Lincoln Electric AC/DC 225/125 Welder
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Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
On an SA200, the exciter brushes are under the little dome shaped cover. Moving from there towards the engine, the diameter steps up. That first smooth area is a band of sheet metal like a big band clamp. The main brushes are under there. Yes, the Lincoln web site has free downloads of the old manuals.
Is yours an SA200? If so, Congrats!
Is yours an SA200? If so, Congrats!
JeffandTamara
Silver Member
It is a Weldandpower 225, with a 16 HP B&S, I would guess it is about 1985 vintage. Has not been used in the last 5-6 years, Was used very little before then as well. I need it for about a 10 minute weld job....will proably take me a week to get it running, if I'm lucky and don't do more harm than I do good. I did download the manual's, Didn't help much. If I had a good source to take it to for a re-furb, that might be my best choice??Brad_Blazer said:
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Is this it?
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/OBSO_IMS/IM242A.pdf
Sounds like the exciter commutator is the only part that may need any cleaning. It does not have the big main generator commutator brushes like an SA200. It is an AC welder and just uses slip rings to connect to the main rotor windings. They should be fine.
Take the nose cover off the exciter and see if it looks okay and the brushes are free. If it hasn't been completely out in the weather it should be fine. You will not hurt the welder by running it without doing anything to it. Change the oil, spray some WD40 in the plug holes, replace the plugs and crank it. If it has spark it will run on carburator cleaner sprayed into the carb throat. If that works and the fuel lines are okay, gas it up, start it on carb cleaner and see if it picks up on it's own. Once it's running, test the voltage at the 110 outlets and welding leads. My guess is that it will be working.
Good luck,
Brad
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/OBSO_IMS/IM242A.pdf
Sounds like the exciter commutator is the only part that may need any cleaning. It does not have the big main generator commutator brushes like an SA200. It is an AC welder and just uses slip rings to connect to the main rotor windings. They should be fine.
Take the nose cover off the exciter and see if it looks okay and the brushes are free. If it hasn't been completely out in the weather it should be fine. You will not hurt the welder by running it without doing anything to it. Change the oil, spray some WD40 in the plug holes, replace the plugs and crank it. If it has spark it will run on carburator cleaner sprayed into the carb throat. If that works and the fuel lines are okay, gas it up, start it on carb cleaner and see if it picks up on it's own. Once it's running, test the voltage at the 110 outlets and welding leads. My guess is that it will be working.
Good luck,
Brad
JeffandTamara
Silver Member
Thanks so much for the insight....
This is the model http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/OBSO_IMS/IM308.pdf
Same Procedures???
On this model, Not sure where the cover for the exciter would be.
(1) Dump the old gas.
(2) Replace the battery and clean the connections.
(2.5) Check air cleaner
(3) Clean the plug, replace if necessary
(4) Spray some WD40 in the cylinder
Spin the motor to see we have spark with the plug out.
If got spark...Continue...
(5) Spray the Carb with Carb Cleaner
(6) Put the plug back in and see if it will fire.
If it will come up to speed, then check voltage...
What Have I missed??
This is the model http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/OBSO_IMS/IM308.pdf
Same Procedures???
On this model, Not sure where the cover for the exciter would be.
(1) Dump the old gas.
(2) Replace the battery and clean the connections.
(2.5) Check air cleaner
(3) Clean the plug, replace if necessary
(4) Spray some WD40 in the cylinder
Spin the motor to see we have spark with the plug out.
If got spark...Continue...
(5) Spray the Carb with Carb Cleaner
(6) Put the plug back in and see if it will fire.
If it will come up to speed, then check voltage...
What Have I missed??
Treemonkey1000
Veteran Member
If there is any old gas left in the tank see if it smells rancid. If it has been left in there for a long period the old gas may have turned to syrup in the gas lines and float bowl. Pouring fresh gas on top of the old varnished up fuel may still give you some starting headaches. Also keep an eye open for cracked fuel lines at the tank or to the carb. Leaky gas lines around a spark could scorch a few things.
Nice looking welder though. That should do a lot for you if you get the itch.
Jim
Nice looking welder though. That should do a lot for you if you get the itch.
Jim
chh
Veteran Member
Don't forget to change the engine oil. No telling what it looks like. If it has not been in the weather, I'd bet the welder part would be fine. I hope the gas was drained out of the tank and carb before it was put up. The carb may be gummed up if it wasn't, carb cleaner may or may not get it all out and functioning correctly depending on how bad it is. I'd do all the stuff and give it a try though to see what it would do. You could easily be very pleasantly suprised.
Good Luck and let us know how it comes out.
Good Luck and let us know how it comes out.
gerard
Veteran Member
dirt clod said:
I'm no pro but I took a BOCES course in welding and then bought the Lincoln AC 225 for about $250. Recently I broke down and bought a Lincoln mig 120 volt mig set up. Stick welding isn't too hard but there's quite a learning curve because of all the variables and types of sticks. You need to match the diameter of the stick to the voltage to the thickness of the metal. AND you need to know if that stick is ok for vertical welds, overhead welds etc. Mig removes a lot of those variables. My intent is to use the mig for light duty welding and tacking projects together, then use the stick if I need heavier penetration.
I have found that 6013 is a pretty decent all around rod that leaves nice beads and 6011 is useful if you don't have clean base metal. (The 6011 splatters a lot and leaves ragged looking welds but it burns through rust and paint like it's not there and has great penetration.
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
JeffandTamara said:
I don't think it has an exciter. Looks like a nice welder-generator. I'm pretty sure it will weld if the engine runs.
JeffandTamara
Silver Member
Status Report:
Amazingly... got the engine to run. Thanks for the idea to run it off Carb Cleaner. I think that was the trick. After several cycles of spraying with Carb Cleaner and hooking it back up to the gas line...It took off and ran on it's own. Still some work to do to verify the welder still works...
Next will be to change the oil before I let it run for any length of time. The oil level was full and looked pretty clean on my finger, so I wanted to make sure it would run before I changed the oil.
After Oil Change will check the voltage on the AC Outlets.
Based on what everyone has said, I am more optismistic about getting this thing to run without spending much money on it...... Thanks for all the input, without it, I would have loaded it up and took it to have it worked on....No telling how many $$ you guys saved me!!!
Amazingly... got the engine to run. Thanks for the idea to run it off Carb Cleaner. I think that was the trick. After several cycles of spraying with Carb Cleaner and hooking it back up to the gas line...It took off and ran on it's own. Still some work to do to verify the welder still works...
Next will be to change the oil before I let it run for any length of time. The oil level was full and looked pretty clean on my finger, so I wanted to make sure it would run before I changed the oil.
After Oil Change will check the voltage on the AC Outlets.
Based on what everyone has said, I am more optismistic about getting this thing to run without spending much money on it...... Thanks for all the input, without it, I would have loaded it up and took it to have it worked on....No telling how many $$ you guys saved me!!!