Light Fixture Question (adding one)

[hube2]

the switch to GFCI requirements for disposal and dishwashers came after I retired from electrical trades. I’m actually glad I retired. Regulations have killed the trade.

My BIL was telling me that his BIL building an addition for someone and now the requirement here is that everything in the house needs to be on a GFI breaker, at least for new construction and getting it inspected. I'm also glad I don't do this kind of work for others any more. However, you don't need to get new stuff inspected around here if you add something. The reason he had an issue was that he needed to replace the main panel in the house so when doing that inspection is required before the power company will turn you back on.

 

[grsthegreat]

Well, every residential circuit that is not required to be gfci needs to be ark fault protected. Idaho , where I live, has not adopted that absolutely stupid requirement. Washington State did. There is nothing stating every circuit needs to be gfci.
when replacing a main panel, the house wiring does not have to be brought up to code, only new additions to house need to be.
but, your state may be different.

 

[MossRoad]

Forget it, I forgot about the 3rd wire for return in a 3-way.

I'd go the remote route over putting two feeds into 1 fixture.

 

[kcflhrc]

One no no I saw posted was to share a common return with 2 circuits, don't do that.

 

[MossRoad]

I got bit at one of my employer's facilities changing ballasts. I'd killed power to the circuit in a 2 bulb fixture. Unbeknownst to me, there were two ballasts in the fixture. 1 was on the breaker that I killed, the other was on a different circuit that is tied into emergency lighting, so if power dies the generator powers 1 bulb in that fixture. Plus a photo cell and relay was involved.

Anyhow, I put my voltage sensor into the socket after I killed the breaker and it was dead. Yay! Then I unwired the wire nuts that I thought were coming to the ballast. On the other side of the plate that the ballast was mounted to was another ballast with a relay and I couldn't see them working with my hands through the fixture. ZAP!

 

[5030]

Probably should have said outlast conventional bulbs instead. Lifespan does depend on the SMD device. I try to only buy CREE SMD's

 

[hube2]

One no no I saw posted was to share a common return with 2 circuits, don't do that.

It's not a common return with 2 circuits, it is a common return with a split circuit. This uses a double pole breaker with 3 wires (black/red/white) where black and red are used to supply power to separate things, like the two sides of an outlet. This could also be done with 2 lights or one light and one outlet. For residential installations you do not run 2 separate breakers for one box. With a double pole breaker you ensure that all power to the box is off by switching off the dual pole breaker.

Here is an explanation of how to split an outlet in this manner How to Wire a Split Outlet

 

[grsthegreat]

Probably should have said outlast conventional bulbs instead. Lifespan does depend on the SMD device. I try to only buy CREE SMD's

i have always used cree fixtures. i now have 2 burnt out lamps that were installed 2 years ago. lights are not used alot either. im not a big believer in leds.

 

[dlctcg]

As others have mentioned wireless switch solutions work well... & as grsthegreat mentioned the Lutron products work pretty flawlessly with just about any LED. Wireless will probably solve all your problems & be the cheapest... The only thing to keep in mind with the wireless is distance, you mentioned the switch in the kitchen is on the other side of the house. Lutron, I believe, still specs a 30ft radius (I have ones working twice that distance) but it does depend on location, interference, etc, so you may need a repeater. Just something to keep in mind, the better half may not like it, if it only works sometimes... lol

Another product you could look at is PulseWorx's (again priced higher like a Lutron) but their switches can be hardwired (no batteries) & no wireless. After they are installed the switches can then be programmed to control just about any of their other installed switches, programmed scenes or controlled loads. We use them a lot on retro-fit projects & for landscape / outdoor lighting control that go on an off based on sunrise & sunset (using an astronomic clock). They build a real quality switch (USA company - USA Assembled - 5yr warranty) and you install them as need for a project right next to any other decora switch... thinking "Aesthetics"

You could basically install two of their switches 1 in the existing kitchen location & 1 in a new electrical box in the garage & then program them to operate like a traditional 3-way switch but without the 3-way wiring...

Just an option to look at... this pic is one of their switches & a controller installed, you wouldn't need a controller just switches (oh, the LED on the switch can be defeated or change based on status)