Level type recomendations?

[CDN Farm Boy]

I've tried water levels and unless you have all day to wait for them to settle, the garden hose is better left in the garden. In my opinion, they aren't worth the price even if they are free.

Bruce has the starting of the most simple option. Rather than trying to level at the top of the posts, work elbow high from the ground. All you need is a reference point on each post. Put a single nail one post at comfortable working height. Rest 1 end of the STRAIGHT 2x4 on this nail. Go to the other post, lift up the 2x4 with your level sitting on top of it and mark the bottom. This mark and the nail are now level with each other. Measure up the short post from the nail and transfer this to the other post and cut. You only need to ladder one post doing it this way.

The advantage of this is that you have an easy to find reference mark if you want to hinge gates.

 

[newbury]

2) 50-100' of clear vinyl tube & make my own water level. Cost under $20 (fittings to put a some clear tube on garden hose would be as much as 50' of tube & I'm looking for a more reusable solution than taping tube to hose)

That is my preferred method.

Water level is the most accurate.
I use one all the time. 5/16 tubing with RV antifreeze so you can see the liquid.
Go post to post on the ground, get a level mark on both posts, measure up from there.

I use food coloring, aquarium air tubing, a plastic milk jug of water. This way if I spill it is safe for pets.

Water level, dead accurate, will last a lifetime and will almost certainly be used again.

I don't know about a lifetime. I've only had it for 40 years.

I've tried water levels and unless you have all day to wait for them to settle, the garden hose is better left in the garden. In my opinion, they aren't worth the price even if they are free.<Snip>

Garden hose is too large and it does slosh around, clear aquarium tubing seems ideal.

I used to train soldiers on low level survey techniques. Lasers are ok if you have good visibility and great for long distance but as mentioned the tubing works around corners, is extremely cheap. Only problem is sub freezing temps.

 

[bcp]

I've tried water levels and unless you have all day to wait for them to settle, the garden hose is better left in the garden. In my opinion, they aren't worth the price even if they are free.

Bruce has the starting of the most simple option. Rather than trying to level at the top of the posts, work elbow high from the ground. All you need is a reference point on each post. Put a single nail one post at comfortable working height. Rest 1 end of the STRAIGHT 2x4 on this nail. Go to the other post, lift up the 2x4 with your level sitting on top of it and mark the bottom. This mark and the nail are now level with each other. Measure up the short post from the nail and transfer this to the other post and cut. You only need to ladder one post doing it this way.

The advantage of this is that you have an easy to find reference mark if you want to hinge gates.

I like the board on the top temporarily if there is going to be a beam there eventually. You can tack the 2x4 in place to get an idea how it will look, ant test for height. I've seen too many gates on half acre "ranches" that were about 9-10 feet vertical clearance.

Bruce

 

[/pine]

FWIW...because of surface tension (and to some degree viscosity and uneven temperatures) water tube levels CAN give inaccurate results...they are not 100% foolproof...

 

[oosik]

For that post project pictured - make it simple - use a string level.

 

[/pine]

... Put a single nail one post at comfortable working height...

:thumbsup:

I've built a couple dozen beach houses and condos on driven wooden pilings...we would always set a control line/mark on each of the pilings at a comfortable working level...we'd then use a grade stick tacked to the piling and cut the tops to grade from a scaffold...

 

[Fallon]

I'm 39, so a good number of years to go. I have a string level somewhere, but as windy as it's been lately & that high up in pretty sure string won't stay straight or level.

My only problem with setting a level mark on both poles down low & measuring up is a tape measure won't stay stiff going up that far, so it's a lot of ladder climbing to measure down from the top.

Leaning towards the water level unless somebody can convince me to spend the money on a laser. Would be nice to have the detector mounted on a box blade for future grading jobs.

The shorter of the 2 tall center poles should be 17' tall. Planning on hanging a sign under the crossbar, which should drop my clearance down to 15'. As freeways are 14' I should be good. Also the sign will be hanging so can swing up for an extra foot or so if hit. I was shooting for 17-18' wide, but it ended up 16' wide or so, which is plenty.

 

[/pine]

My only problem with setting a level mark on both poles down low & measuring up is a tape measure won't stay stiff going up that far, so it's a lot of ladder climbing to measure down from the top.

Measure from the top down...then just cut off what's not needed on top...

 

[Egon]

One of these should work.

 

[jenkinsph]

What kind of level would you guys recommend? I suppose not technically an attachment it's close enough


Immediate project: I just installed these utility poles for a ranch arch & need to trim the tallest one level with the tall one on the other side.
View attachment 501289


Anything I'm missing or other recomendations?

Are you using another pole for the cross piece? If so you will need to shape the tops of these poles for best appearance. I would recommend you attach the tops with a steel form stake pinning the cross member to the upright. I have used a ship auger to drill down and the 3/4" diameter auger and pins. About 24 inch long stakes should work.

Do you have a lift of some sort to get the top cross member in place? I built this simple man lift that sockets to my forks and has several heights to set aluminum scaffold boards. Just some ideas to get this project done.