Leveling Dirt

[Highbeam]

I'm not buying this as a "float" feature. It is just the lack of down pressure that is present at all 3ph settings. You do realize that at all 3ph position settings but the very highest that you can grab and raise those arms, right? If you drop the 3ph position lever to full low, float as you call it, and the BB doesn't go to china then you either don't have the BB set up to dig or you need more weight on the BB.

There is a knob on my tractor and I believe most tractors that regulates how fast that the 3ph arms raise and fall to the deisred position. This valve can be shut off to lock the 3ph in position. Not sure what would happen if you locked it in position and then moved the 3ph position lever though.

 

[Highbeam]

I'm not buying this as a "float" feature. It is just the lack of down pressure that is present at all 3ph settings. You do realize that at all 3ph position settings but the very highest that you can grab and raise those arms, right? If you drop the 3ph position lever to full low, float as you call it, and the BB doesn't go to china then you either don't have the BB set up to dig or you need more weight on the BB.

There is a knob on my tractor and I believe most tractors that regulates how fast that the 3ph arms raise and fall to the deisred position. This valve can be shut off to lock the 3ph in position. Not sure what would happen if you locked it in position and then moved the 3ph position lever though.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( There is a knob on my tractor and I believe most tractors that regulates how fast that the 3ph arms raise and fall to the deisred position. )</font>
That valve only controls the drop speed, not the lift speed.
John

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( There is a knob on my tractor and I believe most tractors that regulates how fast that the 3ph arms raise and fall to the deisred position. )</font>
That valve only controls the drop speed, not the lift speed.
John

 

[dieselsmoke1]

Interesting...don't think I've ever seen a 3ph that would truly hold a fixed position against upward force. but then there's a lot of of things I ain't seen.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[dieselsmoke1]

Interesting...don't think I've ever seen a 3ph that would truly hold a fixed position against upward force. but then there's a lot of of things I ain't seen.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JerryG]

The only tractors that don't have float as a fixed function are Belarus and some older Internationals. As far as I know Belarus is the only current manufacture that has pressure up without float. That is in the compact and utility size tractors.

 

[JerryG]

The only tractors that don't have float as a fixed function are Belarus and some older Internationals. As far as I know Belarus is the only current manufacture that has pressure up without float. That is in the compact and utility size tractors.

 

[darkviper]

The secrete that you seek is back dragging. This can not be done with a box blade effectively. To properly back drag it would be best to use a rear blade that you can turn completely around so that you can drive foward instead of backwards. This will save you a lot of neck pain in the end. Also yop will want some loose dirt so that the holes will fill in. I have also had real good success with using a rake after i have roughed in. You can run that over afterwards as long as the holes are not greater then an inch deep and just run over it different directions until the grade is made. Laser level afterwards and you will be please with the results. I have leveled a place 100' X75' using this exact method to a grade within 1/4". Also bear in mind that you dont want it perfectly level. You will need a grade so that water will run off and not stand. If you need close to flat i would suggest a grade of 1/16" to 1/8" per foot for drainage meanind that every 8 ' will be a inch lower then ther first for 1/8" grade. Hope this helps/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[darkviper]

The secrete that you seek is back dragging. This can not be done with a box blade effectively. To properly back drag it would be best to use a rear blade that you can turn completely around so that you can drive foward instead of backwards. This will save you a lot of neck pain in the end. Also yop will want some loose dirt so that the holes will fill in. I have also had real good success with using a rake after i have roughed in. You can run that over afterwards as long as the holes are not greater then an inch deep and just run over it different directions until the grade is made. Laser level afterwards and you will be please with the results. I have leveled a place 100' X75' using this exact method to a grade within 1/4". Also bear in mind that you dont want it perfectly level. You will need a grade so that water will run off and not stand. If you need close to flat i would suggest a grade of 1/16" to 1/8" per foot for drainage meanind that every 8 ' will be a inch lower then ther first for 1/8" grade. Hope this helps/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif