Lift Arm stabilizers

[Chain Bender]

I own a 2010 B3200 HST. The lift arm stabilizers are turn buckles. I absolutely hate them. They are galvanized so the threads are very rough on them and when you have an implement mounted they are very hard to get to, to loosen or tighten. The right one on my new tractor seems to be frozen up already. There is no flat spot on either end of the turn buckkle where you can apply a wrench to put more than hand tension on it.

My neighbor had a medium sized Kubota several years ago that had what appeared to be a 2x2 box sliding over a 1.5 X1.5 box with pin holes that matched each. That was simple and very easily adjustable.

Does Kubota still make these and if so where can I pick up a pair and any idea of the cost?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Chain Bender

 

[greg_g]

Every three point hitch on every tractor I've owned - admittedly none of them Kubotas - had grease zerks or equivalent to keep the vertical link threads lubricated. A few had horizontal (side) links that didn't have zerks, but those I just greased manually. Simple matter of unscrewing the threads completely, greasing both the threads and threaded parts, reassemble, wipe off the excess.

As far as rough edges on the threads, they smooth easily with a stiff wire wheel. If you don't have one on your bench motor, get one that goes on an angle grinder.

//greg//

 

[Rustywreck]

I own a 2010 B3200 HST. The lift arm stabilizers are turn buckles. I absolutely hate them. They are galvanized so the threads are very rough on them and when you have an implement mounted they are very hard to get to, to loosen or tighten. The right one on my new tractor seems to be frozen up already. There is no flat spot on either end of the turn buckkle where you can apply a wrench to put more than hand tension on it.

My neighbor had a medium sized Kubota several years ago that had what appeared to be a 2x2 box sliding over a 1.5 X1.5 box with pin holes that matched each. That was simple and very easily adjustable.

Does Kubota still make these and if so where can I pick up a pair and any idea of the cost?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Chain Bender

I have the same frustration with turnbuckles - need a stout srewdriver to adjust them. My new holland has them. While at the dealer, I saw a different set up on a new tractor. I can't remember what I was told as far as the cost to switch, but it was enough that I didn't make the switch.
I set my turnbuckles so that the arms wouldn't hit the tires and left it at that. There is a little side-to-side movement, but I've found that to be useful at times. Occasionally I'll forget that I have the back blade on the tractor and it will catch a tree while driving forward. The side-to-side movement allows it to move around the tree without damage.

 

[aczlan]

Every three point hitch on every tractor I've owned - admittedly none of them Kubotas - had grease zerks or equivalent to keep the vertical link threads lubricated. A few had horizontal (side) links that didn't have zerks, but those I just greased manually. Simple matter of unscrewing the threads completely, greasing both the threads and threaded parts, reassemble, wipe off the excess.

As far as rough edges on the threads, they smooth easily with a stiff wire wheel. If you don't have one on your bench motor, get one that goes on an angle grinder.
//greg//

I think he is talking about the horizontal stabilizers (ie: to keep the arms from swinging from side to side) not the lift links.

Aaron Z

 

[art]

I have found that most three point attachments take about the same settings on the stabilizers.
So what we do when customers don't want to upgrade to the 3030 or new model 3000 stabilizers with the pin adjustment we change out the pins on the outboard side so they remove with a quick pin so they can be moved out of the way easily and then reattached quickly when the three point tools are exchanged.

 

[greg_g]

I think he is talking about the horizontal stabilizers (ie: to keep the arms from swinging from side to side) not the lift links.

Not this part: "My neighbor had a medium sized Kubota several years ago that had what appeared to be a 2x2 box sliding over a 1.5 X1.5 box with pin holes that matched each." Those are the dimensions of a CUT vertical link. Matter of fact, that pretty much describes the vertical links on my John Deere.

That said, I addressed the horizontal link possibility as well. Clean, smooth, grease the threads - and you can pretty much adjust the turnbuckles by hand (when they're not under tension from an implement).

//greg//

 

[aczlan]

Not this part: "My neighbor had a medium sized Kubota several years ago that had what appeared to be a 2x2 box sliding over a 1.5 X1.5 box with pin holes that matched each." Those are the dimensions of a CUT vertical link. Matter of fact, that pretty much describes the vertical links on my John Deere.
That said, I addressed the horizontal link possibility as well. Clean, smooth, grease the threads - and you can pretty much adjust the turnbuckles by hand (when they're not under tension from an implement).

That perfectly describes the stabilizers (horizontal links) on our Kubota L3830, but I have never seen or heard of the lift links being made like that. Any chance you have a picture of them?
See:

for an example of the type of stabilizers I am talking about on a B3030.
(Picture source: http://members.shaw.ca/B3030)
See pages 2 and 3 of: http://www.sparexusa.com/Catalogs/Compact/3point.pdf for the types of lift links and stabilizers I am familiar with

Aaron Z

 

[RoyJackson]

Not this part: "My neighbor had a medium sized Kubota several years ago that had what appeared to be a 2x2 box sliding over a 1.5 X1.5 box with pin holes that matched each." Those are the dimensions of a CUT vertical link. Matter of fact, that pretty much describes the vertical links on my John Deere.

That said, I addressed the horizontal link possibility as well. Clean, smooth, grease the threads - and you can pretty much adjust the turnbuckles by hand (when they're not under tension from an implement).

//greg//

Greg, my Deere 4400 has anti-sway links very similar to how the OP describes his neighbor's (the bolded font in the quote)...sliding sections that pin when holes line up. Can't say I've looked at the 3x20 series tractor's anti-sway links.

Chain Bender:
My old Deere 670 and 790 both had those turnbuckles to limit sway (which is what I think you mean by "stabilizor").
They are very difficult to adjust when the implement is on the ground. Try lifting the implement (with your rockshaft lever raising the 3PH). Then, you can easily move the implement side to side to adjust those turnbuckles. You're not going to eliminate all side to side sway...just reduce it as much as possible.
As far as the lift link turnbuckle (normally right side link only), there may be a grease (zerk) fitting. Doesn't hurt to spray the threads with Fluid Film (or equivalent) either. Spray the anti-sway turnbuckles with Fluid Film too.

 

[pat32rf]

At least on that orange 3030 you can see the holes to drop a pin thru. On my JD4300 the pins go in from the side. First you have to get your head down between the tire and the bar to see if they line up!!! Give me the turnbuckles off my old Bota any day..

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I now have a QH so do not have to mess with it much. I replaced the cotter pins with hairpins in the little clevisis, leave just enough slack small clevis pins drop out. I found that those little clevises on the ends of the turnbuckels are the weak point in the chain if they are left loose or get loose it the TBs aren't tight. Replaced 2 sets of 4 before I got the QH. Taking the QH off to install the BH now is a simple job, drop two clevisis and then keep it all together. BX 25.

Ron

 

[greg_g]

Can't say I've looked at the 3x20 series tractor's anti-sway links..

As I'm sure you know, I own one. The vertical links - or lift arm stabilizers - are 2x2 square tube (with handles) over a threaded center, right and left both adjust. They're greaseable. The horizontals (side or sway links) is a 1x1 square pin hole tube over a piece of 3/4 flat rod, also with pin holes. They are both adjustable as well, but don't require grease.

//greg//

 

[Chain Bender]

Stopped by the Kubota dealership this morning to see what they had and how much gold they wanted for it. A set like I described in the OP was $400.pair. I almost choked. I studied some pictures of some and off to the steel yard I went. Bought a 3' piece of 2x2x3/16, a 3' stick of 1.5x1.5x3/16. I already had some 2" X 3/8" flat bar laying around to I used it on the outside end of the 2x2.

I heated and formed a 1/2" loop on the end that shackles to the axle and am able to use the existing shackle. slid the smaller insied the biger and drillled 6 holes 1" apart through both tubes at the same time. Right now there are 6 1/2" holes, 1" apart CTC or adjustments. 5" of adjustment should be enough to get this thing tuned up. The steel prices have gone crazy. a 3' 2x2, 3' 1.5X1.5 and a 3' 3/8" X 2" flat bar was 56 dollars. I already had som old turnbuckles laying arondt.

Will post pictures tonorrow is I think about it!

CB

 

[mzamatt]

I've sold the pin styles from different models in the past. You should
be looking at 230-250 for both sides. I've also had customers have problems
with the threads pulling out. They would replace them with those mini
ratchet binders for a fraction of replacement parts price.

 

[Chain Bender]

I've sold the pin styles from different models in the past. You should
be looking at 230-250 for both sides. I've also had customers have problems
with the threads pulling out. They would replace them with those mini
ratchet binders for a fraction of replacement parts price.

XXXXXXXXXXXX

I don't have any threads in my new stabilizers. All welded and drop pins.

 

[clemsonfor]

I have threaded turnbuckles for my yanmar. They are $19.95 from Hoye tractor. One side has a d ring to connect to axle side and the other has a treaded bolt to go through the lift arm. Probly wrong size but for those of you with a CUT size tractor they may fit and they tread smoothly!

 

[Chilly807]

The only real disadvantage to the pin type stabilizer is the lack of fine adjustment, and of course the cost. I'd like to build a hybrid type with both the turnbuckle and the pins.

Sean

 

[jimgerken]

for those of using quick hitches, DO we really need stabilizers on BOTH sides? Mine seems to work well with just one stabilizer.

 

[bikerdib]

I wouldn't go with just one side. The stabilizers are made to be pulled against not pushed against. A hard push from the side and the one stabilizer could bend allowing the implement to swing suddenly.

Like others have already said, the quick hitch takes care of adjusting the turnbuckles.

 

[Oldstuff]

I agree with bikerdib- I found this out first handed. The very first time I put on one sway bar I bent it. I always use 2 of them now.

Oldstuff

 

[newbury]

Check this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/49403-b7610-3pt-stabalizer-replacement.html