Lifting Forks

[Tinmann]

What are your opinions on a person buying a set of forks similiar to the one's on a fork lift. I will be building a house and will be mostly on my own. Can one utilize a 3710 equipped with them to justify the purchase? I feel I can, but don't want to throw my money away since it is too hard to come by. Please give me your opinions. Thanks!

 

[Bird]

Tinmann, are you talking about fork lift forks to use on the 3-point or on a front end loader? Regular fork lift forks are pretty expensive, but if you'll check with you local dealers, sometimes you can pick up a pair of used ones like I got, and with a little welding, make your own brackets and mounting method. I don't use them very often, but they sure are handy sometimes.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Tinman, I have a set of forks that replace the bucket on my LA481 loader. I use them constantly and would highly recommend them. They cost about $700.00 and I think they are worth every penny.

 

[W5FL]

Yes, they are very handy. I have a place in my barn for a set as soon as I can afford them. They are kinda expensive. For my tractor, they are about $1200. The bucket has to have a quick release attachment installed one time and it is about $250. I also saw a pretty good set made with a few pounds of heavy steel channel and a welder. Not as good as the high temper ones, but it would lift 1500# feed pallets with no trouble and cost $70. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[TomG]

I have 3ph pallet forks with a hydraulic top link for carriage tilt. They are expensive, but only a little more than decent loader forks. I went with the 3ph forks because I'm using the tractor for material handling while we demolish and rebuild. I think the 3ph forks are a little better at material handling than loader forks, and I can also use the loader at the same time.

I think I've mentioned some of the advantages of 3ph forks awhile back. Generally, they lift in a true vertical, while loader forks lift in an arc. With loader forks, you have to pull a stack that is against a wall back before it can be lifted. If you forget, you break the wall or upset the stack. The vertical lift also keeps the load at the same angle while lifting. I don't think loaders, even with self-leveling, are good enough to keep the load at the same angle, and curl adjustments may be needed during a lift to the a stack from tipping.

The vertical lift and perpendicular forks make picking pallets off truck beds easy, and you don't have to worry about smashing your radiator. I haven't used loader forks, but I suspect picking things off truck beds is less easy because the angles distances of things change during the lift.

3ph forks also have a true backrest. Loads can be tilted against the rest for more stability. With a backrest, there's always a steel frame between the load and me. There are two frames that telescope out with the lift. Even if I lift the max 6.5', there's still 5' of frame above the load. Lift a tall stack high with loader forks and there's nothing much between the load and the front of the tractor.

On the negative side, 3ph forks are not easy to get on and off. Mine weighs 600# and folds flat when off the tractor. The frame, too heavy for me, has to be raised vertical to connect the top link. I do it with a come-along. In addition, the weight of the forks plus any load is carried behind the 3ph arms. That much weight behind the 3ph arms substantially reduces the 3ph lift capacity--even with a loader bucket of gravel. I still think I can lift heavier loads safely with 3ph forks than I could with loader forks, but the safe load is not as much as I first thought.

I don't suppose that 3ph forks are for everybody, but I'm happy they're what I got. Today is one of those days where I'm going to use the forks and loader alternately. I'm happy I won't be changing things throughout the day.

 

[M. Sullivan]

Related question. Remember seeing instructions on building a 'bucket extender' for increased carrying area. Any help appreciated. Finding my loader is the best darn wheel barrow I've ever had, just want to make it bigger!

 

[W5FL]

Most dealers sell clamp on forks. They do a pretty good job of extending the bucket for LIGHT loads. You can buy a welder for $100 and make anything you need to add to either the bucket or the loader attachments. If you have lots of money the 4 way bucket solves a lot of problems in one attachment.

 

[W5FL]

Tinmann, I built my house too. The tractor was a lot of use during and after construction. Some of the lumber loads are pretty heavy, but they will dump them and hopefully you will not have to move them. I used a lot of finish lumber and had to move a couple of loads to the barn for storage. They were pretty heavy, weighing close to 1500 pounds. Forks would have been wonderful, but had to use lifting straps and move them with the loader. Now if I had built the front door a little wider where I could have got the tractor inside the house... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

Wen, that's exactly what I did. My brother traded for a set of genuine 4' fork lift forks, and with some pieces of pipe, plate steel, and my little "cracker box" welder, we made the brackets, mounts, etc. where the forks can be mounted on the front of the bucket and slid in or out to whatever width is appropriate at the time.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

M. Sulivan... Is this what you are thinking of? I plan on adding loader rakes to both my tractors just as soon as I stop playing with them for a minute! I put a picture up so you can see them if you wish. I'll probably take this pic down in a week or so. Any late lookers are welcome to email me for the pic if I do.

http://www.oldcarparts.mygarage.com/images/loader_rake.jpg
del
[email]oldcarparts@mygarage.com [/email]

http://www.oldcarparts.mygarage.com/images/loader_rake.jpg

 

[M. Sullivan]

Yes! Thank you. Are these commercially available, or did you make them??

 

[Anonymous Poster]

There are different types of rear forks, I had a simple setup which was just tall arch real some heavy duty forks at the bottom for my previous tractor's 3pt. It lifted up in the same arc as any implement, that was about $200.00. You can go all the way to a true 5 foot or more chain lift or hydraulic lift that goes vertically and the whole contraption and be tilted forward or back.

The tilting of the loader forks aren't much of a concern, you do have to correct the curl sometimes but it's not much unless you are lifting up high. If you are planning on lifting a big load up high, especially around a new house site, make your offload spot nice and flat with the loader first as if it's not... You still have to be real careful as you offload as a heavy load at max height really gets the adrenalin going. And although I enjoy argueing (conversing?..bantering?) with Mark about the HST GST merits, there's no place you want the HST more than with a heavy pallet all the way in the air. (Mark can I put 2.5 cylinders on my BX? <grin>)

(not trying to sound "know-it-all" I for sure don't, just throwing out the old 2 cents, over and over and over and.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
The front loader setups I've seen three ways, a full "real forklift" setup. Extremely expensive, super high quality and not designed for on-off. #2 What my previous tractor had was a set up where you'd remove the bucket and put on a fork and backsupport on the loader arms. My loader was a pain to take one and off even with just pins, getting it lined up just right, finding a place to leave it etc.

My current L35 uses what I think is the best for on and off use. Permanent brackets are welded to top of bucket to support the cross shaft and forks, which come on by driving the tractor under them and off by throwing some levers and tilting bucket forward and driving back.

These are rated for 2500 lbs, my loader only lifts 1650 or less to height probably 2300 at ground level maybe. I posted a picture.

Anything's better than strapping the load to the bucket, which is what I was doing when I didn't feel like wrestling my old forks!

http://www.oldcarparts.mygarage.com/images/Forks.jpg

I'll probably pull this picture down in a week or so, late lookers are welcome to email and I can send the pic to you.

del
[email]oldcarparts@mygarage.com [/email]

 

[gordon]

Del what color is that tractor it looks yellow? Did the bucket come like that or did you have to weld the mounts on for the forks? Thanks for the pic
Gordon

 

[Anonymous Poster]

That's not my tractor it's a pic from the web but it looks like mine. No, when you order the forks they come with the brackets that have to be welded to the bucket. That one's a bigger tractor maybe a Case or JCB?

Speaking of pics, I'm surprised that all of the various manufacturers get together (or at least someone with time) doesn't set up a site with pics of all the different things you can get for your tractor and different companies that supply the various items. The dealers all have catalogs from various companies listing part numbers, applications etc, but a simple booklet (or website) with a general list w/pics would help a lot of people make some purchases, but what do I know, I'm just a guy in a checkered coat.

 

[TomG]

Yes, I think HST would be very good for pallet fork work. I've got gears. It was the right used tractor for me when I needed one. The gears don't give me too much aggravation, and I've got a little more power than I would with HST. However, the clutch grabbing with a load up high isn't a good feeling, and I have to be real careful.

 

[MChalkley]

I have a set of Long forks with the weld-on brackets that hold the shaft with the forks on it. I haven't had a chance to weld the brackets on yet, though, so I can't comment on them, other than to say that they're going to reduce my net lifting capacity by a couple hundred pounds.

I found another place where the HST sure made life a lot easier the other day. We had to trim some trees up high, so a friend of mine offered to stand in the bucket with the chain saw. I told him no way, but if he wanted to do it sitting down in the bucket, we'd try it. He agreed and we spent the next several hours working that way. I'm not sure that I would've done it without HST. As it turned out, I raised the bucket to almost full height and didn't move it up or down more than a couple feet the whole time, except when he needed to refuel the saw. He said he very comfortable and confident the entire time. (Other than being a little too trusting, he's a great guy. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif)

Mark

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I wouldn't be concerned about it either as I'm comfortable with a clutch, but on rough ground around a house site I would think that .00001 mph HST would be nice. As I've mentioned before, I park my BX in a spot in the garage that is about an inch longer and wider than the tractor loader implement. (well almost)

Goes in an out without delay. Of course I'm also able to do that because both tires are totally visible and about 2 feet from my eyes!

I can't think of anything I've hit and damaged with my Ford NH because of the clutch in 17 years. (Probably selective memory!)

I have this feeling that if I hit something with the L35 I'm also going to "forget" it because whatever I hit will not be there anymore to remind me!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

REAL MEN DON'T DO THAT...

They put a step ladder in the bucket, go up it and then have someone raise the bucket!

I think there's a number of reasons why they say not to put people in the bucket, main one being the people lifters can't drop even with a hydraulic hose being cut, they have to be powered down. I've never had my bucket come down for any reason even with a load. The other is probably that the person isn't in a nice flat container with a railing. You've got to have good balance sense to not fall just standing in the thing. Then there are those nice sharp edges to hit.

I'd love to have a nice metal and ABS people platform to put on a tractor, I'm sure no company would risk that liability!

When my last building was built I saw the electrician standing on the top step of his ladder reaching way up to do the light work. I about passed out (safety nut that I am). Or is that wuss?

Anyway, went out and bought a 12 foot step ladder, legs spread out to about 40 feet wide I think (or so it seems whenever I'm trying to put it somewhere). Have been using that for the trees. Have always wanted to get one of those extended pruning sticks. Santa...?

 

[Bird]

Mark, I think you're smart to not allow anyone standing up in the bucket, but I've picked up one neighbor that way for him to cut a limb off a pecan tree with a chain saw, and I've picked up my brother several times that way, both for him to cut limbs off trees and when we were building his house. I certainly don't recommend it, and they both know I'm not the one who's going to be standing in the bucket while someone else pokes me up in a tree, but I guess they've got a better sense of balance and more nerve than I have, and they insisted, so I did it; slowly and carefully.

Bird

 

[TomG]

Of course, the pamphlets that come with chain saws say 'don't take them up a ladder.' Don't know whether ladder or bucket would be more dangerous. I took a chainsaw up a stepladder. The ladder slipped and down I came. Somehow during the fall I got the engine into my stomach and the bar perpendicular to my body. Fell on the engine, but not too hard. Got up with the saw still running. Don't know how I managed to avoid killing myself. If I have to take off a limb now, I use an extension ladder and tie the top to a big limb. Not the one I'm cutting (see bone head stunts).