Lincoln Arc 225

[Big Barn]

Thursday! That's 2 DAYS away. U gonna be able to sleep?? .

Terry

 

[PhysAssist]

Carl - - you GOT the T shirt, right?

View attachment 459574


Terry

Don't you guys mean bananas?

 

[k0ua]

You have started along a wonderful journey. Please don't get discouraged when your first attempts to strike an arc don't seem to go well. It takes time. Sometimes a lot of it to make good looking welds. Also get some 7014. It will make getting started a bit easier.. Also another trick is cutting your rods in half. A half rod is easier to control for a newby than a full length one. I would also get some 3/32 7018. It will take less current, allow you to practice on thinner material with less heat/arc. Just overall a little easier when you are starting out. Also a good auto darkening helmet is essential. It is so much easier to strike an arc when you can see what you are doing.

OK, OK, real welders don't need to see to strike an arc.. I ain't a real welder, and neither are you. And while I welded for many years without an autodarkening helmet, when I got one, it was like those folks you see on TV that get a cochlear implant that allows them to hear for the first time in their life. Yeah it is just about that big a difference. I can see!:shocked:

 

[ovrszd]

Very good advice James!!

 

[paulsharvey]

Does it matter where I get my rods? Example, welding shop or Harbor Freight? 7018 1/8" rods.

Harbor Freight is actually pretty expensive for an unknown quality of rod. I think it's like $9.99/2 lbs; compared to TSC, Hobart rods in a rod holder (not air tight, but better than card board) for $16.99/5 lbs. Both prices are not exact, but give or take $0.50 and for 3/32 and 1/8" 6011.

 

[paulsharvey]

Just picked up some rods. Looked at E6011, E6013, and E7018 all were 1/8" rods. I grab a 5lb box of E6011, the little chart said it would work on old rusty metal. I will be grinding to clean metal where I am welding, but figure this would be a good starting point.

Thursday! PowerArc 200ST should be here Thursday! I'll take pictures and post.

I'm not a welder, but I like 3/32" 6011 for just having around. Lately I've been using a lot of 3/32" 6013, just because I got 40 lbs for $5.35 at an estate sale, but for the heavy, rusty, free scrap I'm normally using, it's not the best.

 

[k0ua]

I'm not a welder, but I like 3/32" 6011 for just having around. Lately I've been using a lot of 3/32" 6013, just because I got 40 lbs for $5.35 at an estate sale, but for the heavy, rusty, free scrap I'm normally using, it's not the best.

I am not a big fan of 6013, but hey for $5.35 for 40 lbs... um that price is hard to beat!

 

[Big Barn]

I am not a big fan of 6013, but hey for $5.35 for 40 lbs... um that price is hard to beat!

No kidding on the price!

6011 and 6013 were the ONLY rods I used/knew about for 45 years. Didn't even know about (or have) a DC welder.

Us farm boys led sheltered lives....

Terry

 

[k0ua]

No kidding on the price!

6011 and 6013 were the ONLY rods I used/knew about for 45 years. Didn't even know about (or have) a DC welder.

Us farm boys led sheltered lives....

Terry

Well, all I had for years was 6011 and 6013 too with an AC machine. And the dang single shade cheapie helmet that came with it. Um, some of my first attempts at welding were not very pretty.

 

[Shield Arc]

Far as the auto hoods go. Even the Pros who do code welding work like them. Doing code work, any arc strike marks outside the weld zone will get you fired. So with the new auto hoods, why take that chance?!