Length of electrical run to shed?

[like2wheel]

I'd give some honest thought about how often you'll really need that 10amp power tool out there.

I had a similar situation, & decided to put together a simple off-the-grid solar arrangement.
A smallish panel & charge controller maintains an automotive battery that powers a couple 12v motion lights (1 inside & 1 outside) & also has enough capacity to trickle charge my tractor or ATV battery. And the battery conviently fits fits my cars in case of emergency.

I think I have less than $150 into it.
You might save enough that buy a small generator for when you do need a power tool out there. And then you'll have it for other occasions too.

Edit:
I see you addressed this option while I was composing this

 

[s219]

When my barn was being built, I bought 250' of #6 aluminum direct bury bundle, which we used as a temporary extension cord. That gauge was needed to carry a full 120V 15A over the distance to run power tools, compressors, etc without voltage drop being a problem. Never had a breaker trip even with multiple tools running at the same time. I invested in that particular wire because I figured eventually I would bury it to run permanent power to the barn (as a branch circuit from my home), but haven't had the need/urgency to do it yet. In the meantime, it's been used as an extension cord for other projects many times. I like being able to run my large compressor and saws 250' from my home for all my other projects.

 

[GPintheMitten]

For 350 ft need 8ga to run a 10A tool. Using 12ga you can run about 3 Amps of load. 12ga is plenty good for LED lights or a 30A battery charger. Maybe consider 10ga and run the 10A tool carefully, don't push it too hard.

Good synopsis. For the use you described, I would go with direct burial 10-2 w/ground and not push the size of the power tool too high. Besides battery operated power tools are so convenient. Sharp blades on circular saw make a world of difference too.

Oh, and use conduit to protect exit and and entries to building from the underground. I'ld go with a 20amp breaker from the panel and put in 20 amp gfci outlet in the shed.

 

[grsthegreat]

The best way to reference voltage drop is to use one of those cheap home depot orange 16 ga x 100 foot extension cords. Now take 2 or 3 and join them together. Now plug in a skill saw at the end and run the saw for a rew minutes.

If the saw diesnt burn up, feel the extension cord. It will be real hot.

Ive had employees wreck my tools in the past by running them on construction rated #12 cords, but linking 2 cords together. It fries the motors due to heat buildup.

 

[Wood_Butcher_Dav]

Last week at work - our '7-minute' training was on extension cords, put two together is bad


Dave

 

[TheGoose]

What does the NEC say on 240V service on something like this? I'd like to hear on the "no direct bury" deal.

 

[luvmexfood]

Check pricing on the yellow wire used for well pumps. I priced some the other day (10/3 and each conductor insulated) and it was a little cheaper than regular direct burial cable and is rated to be buried. Available at my local mom and pop hardware store and they will cut to length. No buying an entire roll. Did not see it at Lowe's.

 

[gatorguy7]

If you keep the power tools at your house, 12/2 UF will be fine. I ran electrical 500' to my gate at the front of my property. It powers two post lights with led bulbs and it charges the battery for the gate opener. Total usage is around 2 amps and my voltage is always <119.5 as measured by a voltmeter. Seems like electricians always want to overbuild as most I spoke gawked at running power more than 100' from the house.

 

[deezler]

Good thread. I just ran 200' of 10/3 direct bury wire to my remote little pole barn/shed. I'm hoping I can run 10 or 12 amp power tools ok, but the main reason is for LED lighting and a radio, etc.

I liked and paid for the 10/3 over the 10/2 so that I could either run TWO 120V 20A circuits, or run 240V if and when I'm ready.

My crappier initial plan is to simply run it as an extension cord from my house exterior power outlet. Eventually I will bring a conduit around the house so I can run 240 out there.

 

[grsthegreat]

If you keep the power tools at your house, 12/2 UF will be fine. I ran electrical 500' to my gate at the front of my property. It powers two post lights with led bulbs and it charges the battery for the gate opener. Total usage is around 2 amps and my voltage is always <119.5 as measured by a voltmeter. Seems like electricians always want to overbuild as most I spoke gawked at running power more than 100' from the house.

For afew leds and battery charger, your ok. Problem is for us overbuilt electricians, we have to meet something called the NEC. Thats national electrical code. Part of that involves voltage drop. Sure, you have 119 volts now, but if you place any real demand on that circuit, you will see the drop on the meter. I personally will not run 12/2 for 500 feet.


and i wont EVER run uf cable for anything. The most expensive part of a job like this is the trench. Why would anyone EVER use direct burial wire. If it fails...redig the thing. I cant even count the number of repairs ive had to do to UF failures over the years.
I will turn down a job before i use uf. Its a total waste of time and material. For not much more i can run 3 - #6 alum xhhw wires In conduit for slightly more money. I pay $0.11/ft for #12stranded and $0.14/foot for 6 alum. Mind you, UF installed would be cheaper, but not a fair comparison. The UF is a far inferior installation.
The #6 will allow less than 7% voltage drop at 500 feet whereas the copper will require 29% voltage drop. So for a savings of $45.00 you get a useless circuit run instead of one that will actually serve a purpose. But im sure the electrician is only trying to rip you off.