LK3054 Clutch & Splitting Help

[Ohming]

Hello, recently bought a 3054 with 300 hrs. The tractor barely moves. Checked the clutch linkage, thread color indicates the rod has been adjusted, linkage not bent. I even took the linkage off and at full engagement there is still no friction so I am assuming its time to split the tractor.

I have done extensive mechanics on vehicles, but not tractors. If someone out there has split this unit before / replaced the clutch, are there any tips to share? First time for everything, kinda lookin forward to getting greasy on this one.

 

[teg]

300 hours?!?! I can't help you with your tractor... but I can tell you a story that may or may not help.

Bought a backhoe from a farmer... we got to talking and said his TLB is going in the shop because it barely moves. We went over there and he would shift Forward and reverse and it barely moved. I asked about the other gear shifter... he never used that one. It was knocked out and it was either high/low or was 1,2,3 or 4th gear shifter. He put it in gear and was as good a new. I would look around a bit more.

 

[Ohming]

There is also a transport lever on commercial Toro mowers that wont allow it to move that can allow a cheap buy at auction.

Seems odd to me to for 300 hrs, but after extensive googling, it seems to be frighteningly common.

The tractor was a decent buy with a parts allowance though.

 

[bluechip]

Operating technique has more to do with clutch life than hours of use. the older LK3054 had a smaller clutch later models used a bigger clutch as does the LK30 that replaced the LK3054. Splitting is pretty straight forward. Anything that crosses the plane where the transmission belhousing attaches to the engine bellhousing must be disconnected. Put a wedge in the front axle at both sides to prevent the front end from pivoting. use 2 floor jacks on a smooth floor and slide the two parts away from each other. After you replace/repair you will need a way to line up 2 clutch disks, we use a NAPA universal alignment tool and it is amazing how easy it is to adapt to center the clutch disks. We use a special tool to rotate the PTO shaft to help alight the splines, but you can use half a driveline to do something similar. When disconnecting the hydraulic supply line from the pump, be ready to plug it or drain it or you will loose a lot of hyd. oil. Be sure to set up the 2 stage clutch properly. I cant think of much else and will qualify this by stating that I have supervised this job, I have not done it personally, so these are general remarks.

 

[Ohming]

Thanks Bluechip. Do you know if the larger disk from the LK30 will fit in the LK3054?

 

[Ohming]

Talked to a cluth reman shop. He offered an upgrade to a ceramic clutch plate (on the drive plate) for a small upcharge. If the clutch is the weak link on this machine, it may be a good option. Anyone ever had the ceramic?

 

[teg]

Don't know about clutches but I switched to ceramic brake pads and love the heck out of them... :ashamed: I know different item. 96 Dodge went through the factor brake pad set at 25k, I'm at 125k with ceramics and might need to check them again... last few times I checked they were still good. Would like to hear what anyone else say...

 

[MichiganIron]

The LK3054 is a 2 stage clutch. Be prepared to deal with the adjustment bolts between the first and second stage of the clutch pack. The head-out on these bolts (3) is critical for the clutch to operate correctly and not wear pre-maturely. It's just a matter of setting the head clearance properly and evenly with a feeler gauge. Make sure you lock-tite the adjustment bolts and the clutch mounting bolts. We also use RTV sealant between the bell housing and the engine. It really helps to keep moisture out of the clutch housing.

The alignment is probably the trickiest part since you have 2 clutch packs to align for re-assembly. Other than that, not a real bad job.

Check that throw-out bearing while you're in there.

 

[Ohming]

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll post up results when done.

 

[kenstrac]

The best way to align the 2 halves is what I do, I get long bolt or threaded rods long enough to line up before the shaft enters the clutch it slides in and self aligns it's self.