its too bad you've had bad luck so far. I haven't had any real problems with my BH7600. The stabilizers do leak down, though I park mine on blocks, so no biggy. I did break the zerk on the bucket pivot, though its been fine since I replaced it. All mine take grease well. I haven't had the o-ring issue. I suspect its an isolated problem. I do hope you get up and running soon.
Backhoe LITW backhoe on T273
- Thread starter flyer91
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flyer91
Bronze Member
Thanks for the kind words shvl73.
I should be back up in short order, I just need to get the O rings, and it's an easy job to replace them.
Your 7600 has an altogether different control block than does the 6600, so I'd bet if you haven't had any isses with O rings you probably won't.
In all fairness the BH6600 hoe actually performs well (beyond the bleeding down of the stab's all the time) and the zerk fittings could be both shortened as I indicated and 'protected' by welding short lengths of ... say, 1/2" I.D. thick wall pipe to the tube that the fittings are threaded into, to surround the fittings (especially at the bucket end) so it still allows a grease gun to get to the fitting do it's job, while it goes a long way to keeping the fittings from being scraped off if you hit a rock.
I'll end up doing this before I sell it (actually have my brother do it with his welder) as I still have a lot of work to do in short time.
I have a lot of trees on my property and if I don't secure the stab's with bungees (or some other means) while I'm using the FEL, they bleed down far enough (in less than only a few minutes) to be sticking out where they could easily hit a tree if I don't stay vigilant.
Too bad there is no easy way to mod them to be able to pin them (like the boom and swing) in both the up and down positions.
I should be back up in short order, I just need to get the O rings, and it's an easy job to replace them.
Your 7600 has an altogether different control block than does the 6600, so I'd bet if you haven't had any isses with O rings you probably won't.
In all fairness the BH6600 hoe actually performs well (beyond the bleeding down of the stab's all the time) and the zerk fittings could be both shortened as I indicated and 'protected' by welding short lengths of ... say, 1/2" I.D. thick wall pipe to the tube that the fittings are threaded into, to surround the fittings (especially at the bucket end) so it still allows a grease gun to get to the fitting do it's job, while it goes a long way to keeping the fittings from being scraped off if you hit a rock.
I'll end up doing this before I sell it (actually have my brother do it with his welder) as I still have a lot of work to do in short time.
I have a lot of trees on my property and if I don't secure the stab's with bungees (or some other means) while I'm using the FEL, they bleed down far enough (in less than only a few minutes) to be sticking out where they could easily hit a tree if I don't stay vigilant.
Too bad there is no easy way to mod them to be able to pin them (like the boom and swing) in both the up and down positions.
I am running the 6600 pump/tank setup on my TC-30. I bought mine at the same place you did. I just took the hoe off and it will sit flat on the floor with the stabilizers in the up position. I can put the pump on and bring up to a level to hook up. I didn't notice my Stabilizers moving down until overnight.
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flyer91
Bronze Member
I'm not back on line yet but I would like to say that Steve at Valley View is going beyond the call of duty to get me back at work.
He has taken the O-rings off a new valve block, and is overnighting them to me.
I'm really glad to have bought from a dealer that is willing to provide this level of support tor me ..... after the sale.
He's also given me some "timed tests" to run on the stabilizers, in both the up position and down with weight on them.
Once I'm back up and running I will do the tests and we'll go from there.
I'm also trying to see if I can determine the failure mechanism for the O-rings.
The control valve block is mounted to the panel by 3 bolts.
Two at one end and one at the other.
The end that has the two failed O-Rings is at the end that has two bolts, so I will check the mounting boss for flatness, and make sure there is no warp in it.
I hate to just swap parts without finding a root cause for the failure, but it may very well be that the O-rings were incorrectly installed by Nimco in the first place.
Steve indicated that they have not had any issues like this before, and Nimco valves are used in many OEM applications so ... we'll see what we can find and I'll report what I find, assuming I find anything.
He has taken the O-rings off a new valve block, and is overnighting them to me.
I'm really glad to have bought from a dealer that is willing to provide this level of support tor me ..... after the sale.
He's also given me some "timed tests" to run on the stabilizers, in both the up position and down with weight on them.
Once I'm back up and running I will do the tests and we'll go from there.
I'm also trying to see if I can determine the failure mechanism for the O-rings.
The control valve block is mounted to the panel by 3 bolts.
Two at one end and one at the other.
The end that has the two failed O-Rings is at the end that has two bolts, so I will check the mounting boss for flatness, and make sure there is no warp in it.
I hate to just swap parts without finding a root cause for the failure, but it may very well be that the O-rings were incorrectly installed by Nimco in the first place.
Steve indicated that they have not had any issues like this before, and Nimco valves are used in many OEM applications so ... we'll see what we can find and I'll report what I find, assuming I find anything.
Good news! It certainly helps when the dealer is responsive. I'd be interested to know your end results. If you get an answer on the leak down of the stabilizers, please post. It has become second nature for me to bump the valves to keep the pressure on mine.
Thanks.
Thanks.
YanmarFever
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Gary, I have the same bachoe as you, I also bought it from Steve.flyer91 said:
The O rings did the same thing 2 years ago and we replaced them, since then I have had no problems at all.
Our backhoe has the thumb and pto pump, and its fast, it was well worth the money.
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flyer91
Bronze Member
I installed the new O-rings and made it through about half the day and it appears that the same ones are leaking again (fluid is dripping out of the same side of the control panel).
I will finish this project on my property (in a few more days) while keeping a close eye on my fluid level, by then I'll be at my first service point, and I'll open up the control valve block again to see what's going on.
My plan is to (hopefully) compare the I.D. of the O-ring retaining washers to new ones to see if for some reason the I.D of mine are too large, non concentric, etc, allowing the O-rings to slip through partially, and then leaking.
Nimco was absolutely no help whatsoever.
They just made a lot of noise about how they value their end users, but said "at the end of the day we can't do anything but send you back to the OEM".
They wouldn't even give me a part number, nor specifications for the O-ring, even though the valve block carries their part number, and the drawing in the LITW manual is their drawing.
Big kudos to Steve at Valley View for getting the O-rings to me as fast as he did (by cannibalizing them from a new valve block).
I think that really speaks well of him and Valley View.
Unfortunately the root problem is still to be determined.
I will finish this project on my property (in a few more days) while keeping a close eye on my fluid level, by then I'll be at my first service point, and I'll open up the control valve block again to see what's going on.
My plan is to (hopefully) compare the I.D. of the O-ring retaining washers to new ones to see if for some reason the I.D of mine are too large, non concentric, etc, allowing the O-rings to slip through partially, and then leaking.
Nimco was absolutely no help whatsoever.
They just made a lot of noise about how they value their end users, but said "at the end of the day we can't do anything but send you back to the OEM".
They wouldn't even give me a part number, nor specifications for the O-ring, even though the valve block carries their part number, and the drawing in the LITW manual is their drawing.
Big kudos to Steve at Valley View for getting the O-rings to me as fast as he did (by cannibalizing them from a new valve block).
I think that really speaks well of him and Valley View.
Unfortunately the root problem is still to be determined.
OP
flyer91
Bronze Member
Well ..... they closed the burn season up here today, so I opened up the control panel and found that the top of the valve block is dry (meaning the new leak is 'not' form the O-rings I replaced).
After cleaning everything up I found 'this time' the leak was coming from the bottom cap for the right stabilizer valve.
I took off the cap and found it's lower O-ring cut in two, with most of it stuck in the spring, and the rest still in it's channel in the lower section of the valve rod.
I suspect that what's happening is a result of a bad, plugged or incorrectly set pressure relief valve.
I'm also concerned that if the relief valve has been the root cause (this is looking pretty likely) it has let the system run at much higher than design pressures, and other O-rings/seals/components might be ready to fail.
I've sent an e-mail to Steve at Valley View, and hopefully he can get LITW to agree to sending me a new/rebuilt valve block.
On the plus side .... I got most of the work I needed to get done finished, it's a really nice day, I'm 20 miles away from Yosemite and I own a '99 Prowler, so .... I'm going for a "top-down, radio-up" drive folks!!
After cleaning everything up I found 'this time' the leak was coming from the bottom cap for the right stabilizer valve.
I took off the cap and found it's lower O-ring cut in two, with most of it stuck in the spring, and the rest still in it's channel in the lower section of the valve rod.
I suspect that what's happening is a result of a bad, plugged or incorrectly set pressure relief valve.
I'm also concerned that if the relief valve has been the root cause (this is looking pretty likely) it has let the system run at much higher than design pressures, and other O-rings/seals/components might be ready to fail.
I've sent an e-mail to Steve at Valley View, and hopefully he can get LITW to agree to sending me a new/rebuilt valve block.
On the plus side .... I got most of the work I needed to get done finished, it's a really nice day, I'm 20 miles away from Yosemite and I own a '99 Prowler, so .... I'm going for a "top-down, radio-up" drive folks!!
OP
flyer91
Bronze Member
I wanted to let any interested parties know that I am not being quiet because of any lack of support from Valley View on my LITW hoe issue.
Quite the contrary. Steve has been extremely helpful and responded by providing parts via overnight, technical support, and even offered to loan me a gauge (to do quantified tests) if I needed it.
The reason I've not posted anything positive as a result of his efforts, is because .... I went and broke my leg just as everything was showing up to effect the repairs.
My darn dog (he's a city dog) ran down our back hill and plowed into me at full bore, breaking my fib, my tib, and rotating my foot so that it pointed south when I was heading north.
So now it seems I may need to go in for a plate and screws.
In any case, my brother is coming up to help me (read: 'help my dear wife') get some of the 'time related' projects taken care of, and he will probably be able to get my hoe back on line so we can get the TLB in it's storage (one of the projects being finished) were it will stay until I can get about again.
So ... I haven't forgotten my promise to do the 'bleed down' tests discussed earlier, and post the results.
I just need some healin' time.
BTW: Anyone wanna buy a real fast dog?
Quite the contrary. Steve has been extremely helpful and responded by providing parts via overnight, technical support, and even offered to loan me a gauge (to do quantified tests) if I needed it.
The reason I've not posted anything positive as a result of his efforts, is because .... I went and broke my leg just as everything was showing up to effect the repairs.
My darn dog (he's a city dog) ran down our back hill and plowed into me at full bore, breaking my fib, my tib, and rotating my foot so that it pointed south when I was heading north.
So now it seems I may need to go in for a plate and screws.
In any case, my brother is coming up to help me (read: 'help my dear wife') get some of the 'time related' projects taken care of, and he will probably be able to get my hoe back on line so we can get the TLB in it's storage (one of the projects being finished) were it will stay until I can get about again.
So ... I haven't forgotten my promise to do the 'bleed down' tests discussed earlier, and post the results.
I just need some healin' time.
BTW: Anyone wanna buy a real fast dog?
