Woody1
Bronze Member
J.D. 1995 755 4wd........ My lights keep shorting out. Have replaced the switch with a new one. Flasher will work all the time when switched to it. Fuse keeps blowing. (25 amp). Have tried to follow all wires where they go to and their paths and cannot find any fraying.
After i put the new switch in, they worked fine, now they are shorting again. At 45.00 for a switch, it will get a lil expensive to keep replacing it! I mounted some other back-up lights to the fenders and also some forward facing lights to the underside of the cab top. Mounted them with an inline fuse from battery to seperate toggle switches ...one for the front and one for the back. Didnt run them thru exsisting light/power systems so there is no connection between the two. Have juice running FROM battery leads to the back of switch, altho I cannot get any readings coming OUT of the switch as it seems they are ALL hot on the back side of the switch. (All the contacts) Switch is totally enclosed cept for the contacts on the underside where they are under the dash. Switch is NOT "openable". Wire harness from switch to wire harness to tractor.
Tried to replace fuse with a 30 amp, all it did was take a lil longer to blow. Am NOT going to go any higher in amp. of fuse. All other systems work properly on tractor. Am I missing something? Where could this short be at? I cannot check power FROM switch TO individual lights, cause it keeps blowing the fuse, (no matter how fast I move to check it, the electricity goes faster than me! LOL). Have taken all the bulbs out of the sockets, cleaned them off, dielectric greese on them, and back in. Am at a stump as to where to look or what to do next. Dont REALLY need them as my aftermarket lights light up everything better than stock ones do, but the fender lights DO add a certain amount of heat to the cab when moving snow and working in the cold, and cab fully enclosed. Any ideas? Anyone else had this happen? Find a cure for it? Dont want to take it to dealer for something this "simple". Post suggestions away!
After i put the new switch in, they worked fine, now they are shorting again. At 45.00 for a switch, it will get a lil expensive to keep replacing it! I mounted some other back-up lights to the fenders and also some forward facing lights to the underside of the cab top. Mounted them with an inline fuse from battery to seperate toggle switches ...one for the front and one for the back. Didnt run them thru exsisting light/power systems so there is no connection between the two. Have juice running FROM battery leads to the back of switch, altho I cannot get any readings coming OUT of the switch as it seems they are ALL hot on the back side of the switch. (All the contacts) Switch is totally enclosed cept for the contacts on the underside where they are under the dash. Switch is NOT "openable". Wire harness from switch to wire harness to tractor.
Tried to replace fuse with a 30 amp, all it did was take a lil longer to blow. Am NOT going to go any higher in amp. of fuse. All other systems work properly on tractor. Am I missing something? Where could this short be at? I cannot check power FROM switch TO individual lights, cause it keeps blowing the fuse, (no matter how fast I move to check it, the electricity goes faster than me! LOL). Have taken all the bulbs out of the sockets, cleaned them off, dielectric greese on them, and back in. Am at a stump as to where to look or what to do next. Dont REALLY need them as my aftermarket lights light up everything better than stock ones do, but the fender lights DO add a certain amount of heat to the cab when moving snow and working in the cold, and cab fully enclosed. Any ideas? Anyone else had this happen? Find a cure for it? Dont want to take it to dealer for something this "simple". Post suggestions away!