LGB Angled Grader !

   / LGB Angled Grader ! #11  
Mine took some playing with it to figure out the best way for it to grade in each scenerio. Just keep trying small changes and you will figure it out as to what works best. First time I used mine I thought it was digging for China!
Jenkinsph, if mine were any heavier my 70hp ag tractor wouldn't lift it. If you want heavier get out your welding shield. David from jax


sandman,
Here's mine on the new shop pad, used it to shave the high and low spots. Worked out well for this purpose, everything within the concrete is within 1/2" of grade. No hand shoveling yet.

This is about 950 lbs with 8' reversible blades. I built it two years ago for about $850.
 
   / LGB Angled Grader !
  • Thread Starter
#12  
WOW !!!!!!!!!! works even better in dirt !! had 5 loads of dirt today , looks great !! Pics next week , still at cabin and no computer to down load pics . I older friend saw how good it worked , so he GAVE me 5 loads for free !!! Now I have to go level with my land lever his lot , its all fresh loose dirt . He is going to go over with dozer , then I put the finish top on it . Not a bad trade !!! FREEE DIRT !! ( 5 loads !!) and I get to go play on his lot now !!!!!
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #13  
I have no idea what mine weighs in at, but a rough guess would be more more than twice what yours weighs. Take a look at the build pictures on my Davagrader and you will understand why it weighs so much. Since it was mostly built with stuff I acquired over the span of several years, instead of ordering a list of steel, I don稚 have that much in it. Blades from Dura-Grader werze $35 each, 4x12x1/2 angle$ 140, sides came from a table deal that netted five tables pure profit, square 4x4 tore out of the walls of a restaurant being changed to a law office, runners 3/4 x 2.5 was stripped from the donor trailer for the" Ugly dump trailer". Brackets from scrap lying around. Total less than $300 invested.
David from jax
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #14  
sandman,
Here's mine on the new shop pad, used it to shave the high and low spots. Worked out well for this purpose, everything within the concrete is within 1/2" of grade. No hand shoveling yet.

This is about 950 lbs with 8' reversible blades. I built it two years ago for about $850.

Are the blade's heights adjustable? I'm starting to get serious about building one. My thought was to make the blades fixed and the skids on the side adjustable.
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #15  
Are the blade's heights adjustable? I'm starting to get serious about building one. My thought was to make the blades fixed and the skids on the side adjustable.

While it may be of some use to have the blades at different heights related to the runners, most are fixed and seem to work just fine for those of us that have these graders. Point being that I don't know if it would be worth the trouble to make the blades adjustable.

Just my opinion ;)
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #16  
While it may be of some use to have the blades at different heights related to the runners, most are fixed and seem to work just fine for those of us that have these graders. Point being that I don't know if it would be worth the trouble to make the blades adjustable.

Just my opinion ;)

I was planning on copying the Land pride. The blades adjust from flush to 1 1/2" below the side rails.

My thought is to use either 3/8 or 1/2 plate on the sides to give it some weight and make the skids out of 3/8 x 2 1/2 flat stock. I would bend the ends up on the skids and had thought of welding them to something like 1/8" steel (think of a Tee shape) that would have slots cut in it so they could be bolted to the side plates. That way the skids could be replaced if they wore out and by raising the skids it would lower the blades (and vise versa). Not sure if I described that very well.

But since I haven't started yet I'm still open to new ideas.
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #17  
Mine are fixed flush with the replaceable wear strips. If the blades were set below the side skids I couldn't grade the pad correctly. The top link controls the amount of cut, in most cases the side skids tend to dig in slightly so the blades can always drop below the surface.

Using the vibratory roller packs the dirt very tight and allows the plane's skids to remain on top without digging in. In turn this allows the plane to remove and cut down the high spots and deposit the material in the low spots. If the blades were set below the skids then it would cut too much off.

My preference would be to have the blades flush, use topntilt to control the running angle and add a set of rippers if you need them.

I should mention that flat flanges on the skids hold the gravel and has to be cleaned off before you cross over other surfaces. If I were building mine again I would use box shapes that won't trap material.
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #18  
I have no idea what mine weighs in at, but a rough guess would be more more than twice what yours weighs. Take a look at the build pictures on my Davagrader and you will understand why it weighs so much. Since it was mostly built with stuff I acquired over the span of several years, instead of ordering a list of steel, I don稚 have that much in it. Blades from Dura-Grader werze $35 each, 4x12x1/2 angle$ 140, sides came from a table deal that netted five tables pure profit, square 4x4 tore out of the walls of a restaurant being changed to a law office, runners 3/4 x 2.5 was stripped from the donor trailer for the" Ugly dump trailer". Brackets from scrap lying around. Total less than $300 invested.
David from jax


Most of us that weld have a scrap pile of drops, Some of the steel in my build came from my pile. For the benefit of other members I calculated the materials needed and came up with $850. The blades were the expensive cost for me and are 6"x96"x5/8" double edged bolt on, about $200 each.
 
   / LGB Angled Grader ! #19  
Most of us that weld have a scrap pile of drops, Some of the steel in my build came from my pile. For the benefit of other members I calculated the materials needed and came up with $850. The blades were the expensive cost for me and are 6"x96"x5/8" double edged bolt on, about $200 each.


I agree that keeping a large scrap pile of drops, and maybe even a steel rack full of pieces and full lengths can be a huge help when building some of these projects that we build, especially if we can get them at reduced prices!. Most of my projects are built from my scrap piles, or from things that I accumulate, for their value from what they are made of. Take for instance the sides of my Dava-Grader, they are 5/8 plate which is overkill, but they started life as a machine table that had two pieces of plate on it, as a subfloor. I was picking up half a dozen tables as a deal to ship one north in exchange for the whole lot. Most of the tables had 1" table tops on them, but one hit the truck with two thinner pieces, which ended up on the Dava Grader. The owner actually told me he was going to scrap that one since it didn't have a top and I told him to just throw it on the truck with the rest. Being a truck driver comes in handy every now and then...
My steel supplier has a minimum purchase requirement so I often have to purchase extra materials to satisfy this and usually figure this in when buying materials for a paying job. The extra materials try to be for a project for me, so I don't have to make my profit quite so much, keeping me inline with other options the buyer has.
Anyway, back to the grader questions...
My blades are not adjustable, and therefore don't have the benefit of knowing just how much fun having adjustable blades are, but I do know that building them and making them EASILY ADJUSTABLE and not a pain from sitting outside, getting dirt dragged over them all the time and just the time to get them right every time you have a minute for seat time, can't be easy. Since the depth of the blade's cut is determined by the horizontal angle of the whole unit, I can easily change my blade cutting depth by simply changing the level of the whole unit as it is pulled. Tilt is forward or backwards just a very little and it changes the blade's cutting depth, because the rear or front skid then becomes the pivot point.
As far as adjustable or replaceable skids, or going thru the trouble of making replaceable skids, why? Most of us that are capable of building one of these things can easily flip it over on it's back and run a series of welds down the worn skid, a lot easier than removing a removable skid that all the bolts have to be cut out because the heads are worn half off.
A little about blades:
Before you purchase new blades, consider the dual edge blades. I knew I would probably never wear out one side of my new blades, but wanted the option of having a replacement by just flipping the blade over. Something as simple as that I managed to screw up, lol. My blade bolts on, but the blade isn't symetrical in relation to the bolt holes, so although I did manage to get two edged blades, I can only use one side without having to completely redrill the mounting angle for the new bolt pattern when I need to flip them. My blades have Cat's name on them, but this could show up on anybodys blades. Watch for it.
David from jax
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Cat 305.5E CR Excavator (A52384)
Cat 305.5E CR...
Adams 5 ton Fertilizer Buggy / Wagon (A53472)
Adams 5 ton...
2011 GALYEAN 130BBL VAC TRAILER (A52472)
2011 GALYEAN...
2018 Rock Solid 8x28 Cargo Trailer - Generator & A/C, Work-Ready (A53472)
2018 Rock Solid...
2009 IC Corporation PB105 School Bus (A51692)
2009 IC...
(1) HD 24ft Free Standing Corral Panel (A51573)
(1) HD 24ft Free...
 
Top