Lift more weight.

[NueDemShlak]

I thought about using one (hydraulic top link) it'll be a lot nicer. I don't want to lift crazy heavy stuff, but the stuff I do lift is just a tad bit too heavy for the 3ph to pick up and the front wheels don't lift off the ground or nothing. I still like the idea oh having a forklift attached to the rear and put two wheels on it to support the weight and the tractor basically drag it around like a trailer. I read stuff about what you guys saying "you need large cylinders" or "you'll have pump issues" ect ect. I don't see an issue, no offence. Mount a pump on the front, run lines to the case, or just run a 5 gallon tank or whatever and get it all hooked up bla bla bla. Anyways, you don't need very big cylinders. We got a road tractor at work, I think it's a case, I haven't worked on it for a very long time. For every thing, I mean every thing, from the 3 ph, to the grader plow under the tractor, to the bucket up front, they're not that big. It can do all kind of damage with those little things lol. To be honest, I'm not going to do all this crap, unless I find stuff to make it. I was just wondering if there was an easy way to get more out of the tractor. I believe it has a lot more oomph to give. Anyways I enjoyed reading your comment! Just curious, is it normal for the 3ph to be jumpy when it has weight on it? Mine does that. Sometimes it's fine, other times it's worst. Just curious.

 

[Opti-Mist]

A jumpy 3-pt suggests some leakage of the lift cylinder seal.

 

[metalcaster]

If the 8N is similar to the 9N in pump and cylinder configurations I would suggest that you rebuild the internal hydraulic pump and hone and replace the rings on the cylinder. I kind of remember there being a spring on the operation valve that may have an influence on the pressure relief? All of this was contained within the rear axle housing.
As for adding a hydraulic top link there really isn't a good option to get hydraulic pressure. I've seen some run a pipe from a plug in the housing, but I don't think that there is much flow.
Tractors have come a long way since the 50's and for good reason.

 

[J_J]

NueDemShlak

Could you add two cyl to the lift arms, and use a one spool valve with float, and an engine driven pump. pump to supply your hyd?

I believe there are several tractors that have external cyl for the 3pt.

 

[farm boy00]

NueDemShlak

Could you add two cyl to the lift arms, and use a one spool valve with float, and an engine driven pump. pump to supply your hyd?

I believe there are several tractors that have external cyl for the 3pt.

Your tractors you are talking about is Allis Chalmers farmall McCormick and i think others.

I could post pics of mine but i don't know why TBN app won't let me

 

[MHarryE]

I believe the lift quoted in tractor data us at the pins so in back of the pins it will reduce quickly. I have a plow intended for an 8N and it is nicely designed to reduce weight. Also a nearly 70 year old tractor is going to be down on hydraulic power vs. brand new unless components have been replaced.

 

[NueDemShlak]

It lifts more than I thought. Now that it's drying up, we can bale now, and It'll lift 4x4 bales, I think they weigh 800ish. That was something I was worried abut, that it could't do that. But yeah someday, I'll rebuild the 3 point. Actually, the lift arms are stamped 8N, even though it's a 9N lol.

 

[LD1]

It's extremely rare to find an old N that is all original. The 9n thru 8n models ran for 13 years and shared many many parts. That plus hundreds of thousands made mean most tractors have parts from many

 

[MossRoad]

Is it an 8N or a 9N? Your first post says 8N and your last says 9N. Just curious.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Years ago I had the chance to run an old ford ??? The owner said it was from the 40's. It had a home made loader on it that was tapped into the 3pt. To run the loader there was 2 valves a stop (maybe gate) valve between your feet almost under the seat, about where the drop speed is on modern tractors. This valve needed to be closed if you were going to lift or to keep the bucket raised, opening it would lower the bucket / let fluid out of the single action lift cylinders. The other valve was a ball valve located between the seat and the fender below the seat height. Opening this valve would send fluid to the lift cylinders as long as the stop valve was closed. The bucket had only a mechanical lever to dump then lowering the arms to the ground would reset the bucket. It was a very chalenging system to work while shifting clutching and no power steering, not to mention the breaks really only would slow you down if you were driving up hill or into the manure pile.