Life Insurance

   / Life Insurance #11  
the whole life policy would earn 1.5 APR at best.
We thought that too and then looked at what the savings account was getting.
Plus insurance $$ (if I am not mistaken) is not taxed.
 
   / Life Insurance
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for all the info and thoughts!. from the Company's listed, I toured their web sites. We are also going to check with my wifes HR dept on what we have and when we can modify it if we choose.

I am leaning towards "term" after the points you guys have mentioned.
 
   / Life Insurance #13  
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   / Life Insurance #14  
Term. 40 really seems to be where the big jump in premiums is. Bear in mind that most companies will consider you to be 40 when you are still 39.
 
   / Life Insurance #15  
Term, until you have enough for your death benefit needs, then a little whole life early in life, like for a kid, isn't a bad idea. It takes a long, long time for "permanent" policies to pay out those rosie numbers, keep a whole life policy, particularly a mutual insurer's policy, for 30-40 years and it becomes a much better value. But if you can buy term and invest the difference, you will likely come out ahead. BUT....not if you need life insurance no matter how old you are, young or very old, in order to save the farm from the tax man upon the last spouse's death. There are all kinds of good financial planning reasons why whole life can be the ONLY solution for some people, because they simply can't have life insurance that runs out. And buying whole life later in life will make your eyes water. For many, it's pay now or pay later.

Try to compare 20 and 30 year term, which locks in guaranteed coverage and cost for that period of time. Smoker rates are almost double nonsmokers. You can get annually renewable term, which goes up in price each year based on your age, but the cost in your older years can be prohibitive. So buy lots of term insurance for as long as you can. If your line of work could easily disable you, buy disability waiver of premium also. And if you have kids, insure your wives too.

As others have mentioned, the quoted cost, the advertised special is pretty hard to qualify for, sometimes only ten percent of those applying can qualify. If your labs are all in range, which sure isn't the case for many of us, with or without medication, and you aren't more than about 30 pounds overweight, you should be able to qualify for what's called "cheap term", the bare bones most bang for the buck policies that about half a dozen market leaders beat each other up selling, at very competitive rates. Try to qualify for it, if you don't, you'll pay 20-100+% percent more. Sometimes the testing done for life insurance opens up a can of worms, sometimes alerting the person they have a real problem and better tend to it. MUCH better to get a physical, and recent labs, and really know what your health is ahead of time, before all your medical records are put online for all companies to see, which they will be when you apply to most companies, even if they don't write a policy for you. If you are high risk, ok, look for the best deal in the high risk category. There are lots of good companies competing for your business. But you have to find them, and a good independent agent who works for you, or a fee based financial advisor who is paid only to make sure the advice you get is good, and relevant, will find the company that wants your business. Too often the agent tries to jam an applicant down the wrong company's throat, and they find you indigestible, and quote a much higher premium than another company that actually wants your business. Mostly because they understand your risk better, or at least they hope they do. Term insurance is like hamburger, shop around, and make sure the company is A rated.

I'm a retired Certified Financial Planner. Now happily digging in the dirt. Hope this generic info helps a few people. Drew
 
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   / Life Insurance #16  
I got a whole life policy for my son.

When each of our daughters was born, 46 and 43 years ago, I bought a term life insurance policy on them just enough to be burial insurance I guess through Globe Life Insurance Company in Oklahoma City. It was very cheap, but I don't remember just how cheap. However, when they reached a certain age (21? maybe) the premiums went up but so did the insurance coverage and it started building cash value. So I have $6,000 in insurance on each of them and I pay premiums of $75 a year for each; just make one $150 payment each year. And while it may not be a great APR increase, it is now more each year than the cost of the premium.
 
   / Life Insurance #18  
Life insurance, in general, does carry certain tax advantages that can make the inputed return compelling. Most whole life policies will earn between 3% - 4% over the very long term. Plus, the death benefit received tax free.
 
   / Life Insurance #19  
All of the impartial advice I've ever seen says to buy term life only, and then only for the death benefit amount needed to take care of loved ones. It's not an investment.

Other forms of life insurance ('Whole life', etc.) are very poor investments and there are better choices available for investing dollars.

Not necessarily any more. I know of whole life policies earning 4-6% guaranteed return while CDs earned 1% and the stock market was in the tank. Term life premiums can go up and they do. Then they peter out.
 
   / Life Insurance #20  
How do I collect both the death benefit and the cash value ?
The policy is normally designed so you can't, whole life that is, particularly older policies. However...if you are terminally ill, you can often access the death benefit on your proverbial death's door. Not exactly the answer you wanted I'm sure. You either get to surrender part or all of your policy and get your cash value back, and lose some or all death benefits, or you keep all or part of it until you die, whenever that is.

Alternatively, most cash value policies allow you to borrow a pretty high percentage of the cash value, but the clock is running at 5-6% interest, which is sure no bargain.

If you have a universal life or some hybrid form of policy, there could be a myriad of withdrawal options available. The easy answer here to your question is to say you can't. But you need to talk to the agent or the company's customer service dept. Those departments are usually staffed with pretty bright people, btw. Boy am I glad I'm retired. Three years back it would have taken me 20 pages to say the above, and little of it in plain language. Question Authority on your policy. There may be benefits available to you you simply don't understand. And even some that may have been added automatically to your policy when the insuring company did so for all their similar policies. So maybe the upgraded language applies now. Ask your agent what your withdrawal options are, and in what circumstances. You should get a full rundown.

All of this I say generically, I am very, very happily retired. Hope this helps.
 

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