These are RFI free. I have many in the house. About 5 minutes to wire them. You need a pair of side cutters, and reuse existing wires and wire nuts. And you know how I feel about RFI :)

Amazon.com : hyperikon t8 4 foot led tube
 
   / LED shop lights #177  
A friend bought a bunch to put in some vapour tight T-8 fixtures I had gotten him some years ago. Seems his bulbs have to have live and neutral connections at one end only (two connections) and none of the tombstone connectors had that ability. He had to send them all back and get ones that wire up at each end. YET ANOTHER new thing to f#$# one up! Always these simple ten minute jobs that go straight to heck! And I'm on eth phone with him saying "waht to you mean?" "what do you mean?" The picture he sent me explained it all.
 
   / LED shop lights #178  
In my opinion you don't want to use the LED tubes that require a ballast, and it eliminates a lot of the power savings. yes it is more convenient to just snap in a retrofit tube, but you will save a lot more money if you go in and disconnect the ballast and use direct fed LED tubes. It only takes a couple of minutes to throw the breaker, and wire around the ballast. And you will never need to replace that ballast again, and it won't be there sucking up power and making heat either.

Yep...
 
   / LED shop lights #179  
A friend bought a bunch to put in some vapour tight T-8 fixtures I had gotten him some years ago. Seems his bulbs have to have live and neutral connections at one end only (two connections) and none of the tombstone connectors had that ability. He had to send them all back and get ones that wire up at each end. YET ANOTHER new thing to f#$# one up! Always these simple ten minute jobs that go straight to heck! And I'm on eth phone with him saying "waht to you mean?" "what do you mean?" The picture he sent me explained it all.

The tombstones are very cheap and very simple and fast to replace.

Amazon.com : t8 tombstone non-shunted
 
   / LED shop lights #180  
They do come in different heights. Some do appear so cheap, you think they will break when rotating the bulb into them.
 

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