LED worklights added to 3038e

   / LED worklights added to 3038e #1  

nikdfish

Platinum Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
993
Location
Person Co. NC
Tractor
John Deere 3038E & 1025R FILB
I recently added some LED work lights to the 2010 3038e.

The first added were some fender mounted 6 element floods (18w). I had previously installed a couple of side mirrors originally intended for use on ATV roll bars. To clamp them on the grab handles, I had drilled new holes & formed them into a tighter bend, but did not trim off the excess portion. The worklights got installed onto the original holes on the mirror mounts.

3038e-worklight-mount-1.jpg


In checking the wiring loom that feeds the ROP mounted lights, I found that the connectors for worklights were already present & capped. All I had to do was add bullet connectors (4.47mm "snap" connectors from NAPA) to my feed wires & connect the lights after mounting.

3038e-worklight-on.jpg


These work pretty well by themselves...

Just the headlights -

3038e-worklight-2.jpg


Now with the fender mount worklights added -

3038e-worklight-1.jpg


I could have stopped there, but later ended up ordering the same 22", 40 element flood/spot combo that I used for the 1025R.

I attached it the same way as on the 1025R, using a couple of 2" U-bolts and some aluminum angle stock. I made a couple of "Y" splitters for the male & female bullet connectors and used them to put both the fender mount plugins on one set of factory work light connectors & the light bar on the other.

3038e-ledbar-1.jpg
3038e-ledbar-3.jpg


3038e-ledbar-2.jpg
3038e-ledbar-4b.jpg


The light bar end mounts can be loosened via allen wrench to allow the bar to be rotated 180 degrees and point to the rear, if needed. I left enough play in the feed wire to accommodate the movement. No night pics of the light bar, maybe I'll add a couple later...

All the lights were sourced via Amazon, the fender floods were roughly $20, delivered (Prime shipping), for the pair. The bar was about $40, delivered (Prime shipping).

Nick
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e #2  
Nice light bar! Your headlights look useless now! I disconnected my headlights and used the wiring harness to power up my LED's so I didnt have to add a new switch on the dash. Low beam on the switch powers the forward LED's and high beam on the switch add in the rear LED's.
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e #3  
Those are nice. I run the big CREE multiple LED's on my ag tractors for night time field work, the 85,000 CP units. 4 facing forward, 2 back and one to the right side (so I can see side mounted attachments in the field). The only thing my incandescent headlights are good for now is parking lights. I can see out front about 1/2 mile. Mine all switch from the built in switch panel on the right side of the cab (along with the wipers and electric defogging grids.)
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e #4  
Looks great! I would like a large LED bar like that as my rear work light.
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e #6  
Looks good, I need to add some lights. Thanks for the idea.
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The lights look great. I really like the mirror idea so much I may have to copy it.

The mirrors were Cipa m37 & m38 UTV rollcage (1.75" - 2") clamp ons from Amazon. A new hole 1 7/8" in from the original worked out right for reforming the clamp to fit a JD grab handle with the rubber liner still used (just wrap w/overlap). I did reverse the left/right usage.

Nick
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e #9  
In the picture it looks like you used regular U -bolts
38XD74_AS01


Have you thought of flat (or square) -U-bolts?
u-bolt-square.jpg


I found the square ones hold better on many things that are not round.

My Tupelo, MS TSC carries them, at Home Depot I have to order them.
 
   / LED worklights added to 3038e
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I used square u bolts on the 1025R, I used regular U bolts because I happened to be in Lowes the day after the bar came in and they did not have any square. Figured I could make a trip to TSC for the square ones if they didn't work out. May still do so if vibration becomes an issue (plus go to the larger angle stock I used previously as well...).

Nick
 

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