light front end

[poorboy]

Finally got to spend some quality time on the tractor. Just tried out my mower today and found that when it's in the transport mode my front end is a little bouncy without my loader attached. Should I fill the fronts and see what happens or should I check into weights? How much can I expect to pay for weights and bracket? Can I leave the bracket on with the loader? Hoodguard? And how much trouble are they to put on and take off? If I fill the fronts how much stress can the tires take with the loader? I did'nt know that I had so many questions, I guess that came from the peice and quiet on that 5410 2-wd today. Thanks for any help?

Patrick

 

[scotd1]

Patrick,
I have a 5410 MFWD w/FEL and I filled my front tires. The tractor handles better and it lower my center of gravity (I have a lot of hills), really just settled everything down. I have filled the front of several tractors over the years and I have never had any problems with it. I had a JD 2150 2 wd before I got this one and it was light in front without the FEL. I used suitcase weights on it and they were kind of a pain to take off and put on as you didn't want that weight hanging on the chasis when working the FEL.

 

[radman]

Poorboy:
I have a JD 5300 MFWD and it can have both a weight bracket and weights as well as the loader on all at the same time. The bracket and weights sit below and between the arms of the grill guard. I assume this is still possible with the newer series. I dont have a weight bracket for my tractor but for my tractor it was a fairly large approx. 4"x4" peice of cast iron and I imagine not cheap. The suit case weights then set on the bracket. Call a dealer for prices of both. Putting fluid in the front tires of a 2-wd tractor will probably not add much significant weight. I assume the mower you mentioned is a rotary mower. I leave my loader on almost all the time when mowing. Without the loader on, my front end is also light when using my 6' bush hog. Other than the loader occassionally in the way for tight areas or on steep hill sides, why do you prefer it off? (I have caught a few fences with the loader - usually when backing up an not watching the front.) Unless your ground is rough, I would leave it on. If you dont want that much weight, just remove the quick attach bucket before you mow. With the bucket removed, the remaining weight of the loader is probably near that of a weight bracket and weights for holding down the front end. Putting weights on a off can be a chore on any tractor. My large IH tractor can lift 16,000 lbs on the rear. I have 20+ 100lb plates for the front - no need to go to a gym for a workout.

 

[poorboy]

Radman,
I wasn't too sure about my loader being on and not hooked up, since I need one remote to raise my mower. I hate to have to install a third remote right now since I just had to buy another tedder today to replace the one I had stolen while my grandmother passed away last week. But that is a whole other post entirely. I was glad to find out that I could leave the weights on if I decided to go that route. I still have a few days left to decide and I'm still open to any suggestions. Thanks guys for the info.!

 

[radman]

Poorboy:
I dont know for certain, but I wouldn't be surprised if the weight bracket and weights might cost more than a third control valve but I have not priced one. You might consider just disconnecting the hoses that tip the bucket and still be able to use that valve for your mower. You would need to get the pressure off the lines prior to reconnecting the bucket hoses. This could be done with lowering the loader to the ground to get the weight reduced or easier yet is to remove the bucket prior to disconnecting the hoses

 

[poorboy]

Thanks Rad for the Idea of switching the hydr. lines. The disc mower needed to have a valve with a float position so I switched the remote 1 to remote 2 and plugged in the mower to remote 1 I think this will hold me until I can justify the extra remote. Especially since I had to replace my rake also, I guess I'll just count it as another deduction. Thanks again Guys!

 

[patton]

Weights cost almost $1/lb. The dealer laughed at me when I asked about used weights- a coat of paint and they are as good as new. You can price weights on the JD website.

I wouldn't discount filling the tires. My 1050 will take 60-80 lbs of water/CaCl per tire, I would immaging a 5000 would more than double that. Post you tire size and I will look it up for you. I know the 1050 manual, and I think the 5000 series manual as well lists the weight from filling the tire. As far as overloading the tire/wheel/tractor, it's basically not an issue. That weight is not transfered to the wheel, and to the tire, it just replaces some of the air pressure.

Pat