Like a dream??

   / Like a dream?? #11  
I've got to say that IF you have a good Mig and it's set up right you'll never want to stick weld again. Some of these smaller mig outfits are notorious for wire feed problems and would wear you out trying to use them.

Tomorrow I'm heading out to do some mobile welding and it involves stick welding and I'll grumble about it the whole time I'm out doing it. I just love the Mig process and I think it's the best invention since the arrival of the wheel.
 
   / Like a dream?? #12  
Gasless Flux Core needs Electrode ( or Mig Gun ) Negative, Ground positive. If you set up according to the chart, you are probably too far away from the weld with the gun. Get in there 1/4" from the plate and try that. if the wire still pushes you back, Reduce wire speed or increase voltage. You will be a pro in no time..:thumbsup:
 
   / Like a dream?? #13  
So why are you heading out to stick it? If migs the best thing since sliced bread? They make generator mig machines.

Mig has its place,sticks got is place,tigs got its place subarc has got its place,,etc.

But stick is the simplest process going,and excepting sheet metal,will out preform mig every time as far as quality[if used by equally qualified people].,

You got to know how a mig machine works to make it work,stick you don't have to know much about the machine except turning a knob,,

Yeah,if new welder has a properly tuned mig,and he is sticking to flat fillits,it seems like mig is the only way to go,,but if that machine needs fixing or tuning,he is like thread starter,,,and if he trys something besides flat fillits,he will be in for a learning experience.
 
   / Like a dream?? #14  
Switch to gas.

Sit down with someone who can MIG and let them give you a few pointers. Within minutes you will be a better welder.
 
   / Like a dream?? #15  
So why are you heading out to stick it? If migs the best thing since sliced bread? They make generator mig machines.

I never said it was the best thing since sliced bread. I happen to think sliced bread was a great invention :laughing: I'm heading out with the unit and doing stick because It's going to be a windy day for one. It's a heavy thick piece on an excavator in a very tight area. I do aluminum mig with the mobile unit but in this case stick is going to be best for the type of repair BUT I still like mig better :D Each process has it's place. Everyone is aloud to have a favorite process ;) The stick process will never become obsolete in IMHO and that's why I still use it.


A few pics from the past:
 

Attachments

  • mob1.jpg
    mob1.jpg
    138.5 KB · Views: 160
  • mob2.jpg
    mob2.jpg
    143.6 KB · Views: 149
  • mob3.jpg
    mob3.jpg
    517.1 KB · Views: 165
   / Like a dream??
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Hold on. Give it some time. Try few things first:

1) How's the ground?
2) Since you're using flux core is the material clean?
3) When you're getting your setting info are you getting it for the right wire diameter and material thickness, gas or flux core (innershield)?
4) Are you kinking the lead too much?
5) Is the drive wheel (wire feed wheel) adjusted properly?
6) Do you have a good tip on it?
7) How far away are you holding the gun from the work surface?

All of these come into play and please don't let me insult you with any of these questions.:eek: A mig machine is a nice thing to have but like anything else if it isn't operating properly and causing you too much work and headache it's not worth it. Let us know what you find out.:thumbsup:

1) I assumed my ground was good, but will double check
2) used wire wheel on the work before starting
3) I think so
4) Don't believe so
5) Not sure, but it dang sure feeds the wire out when I forget to get off the trigger:eek:
6) tip was new
7) about 3/8" maybe 1/2" (since I'm used to stick, it's hard not to shove the whole thing into the work piece

No insult taken, this is all new to me.
Someone mentioned a needle scaler; definitely have to get one.
I'll have to wait a few paydays on the gas bottle.
Don't really know anyone that migs so I'm on my own for a while. I mostly taught myself to stick weld (with the help of some written instruction & photos).

Years ago, a welder told me, "if you was smart I could teach you to weld in five minutes, but your not and I don't have time" :ashamed:
Another friend stopped by when I was learning to use a cutting torch and remarked "looks like some of God's handiwork" to which I replied "you mean that piece He did out west of Flagstaff?" He said "yeah.":laughing:
 
   / Like a dream?? #17  
The old migs[maybe some of the newer better migs] have knobs you turn for amps and volts,,wire speed is amps on a mig,,you adjust volts say 19-20 for .035 wire,,than you adjust wire speed to get it right,,if your wire is hitting pushing metal,,than wire speed is to fast,,you either turn volts up,or wire speed down,,,,

than,,your feed rollers have to be the right ones for what your using and they have to be adjusted not to tight but not to loose,,,Your wire needs to be covered and not all dusty or rusty.

Than your gun conduit has to be clean,,and of course your gun has to be working right,,many things to fine tune and keep tuned,,,gas has to be proper cfh,,etc...

But,if you get a good 220 mig,,and you learn how it all works and adjusts,,,you can weld away with it,,have welded sch 40 pipe[4-6 inch] in fixed 6 g postion[45 degree],open root,,and had it pass bend and tensile tests,,,just ain't easy as welding a flat fillit with low volts and amps.

Mig has got to have a very clean surface[shiny],,no oil,grease or water],.

Give me a stick machine every time,if I'm wanting to weld something besides sheet metal or aluminum,,,you get a welding beginner,,they should get a dc stick welder and some 3/32 6010 rods,,
 
   / Like a dream?? #18  
Contrary to opinions, wire feed is one of the easiest processes for a beginner to learn. My wife has welded a grand total of maybe 5 minutes in her life, and with a few minutes of instruction (she listens well) she can run an excellent bead with a wire-feeder.

I doubt that the original poster wanted to be told that stick was a better process, and he should use that. I think he asked for advice on how to improve his wire-feed technique.

If you're using flux core wire, polarity is electrode negative, ground positive. My Miller came set up for electrode positive, set for solid wire and shielding gas.

The proper gun angle helps a lot as well. As lost cause mentioned, if you're having trouble with too high a bead profile or wire pushing on the work, either turn up the voltage or turn down the current. It will also reduce spatter. With a wire-feeder, voltage is "heat", and current is wire speed. I've been told that an ideal situation is to put as much heat into the weld puddle as possible without burning through, to achieve the best penetration.

A 140 should have enough power to burn a hole through 1/8 steel, so as long as you're practicing, crank it up all the way, and lay down a nice slow bead. If you find you're burning holes in the workpiece, drop the heat down a notch and try again.
Take your time, allow the puddle to form, use one hand to hold the gun and the other to cradle the gun hand. A steady hand is your best friend here, if you're shaky at all you don't get the heat concentration you need. It took me a long time to slow down the bead enough to get a good weld. The toes of the weld should taper smoothly into the workpiece, if not you're too cold, too high a feed speed, or too fast. If the electrode is at the very front of the weld puddle (chasing), you won't get good results. I like to see it maybe 1/3 of the way back in the puddle.

I've not been to Lincoln's web site, but Miller has some excellent tutorials.

I make a point of writing "cheat notes" on what settings work the best for me on the inside cover of the welder, right next to the Miller chart. Quite often they're higher heat and the same speed, as lost cause mentioned.

Sean
 
   / Like a dream?? #19  
Thin metal frustrates me no end. For giggles, try welding 3/16" or 1/4" and see if it goes better. If so, then work down to 1/8" and below. Also, use good quality wire like Lincoln. When I ran out of Airgas' Radnor house brand wire, I got a spool of Lincoln wire and it is a pleasure to use.

And as others have said...MIG likes clean metal. Wire brush and/or grind as required to get a well prepped joint.
 
   / Like a dream??
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Contrary to opinions, wire feed is one of the easiest processes for a beginner to learn. My wife has welded a grand total of maybe 5 minutes in her life, and with a few minutes of instruction (she listens well) she can run an excellent bead with a wire-feeder.

I doubt that the original poster wanted to be told that stick was a better process, and he should use that. I think he asked for advice on how to improve his wire-feed technique.

If you're using flux core wire, polarity is electrode negative, ground positive. My Miller came set up for electrode positive, set for solid wire and shielding gas.

The proper gun angle helps a lot as well. As lost cause mentioned, if you're having trouble with too high a bead profile or wire pushing on the work, either turn up the voltage or turn down the current. It will also reduce spatter. With a wire-feeder, voltage is "heat", and current is wire speed. I've been told that an ideal situation is to put as much heat into the weld puddle as possible without burning through, to achieve the best penetration.

A 140 should have enough power to burn a hole through 1/8 steel, so as long as you're practicing, crank it up all the way, and lay down a nice slow bead. If you find you're burning holes in the workpiece, drop the heat down a notch and try again.
Take your time, allow the puddle to form, use one hand to hold the gun and the other to cradle the gun hand. A steady hand is your best friend here, if you're shaky at all you don't get the heat concentration you need. It took me a long time to slow down the bead enough to get a good weld. The toes of the weld should taper smoothly into the workpiece, if not you're too cold, too high a feed speed, or too fast. If the electrode is at the very front of the weld puddle (chasing), you won't get good results. I like to see it maybe 1/3 of the way back in the puddle.

I've not been to Lincoln's web site, but Miller has some excellent tutorials.

I make a point of writing "cheat notes" on what settings work the best for me on the inside cover of the welder, right next to the Miller chart. Quite often they're higher heat and the same speed, as lost cause mentioned.

Sean

Thanks, Sean..
I'll double check the polarity. I've always had keep a close eye on my "weld" speed as I tend to hurry it. This was my first attempt with the wire feed.
It would have been easy to crank up the DC machine, but I wanted to start practicing with the wire feed.
Hopefully I'll have some time in the next few days to give it another go. I'll play with the voltage & speed some more. I seem to remember something about gun angle, I'll have to re-read to book.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2012 KOMATSU GD655-5 (A52472)
2012 KOMATSU...
2010 Ford Edge SE SUV (A51694)
2010 Ford Edge SE...
2017 JOHN DEERE 6120M TRACTOR (A51406)
2017 JOHN DEERE...
2014 XL SPECIALIZED TRAILER XL 110 HDG RGN (A52472)
2014 XL...
Miller Wildcat 350-D Welder (A51691)
Miller Wildcat...
2023 NEW HOLLAND WAGON TONGUE AND LOADING CHUTE FOR NEW HOLLAND SQUARE BALERS (A52748)
2023 NEW HOLLAND...
 
Top