Load Binders continued...............

[johnday]

I didn't want to hijack Dargo's thread about the broken straps, even though this is related.

Does anyone know the proper way to use the ratcheting load binders, such as how many turns each end should be inside the ratcheting mechanism? How to know when you've got enough chain taken up? And how about rigging the chains back on themselves thru your D rings?
I've used the lever load binders many times, and dislike them very much. I've got 4, 16', 3/8" grade 70 chains with grab hooks [all US made]. And 2 ratcheting binders. I plan on looping 2 of the chains around the rear axle and thru D rings on rear of trailer. On the front axle, I'll run the chains around it, thru the front D rings, and use the binders on the front to take up the slack.
I was running 4 3" straps before Dargos little trip, but no more. The straps were 3300# WLL, but without looking back, I think I'm at 5600# WLL with the chains.


We can leave cellphone use out of this, PLEASE! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Egon]

John:

I take it the lever binders have whacked your knuckles a few times?? : /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Egon

 

[johnday]

Egon; It wasn't just the knuckles!! I slammed one down on my thumb a few times. Don't ask how many though! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rdln]

first you you find a 4 foot long piece 2" galvanized sch. 40 pipe, and then......hahaha.

I have never used ratcheting type but I have seen them worn out from use (threads worn) so maybe if others agree keep a little bit grease on the threads.

With my lever binders I lace hooks through the attaching point and then hook them onto the chain so when I put the binder in the middle and tighten leaving a dangling loop of chain is just enough to say fit a coffee can through.

Make sense?

On ratcheting I would start tightening with at least three inches of thread engagement.

 

[johnday]

Steve; Thanks. One question, how big of a coffee can? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[hhw]

This is how I hook mine:

1. Position equipment as needed
2. Layout (4) point ties
3. Loop chain through tie points or around attachment locations
4. Attach binders to chain to tighten.

a. If attaching levers, it seems like you always have to play with them a little bit; i.e. one link too tight one too loose. For this reason, if I use a combo of ratchet and lever binders I hook the levers first.

b. Depending on the amount of take up necessary on the ratchets I preset the travel on each end to allow for apporximately 1/3 of the threaded shaft to remain exposed when secure.

 

[Dargo]

Johnday, I'd also like to know the "proper" technique for the ratcheting binders. A good friend owns a construction business and he told me to be sure to leave the binder where the ratcheting motion will only hold the handle down against the bed of the trailer when bouncing along. It seemed awkward at first. I ratcheted the tractor down, and then moved the handle over to where it was against the floor and I'd have to pry up on it against the load. Just as a test, I left the other ratchet handle over on the other side; where it was free to move upwards, but gravity held it down against the bed and not the ratchet dog.

Sure enough, after a trip up to my other property to plant trees yesterday, both ratchet handles were over on the "pressure side down". The handle I'd left on the side I was told not to had flipped over during the ride to match it's partner. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif No harm done, but I can see where you don't want the ratchet handle loose and flopping around.

 

[tomnky]

Seems like I read somewhere that ratcheting binders were all that were acceptable to DOT anymore.

I may be all wet on this as My memory is sometimes murky at best.

 

[KiotiJohn]

Only having just bought my ratcheting binders and chains, I have used them twice. I found that I have to "unscrew" the threaded ends way out first, loop some chain around where I connect to the tractor and hook it on itself (just a small loop) and hook one end of the binder to the leftover chain, the other to the tie down on the trailer. This leaves a length of chain that is not involved in the binding, and I hook that loose end on something on the tractor with the excess lying on the trailer floor.
I ratchet until there's a tight, but not overly tight, grip on the connection points. I had read that the ratcheting binders can easily tighten the chains to their load rating, which wouldn't leave any leeway in case of a stress accident. So, I don't overly tighten them. I took the trailer on a little trip over some rough roads to test, and they held quite well like this.
I hope this is clear, as it's hard to describe just how this looks when done and I'm sure there are several safe ways to do it. I use four binders/chains by the way. John

 

[dummy]

<font color="blue"> I have seen them worn out from use (threads worn) </font> Last one I threw in the trash, the threads were crossed somehow. Strictly lever type for me now and they seem to be imo, easier and quicker to use.

 

[Av8r3400]

Yes, the levers are quicker and easier, but, a ratchet will not loosen itself like a lever can if the conditions are right. Rule of thumb on ratchets, keep as much thread in the body of the binder as possible.

Hooking a chain to itself is quite acceptable if you have "closed" or "grab" hooks on it (narrow hooks designed to grab the chain). Open or slip hooks should not be used for this purpose. They are for hooking onto an eye loop or D-ring or something like this.

Also, keep your binders and chains clean and lubricated. This will lengthen the life of both items considerably. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Darren]

It's probably overkill, but I once I get the binders on, I cinch the lever to the chain with a heavy cable tie by passing the tie through the eye of the lever. I've seen others do the same by wrapping the lever with a few loops of chain.

The thinking is that if something somehow loosens the chain enough that tension is removed from the load binder, it still won't pop loose.

 

[MrJoe]

I have stayed away from the lever type binders for years now. Used to work in a sawmill, used them all the time on the trucks. One day the usual load pickup driver didn't show up. Turns out he stood a bit too close to the lever binder when it was under load and flipped it up with a piece of pipe for leverage. Caught him right under the chin, he was wired together for weeks, never mind the reconstructive dental work. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif YEEOW! The ratchet type are 2x the price but safer to use IMHO /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[2nstonge]

No doubt after Dargo's thread there's been a run on chain and binders across the country. I was getting mine at TSC this morning and the guy in front of me was picking up all new chain and binders too - and - a locking tool box he was going to mount to his trailer. He said he's had a terrible problem over the past 18 months at job sites - chains & binders walking away from the trailer as he's off doing the tractor work. I can imagine the pit in your stomach at the end of the day to go load up the gear and find the chains, et al, have disappeared. What a pain! Not to mention the expense.

-Norm

 

[Phred]

Ill just add.....

1) back the screws out of the ratchet binder till the thread is ~ 1" from popping out.
2) Hook your chains so that they run though the D loops on the trailer and then hook back on themselves. You only need a short length of chain running through the D.
3) Pull the chain tight as you can.
4) Hook one end of the ratchet ~ 1 foot from the machine, and then the other end as far down the chain as you can. This should create a big loop of chain at the binder. Try to get it as tight as you can so you will have more thread to tighten with,
5) Ratchet away till tight.
6) Wrap that loop of excess chain around the binder.
7) Drive one mile or two and then re-tighten as needed.


Fred

 

[johnday]

Thanks for the replies. I checked out the setup the other day. I wound up welding 2 Drings to the rear trailer frame. Hooked up and drove down the road. I noticed a big difference in how the tractor/trailer and the truck rode, seemed quite a bit stiffer. It appears that with the chains and binders, the tractor doesn't bounce like it must have with the straps stretching and giving like they do. I liked the old ride better for comfort, but I don't think I'll break these chains and binders and loose the tractor. Really don't need the experience Dargo had!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif