linear actuator to run grapple???????

   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #11  
I hope this thread isn't dead yet. I just read tonight and think I understand the objective of the original post. That being: using the 3 pt. hydraulics for operation of a grapple instead of adding a new set of hydraulics. If this is correct, it could make the difference in my getting a grapple or not. In it's simplest form, can someone explain how this would work and what would be needed.
Thanks
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #12  
MO, in my op only, if you have a FEL, the easiest way is with a diverter.
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #13  
I hope this thread isn't dead yet. I just read tonight and think I understand the objective of the original post. That being: using the 3 pt. hydraulics for operation of a grapple instead of adding a new set of hydraulics. If this is correct, it could make the difference in my getting a grapple or not. In it's simplest form, can someone explain how this would work and what would be needed.
Thanks

Well, the thread is pretty much dead and I haven't reread it completely but the title implies an electric actuator to move the grapple arm. That is possible but not common. What I think you are interested in is using the tractor rear remotes to control a grapple. That works fine. Been there done that. It is also possible to tap into the FEL hydraulics with a diverter valve and even a separate electric over hydraulic valve system. All of these methods work. Using existing rear remotes is by far the least expensive way to go about controlling a grapple. You don't mention if you already have at least one set of rear remotes. If you do you can set up a pair of hydraulic lines and quick connects for about $100-150. Maybe less if you buy the stuff via internet discount or more if you go to a local hydraulic shop. Bottom line though is that you need to have the rear remotes. If you don't then it will cost you about $300 in parts plus a half day of labor or maybe $600 to have a dealer install the rear remote. It only costs a little more to have two sets installed and that is IMO worth it as you can then use the grapple and leave a hydraulic topping lift set up.

I've used both rear remotes and a diverter valve. I actually prefer the rear remote. Just as natural as shifting a four on the floor transmission.

Diverter valve kits from established companies like WRLong cost about $600-700 and can be user installed or cost maybe two hours labor at a tractor dealership. Electric over hydraulic setups cost a couple hundred more than diverter valves.

To further educate yourself, search on rear remotes, grapple and diverter valve here on TBN. Lots of discussions and opinions.

Edit: it looks like you have a Mahindra 4025. A rear remote is an added option on that tractor so if you didn't get one installed originally the dealer certainly has a kit to do it. Again, if it were mine and I needed to install a set of remotes, I'd do two sets at the same time. Cheap money for the upgrade and lots of potential uses.
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #14  
Edit: it looks like you have a Mahindra 4025. A rear remote is an added option on that tractor so if you didn't get one installed originally the dealer certainly has a kit to do it. Again, if it were mine and I needed to install a set of remotes, I'd do two sets at the same time. Cheap money for the upgrade and lots of potential uses.

I couldn't agree more. The factory remotes will raise the value of the tractor and will have support from any Mahindra dealer. That would certainly be my first choice.
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #15  
If you want a one handed operation, then I would get the diverter/selector valve like this.

Surplus Center - SAE 8 6 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-2

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117-A.pdf

Once installed and wired up, with no power applied the curl circuit works normally. When you want grapple , turn switch on, and the grapple will work using the curl levers.

If you have remotes and they are on the same side as the FEL valve, it will take two hands to operate.

The the 3ed function valve is installed in series with the hyd flow and pushing the up button, the grapple opens, and pushing the down button, the grapple closes. With the 3ed function valve, you need a sub plate for a single station. like this

Surplus Center - 12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE

Surplus Center - 1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

All ports on this subplate can handle high pressure.
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #16  
J_J said:
If you have remotes and they are on the same side as the FEL valve, it will take two hands to operate..

Not sure what you mean. One hand does fine. Use the FEL joystick to position the grapple and when you are ready to clamp you just drop your hand to the remote lever. Works just like dropping your hand from a car steering wheel to the shifter. Becomes automatic with muscle memory in a day or so.
 
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   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #17  
If you want a one handed operation, then I would get the diverter/selector valve like this.

Surplus Center - SAE 8 6 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE 12 VDC P15544-2

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-5117-A.pdf

Once installed and wired up, with no power applied the curl circuit works normally. When you want grapple , turn switch on, and the grapple will work using the curl levers.

If you have remotes and they are on the same side as the FEL valve, it will take two hands to operate.

The the 3ed function valve is installed in series with the hyd flow and pushing the up button, the grapple opens, and pushing the down button, the grapple closes. With the 3ed function valve, you need a sub plate for a single station. like this

Surplus Center - 12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE

Surplus Center - 1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

All ports on this subplate can handle high pressure.

JJ on the 3rd function valve, the wiring bugs me. I don't understand how to hook up the Hirschman . I mentions not using the ground connector and +12 volts pin and a -12Volt Pin.. well I know all about + and - 12 volt supplys like in the power supply of your computer, and the are + and - with respect to a ground reference.. AND there is no -12 volt supply available on any tractor or any other vehicle I know of. + and - 5v and 12V supplies are common supplys for digital IC's. but not Solenoids.. I know they did not mean -12Volts for a solenoid, but I assume they meant to reverse the polarity of the applied voltage? or something.. there was no wireing diagram showing the battery supply and switches and the solenoid/valves. Can you or anyone shed some light on this? I normally understand electrical/electronic things very well, having worked in this industry for many years, but this negative 12 volt thing is throwing me. Perhaps I am reading too much into it.

James K0UA
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #18  
You have a + post on the battery and a - post on the battery, therefore -12v, and +12v.

Negative post is normally ground .
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #19  
You have a + post on the battery and a - post on the battery, therefore -12v, and +12v.

Negative post is normally ground .

Well Ok.. I am sure that is what they meant.. Now on to the second part. there was no application diagram. there are 2 (Hirschman)electrical connectors on the valve, why? and if you apply - and + as shown to connector 1 what happens to the valve ? what happens to the valve if you apply + and - as shown at the same time. to connector 2? Do you just apply + and - to one connector at a time for each function? (extend/retract) what I am getting at is to make the grapple cylinder extend or retract what voltage should be applied to what connector to make the valves switch the path of the fluid flow out to the extend and retract work ports thru the subplate? This is where I am confused. If they had included a diagram I think I would be ok. I am guessing you apply voltage to one connector and it operates one of the valves to send flow to the work port that is controlled by that electrical connector, and the other valve remains blocked. So lets call this the extend work port on the subplate. Then if you remove that voltage, then it snaps shut by itself and flow continues on to the power beyond input port on the tractor block to serve the 3pt. Then if you apply voltage to the other connector it operates the other valve, lets call it the retract work port, and when you release its voltage, the valve snaps shut and flow continues thru the subplate out to the 3pt. You would never apply voltage to both at the same time. Am I right or am I full of it? Thanks for the help Oh, and by the way, I spent hours looking at JIC ORB and NPT adaptors and hoses.. They say they recommend JIC and ORB fittings not NPT. Then why do a lot of guys use NPT? What say you? All of this is confusing as heck for a beginner, but I am learning.

James K0UA
 
   / linear actuator to run grapple??????? #20  
You are mostly right.

If you use a three position momentary switch with the center position off. ON-off-on Terminals 1-2-3

Connecting points

Grapple Open solenoid wire to terminal 1.

+12v to center terminal.

Grapple Close solenoid wire2 to terminal 3.

Both ground to ground.

The +12v should come from the ign switch with a fuse to the center terminal 2 on the switch.

Spring center of the switch= no grapple grapple operation.

You do realize that using the 3ed function valve you are applying full GPM's to the grapple cyl and it could be very fast.

You probably should run 1/4 hose to the grapple and maybe add a needle valve to vary the GPM flow rate to suit your needs.

Grapple will probably be in the position you left it in.

Selecting position 1, grapple opens.

Selecting position 2, grapple closes.

No grapple in spring center.
 

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