Grading Leveling rear blade, How?

[75H2]

I feel like a moron for asking this. How do I level the rear blade? I have a little MF SCUT with a woods 60 inch RB. I'm trying to use it to clear our driveway. When I angle it to plow the snow to the side the leading edge really digs in. (As per this site's advice I've tried usng it backwards, it doesn't dig in, but I cant get much of an angle to push the snow to the side) It's visibly uneven, I tried adjusting the turnbuckle on the right side but it never quite worked.

Am I missing something really obvious.?

Be kind I have about 4 hours total in my life thus far using this type of equipment.

 

[WarrenF]

I feel like a moron for asking this. How do I level the rear blade? I have a little MF SCUT with a woods 60 inch RB. I'm trying to use it to clear our driveway. When I angle it to plow the snow to the side the leading edge really digs in. (As per this site's advice I've tried usng it backwards, it doesn't dig in, but I cant get much of an angle to push the snow to the side) It's visibly uneven, I tried adjusting the turnbuckle on the right side but it never quite worked.

Am I missing something really obvious.?

Be kind I have about 4 hours total in my life thus far using this type of equipment.

On one of your lower arms on the three point hitch.....don't you have and adjuster that you can turn to bring the blade to level? It is usually on the right lower arm.

 

[Champy]

See the attached picture for reference. On my JD990tractor, the right hand 3PH arm has an adjustment mechanism so you can raise or lower that side to level the implement. In the picture it is labeled as Item "G".

 

[RickB]

With the blade pinned straight (parallel with the tractor's rear axle) adjust the lift link(s) so the blade is level side to side. Now here's what you are missing; with the blade in the same position, adjust your top link so the blade's frame is level from the hitch A-frame back to the blade pivot pin. Ever so slightly higher at the A-frame (front) will actually let the leading edge of the angled blade (either direction) ride a little higher than the trailing edge.

 

[RobS]

Like RickB said, start with the top link. I rotate my blade 90 degrees so it's in line with the tractor centerline then lower it so it is just above a flat surface. Then work the top link so the blade is parallel to the surface. Basically, this makes the blade pivot straight up and down. Now rotate 90 degrees again and recheck. If it's still off it's now the side link adjustment.

Also, if you get really frustrated don't discount the possibility that the blade frame is bent in some manner.

 

[75H2]

Thanks for everyone's input. I hadn't thought about the top link. I have it all shortened up. I read on other posts that by doing this it lessesn the "bite" the blade has on the surface. So far this hasn't worked out so well. I've hit several soft spots & the blade dug in & stopped me in my tracks. I hadn't considered it's effect on the blade angle side to side I'll mess with the top link thsi wek. I think we are due for another storm in a few days

 

[troe]

add a set of gage wheels on the blade or lighten up on the draft control if you have that. my two cents worth.
have a great day
tomr

 

[IXLR8]

I feel like a moron for asking this. How do I level the rear blade? I have a little MF SCUT with a woods 60 inch RB. I'm trying to use it to clear our driveway. When I angle it to plow the snow to the side the leading edge really digs in.
Am I missing something really obvious.?
Be kind I have about 4 hours total in my life thus far using this type of equipment.

First, NO on the moron thing...
I spent 8 hrs fighting with the same issue with my RB, until I did the same thing that RickB recommend you do. Adjust, lengthen, the top link and you can level the blade and the leading edge won't dig in. On the other hand, if you lengthen the TL too much, the trailing edge will start to dig in first. DAMHIK

 

[newt92]

My blade sits pretty level but once in a while would dig in. I learned from someone else here on TBN to take the tilt pin out and run like that so the blade floats. I tried this and it helps big time! Why I never thought of this before, I dont know. For snow removable its great!

 

[75H2]

This why I love the internet & sites like this. I would have never thought of ideas like this. Thanks for all your input!

 

[MikeInEburg]

I had this exact trouble - no matter how you level the blade, it would dig in. And my blade is a non-tilt variety. So I replaced one of the lift arms on tractor with a section of heavy-duty chain, allowing the blade to float. It has done the trick for years now.
Mike

 

[Dargo]

For me, this is where a T&T really helps. For clearing snow (dang, I first typed "snot" - what am I thinking?!), I lay the top of the blade forward as much as possible to keep it from digging in. On paved or concrete, I use the tilt cylinder to keep the blade leveled with any angle I use. It seems I have to re-adjust after each change in the angle of the blade. If I'm clearing snow on a gravel drive I push the tilt cylinder to the float position as indicated by others, but keep the top cylinder sucked all the way in.

For putting a crown back in a gravel road, the tilt cylinder really helps as does the top cylinder to help me change the degree of attack while on the fly. Long ago I used to always scrape my gravel drives perfectly flat. That allowed them to hold water and get soft. Now I'll either crown them or tilt them to one side or another.

 

[daTeacha]

A basic adjustment method that hasn't been listed here: 1) Start with the blade just off the ground, side stabilizers set to center it. 2) Set your lift arms (level, ideally) so the pivot pin for your blade is perpendicular when viewed from behind the tractor 3) Adjust the top link so the pivot pin is perpendicular when viewed from the side.

If these steps are done right and your blade is straight, you should be able to turn the blade to any angle on a flat surface and have about the same clearance at all times in all parts of the blade. If you have it tilted toward the tractor in step 3, the leading edge will run lower than the trailing edge when you angle it, which you may want to do to move material to crown a drive or something.

Those of you with the fancier blades that have tilt and tip adjustments on the blade itself need to center the thing before you start, of course. For the rest of us po' folks, that isn't something we need to worry about.

 

[75H2]

My blade sits pretty level but once in a while would dig in. I learned from someone else here on TBN to take the tilt pin out and run like that so the blade floats. I tried this and it helps big time! Why I never thought of this before, I dont know. For snow removable its great!

Newt92. We got a big storm today. I used your advice & pulled the tilt pin. It worked like magic, thanks

 

[JoeL4330]

... If I'm clearing snow on a gravel drive I push the tilt cylinder to the float position as indicated by others, ...

Hmmm...I am not sure my tilt cylinder has a float position; will have to try and see. But pullin' the tilt pin is a winning suggestion.

 

[newt92]

Newt92. We got a big storm today. I used your advice & pulled the tilt pin. It worked like magic, thanks

I would like to take credit for that tip but I cant, learned it from someone else here on TBN. Does work slick!!