Leveling Dirt

   / Leveling Dirt #21  
I usually stay pretty quiet on most subjects, but when it comes to arena dirt, espically barrel horse ground, I gotta throw some experienced opinion out there. First thing, shorten up your third link so you can get your teeth in a little deeper, and keep the actual blade from digging in. Second, try not to carry any dirt in the blade. Unless you have a laser leveled arena, you will always end up diggin in and making things worse if you have dirt in the box blade. Third, make your self some sort of drag to pull behing the box blade to smooth, level, and break up clods. Allmost anything will work here, just to smooth things out a little.
 
   / Leveling Dirt #22  
I usually stay pretty quiet on most subjects, but when it comes to arena dirt, espically barrel horse ground, I gotta throw some experienced opinion out there. First thing, shorten up your third link so you can get your teeth in a little deeper, and keep the actual blade from digging in. Second, try not to carry any dirt in the blade. Unless you have a laser leveled arena, you will always end up diggin in and making things worse if you have dirt in the box blade. Third, make your self some sort of drag to pull behing the box blade to smooth, level, and break up clods. Allmost anything will work here, just to smooth things out a little.
 
   / Leveling Dirt #23  
Sorry for the confusion on the "floating" comment. What I was referring to was adusting the draft links from the "rigid" position to the "float" position. I am not sure about all tractors but my JD has the ability to do this.
 
   / Leveling Dirt #24  
Sorry for the confusion on the "floating" comment. What I was referring to was adusting the draft links from the "rigid" position to the "float" position. I am not sure about all tractors but my JD has the ability to do this.
 
   / Leveling Dirt
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I tried the backing up idea last night with the lever in the float position. That seems to help quite a bit. I managed to get the hills down to a reasonable level after about an hour of backing around the arena. I guess I mainly just need more experience. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Terry
 
   / Leveling Dirt
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I tried the backing up idea last night with the lever in the float position. That seems to help quite a bit. I managed to get the hills down to a reasonable level after about an hour of backing around the arena. I guess I mainly just need more experience. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Terry
 
   / Leveling Dirt #27  
I was thinking gauge wheels would be a huge help for this type of fine grading but not having experience with them I didn't mention it.
 
   / Leveling Dirt #28  
I was thinking gauge wheels would be a huge help for this type of fine grading but not having experience with them I didn't mention it.
 
   / Leveling Dirt #29  
The 3pt on my B7510HST floats in the full down position. You can move the lower arms up and down with your hands. That's useful for attaching and detaching implements.

Sometimes it's useful to operate a box blade in the float position. As the name implies, the BB will more or less follow the ups and downs of the ground. Adjusting the tilt of the BB with the top link and the height of the rippers will determine how much bite you get from the BB.

Other times it's better to lower the BB until the tips of the rippers just touch the ground. The 3pt is NOT in the float position. Then, with the top link adjusted so the BB tilts forward, the forward motion of the tractor and the angle of the BB will cause the rippers to bite into the ground. Since the 3pt is not floating, there is a competition between the rippers trying to dig deeper and the 3pt arms trying to hold the BB at a constant height. The result, on fairly level ground, is that the BB digs in and stays at a pretty constant depth.
 
   / Leveling Dirt #30  
The 3pt on my B7510HST floats in the full down position. You can move the lower arms up and down with your hands. That's useful for attaching and detaching implements.

Sometimes it's useful to operate a box blade in the float position. As the name implies, the BB will more or less follow the ups and downs of the ground. Adjusting the tilt of the BB with the top link and the height of the rippers will determine how much bite you get from the BB.

Other times it's better to lower the BB until the tips of the rippers just touch the ground. The 3pt is NOT in the float position. Then, with the top link adjusted so the BB tilts forward, the forward motion of the tractor and the angle of the BB will cause the rippers to bite into the ground. Since the 3pt is not floating, there is a competition between the rippers trying to dig deeper and the 3pt arms trying to hold the BB at a constant height. The result, on fairly level ground, is that the BB digs in and stays at a pretty constant depth.
 

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