Liking my new rear blade

   / Liking my new rear blade #11  
I cut into the tube, completely through one side, on a table saw, then forced it onto the blade with a hammer and wood block. It's a very tight fit and so far has not come off. The width of the saw kerf worked out very well with a single cut...any wider and it would have been a loose fit, any narrower and it would have been a lot harder to get on. HDPE plastic is very easy to cut/machine, and highly scratch/impact resistant, even in very cold temperatures.

Do you think that type of plastic pipe would hold up with a heavy 630# blade like this? Thanks

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   / Liking my new rear blade
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I got the plastic tube from McMaster Carr, McMaster-Carr.
It wasn't cheap but, I think it's about the best material choice. I know that others have used a rubber edge with good results, which may be less expensive, but a rubber edge requires bolting to the blade and I did'nt want to do that. Regarding whether it will work on a larger heavier blade, hard to say, I would think that you might want a larger outside diameter tube, and one with a heavier wall. Regarding turf-tires, so far I have no problems in 4WD. If I'm pushing the pile, the wheels will sometimes spin when I reach a high snow bank, but I figure that it's telling me I'm at the limit of what I can safely push without risking damage to the tractor.
 
   / Liking my new rear blade #13  
I got the plastic tube from McMaster Carr, McMaster-Carr.
It wasn't cheap but, I think it's about the best material choice. I know that others have used a rubber edge with good results, which may be less expensive, but a rubber edge requires bolting to the blade and I did'nt want to do that. Regarding whether it will work on a larger heavier blade, hard to say, I would think that you might want a larger outside diameter tube, and one with a heavier wall. Regarding turf-tires, so far I have no problems in 4WD. If I'm pushing the pile, the wheels will sometimes spin when I reach a high snow bank, but I figure that it's telling me I'm at the limit of what I can safely push without risking damage to the tractor.

Nice job on protecting the driveway with the tube! I grew up in northern michigan and the ground would freeze By a certain point in the season. Never had to worry about tearing up the driveway at that point.
The plow really matches your Kubota well! It won't be a waist to have it after winter though, I'm sure you will find it can serve its uses for grading your driveway.
Don't forget those kubotas usually have a differential lock that is in gauged with your right foot. I have met a lot of owners that didn't know they had them. They can get you out if you get stuck
 
   / Liking my new rear blade #14  
I cut into the tube, completely through one side, on a table saw, then forced it onto the blade with a hammer and wood block. It's a very tight fit and so far has not come off. The width of the saw kerf worked out very well with a single cut...any wider and it would have been a loose fit, any narrower and it would have been a lot harder to get on. HDPE plastic is very easy to cut/machine, and highly scratch/impact resistant, even in very cold temperatures.
I have thought about doing something similar with my back blade and was going to ask the same question as to how it would stay on. Is there a difference between HDPE and PVC plastic? Thanks for the post;you have given me the extra push needed to do this little project.
 
   / Liking my new rear blade
  • Thread Starter
#15  
PVC is cheaper than HDPE, but it will crack/shatter in freezing temperatures. Plus it's not as scratch/ding resistant as HDPE, so it will wear out sooner. HDPE is also more flexible, which means that once cut, it grips the blade better than PVC. I got the plastic tube idea from another post on this site. Some guys use a steel pipe with welded tabs, which they bolt through the blade. I don't weld so I opted for the plastic tube. If you search plowing gravel driveways on this forum, you will see other posts and other solutions.
 
   / Liking my new rear blade #16  
On my 84 inch fel blade I tack welded a piece of 3/4 in iron pipe to the cutt'n edge to help not gouge in and not shave gravel off the drive for the first few plowings. I try to leave a shallow 'snow floor' to make future plowing easier and quicker. After the 'snow floor' freezes good, only thing getting removed is the snow. Even with a non-guarded plow cutt'n edge.

On the back I have a 72 inch rear blade with the skids up all the way. When the snow floor thaws and freezes, the drive becomes a frigg'n ice skating ring. With the sharper edge on the rear blade, I can 'shave' the glazed ice a little, traction of tractor provided, to remove the glaze and give it some traction instead of slicktion'
 
   / Liking my new rear blade #17  
A piece of horse stall rubber between the edge and the blade works mint. I also have used an old tire. I found, it works better on grass when the tractor's top link is set short. It works better on pavement when the top link is set long.
 
   / Liking my new rear blade
  • Thread Starter
#18  
A follow up to my original post...I discovered that as the plastic tube begins to wear from dragging along the gravel, it gets thinner and as it gets thinner the groove tends to open up, which makes it slip off the blade. I have a fix in mind, something another poster on this site came up with, which consists of drilling holes in the pipe and securing it to the blade with rubber strap hooks. I think this will work ok until the pipe finally wears through. Once that happens I am going to use the rubber horse stall mat strip others have mentioned.
 

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