Let's talk third function on the cheap...

   / Let's talk third function on the cheap... #1  
D

davedj1

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Messages
1,225
Location
Jackson, NY
Tractor
Kubota L2501
My last Kubota L2850 had a third function but it was an actual valve mounted on the fender, it looked to be a factory deal as it had orange mount and all.
I really want a third function on my new Kubota L2501 but don't want to spend all that money for the electric solenoid kit. I can buy a valve that will work for $69 and a couple of hoses and be into it for around a $100 bucks.
I understand having a valve on the fender will be a bit less handy than the electronic valve but I managed with the last tractor. On the last tractor I had a thumb on the bucket and it worked fine.
What say yee?
 
   / Let's talk third function on the cheap... #2  
As long as the new valve has a PB port as most loader valves do...it is usually much less expensive than a diverter etc...


Can someone explain why folks often call a set of remote hydraulics a "third function" when there is no first or second function being overridden ?
Obviously when the curl/dump functions are overridden via an electric diverter whatever the diverter is connected to becomes the "third" function as the curl/dump are the first and second functions...
...just curious...
 
   / Let's talk third function on the cheap... #3  
I take third function to be third circuit on the loader. A diverter isn't really a third function by that definition.

Dave you need either a valve that has power beyond or a valve whose tank port can handle full system pressure. Many can't but there are some that can. I have a dealer installed valve on the fender which is one of those. I'm currently using it for the grapple. I changed the handle to point forwards which puts it close to the loader joystick.

You will want a set of disconnects in the hoses so you can take the loader off, and a set of quick couplers on a bracket for the grapple to connect to. Surplus center and discount hydraulic hose will have the parts for less than the local hydraulic shop. I suggest using JIC couplers. NPT is fine for 60psi home water systems but has a hard time with 2200 psi hydraulics. I use NPT to JIC adaptors and then use standard JIC ended hoses.

The manual valve does not cost that much less than a home brew third function. A solenoid valve costs about $115-125 and the D03 base plate is another $35 or so. You'll also need a switch, but there are inexpensive ways to do that, like using an ATV winch switch. The hoses and fittings cost will be pretty much the same between the two.
 
   / Let's talk third function on the cheap... #4  
Good stuff Eric!!!
 
   / Let's talk third function on the cheap...
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thank you guys for taking the time to help.
I'm not sure the valve needs power beyond as it will be after the loader valve. Unless the three point comes after?
I don't know what you mean by the full system pressure back to tank? I thought that was relatively low pressure?
Can you point me to the electronic solenoid valve at those prices? Cheapest I have found is 150 at sc and 40 for the sub plate.
I hadn't thought about the ATV switch, that actually would be about the easiest and most economical way to go and convenient.
I think you make a great case for not doing the manual valve Ericm979, can you link me to the specs on which solenoid valve to use? thank you
I'll probably just order the solenoid switch and sub plate.
 
   / Let's talk third function on the cheap... #7  
Northern has the valves for $120. Make sure you get the right spool style, I think there might be an error in the catalog so call and ask. I don't know if there's a difference in quality between these and the $150 ones.

The 3pt is always the last valve in the chain. The valves are chained together serially, i.e. Pump -> loader -> 3rd function -> remotes -> 3pt -> tank. The flow goes through each valve and on to the next. Some valves have PB, others do not. If you raise something heavy on the 3pt that requires all it's strength, the pump will be pumping at full pressure through all the valves. So each valve's output to the next valve in the chain has to be able to handle 2200 psi or whatever is it that your tractor puts out (usually determined by the relief on the loader valve though there may be other reliefs in the system). If that output is through a PB port, you're good, it's designed for that. If there is no PB port then the output is through the tank port (really it's a combined PB/tank port). So you need that port to be able to handle full pressure. The pressure it can handle should be listed in the data sheet for the valve. The solenoid valves don't come with PB, they all have just an in and out (tank) and work ports.

There's a relatively inexpensive loader joystick handle from Deere that has switches in it which many people have been happy with. There's some threads about home brew 3rd function where they've been used.
 
   / Let's talk third function on the cheap... #10  
I'VE PULLED A FEW WRENCHES IN MY TIME, BUT NOT MUCH ON HYDRAULICS. I'M RETIRED AN D HAVE ALL DAY TO GET THINGS DONE --OR NOT. SO WHY CAN'T I JUST RUN A LONG LINE FROM MY GRAPPLE---WHICH I DON'T HAVE YET--TO A REAR REMOTE AND USE THT VALVE. I ALSO DON'T HAVE REAR REMOTES YET. THAT WILL BE MY PROJECT NEXT WINTER. MY 1946 JD CAME WITH REAR REMOTE, MY KIOTI DIDN'T.
 
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