Loader pressure test and adjustment

[Kep1a]

Hi again,
I have a model 100 loader on my 2840 Montana. Curved lift arms.
I want to have better lift capacity for my loader. I believe I have a low relief valve pressure issue and wonder what is the best way to check the relief pressure.

What is the proper way to check and set the relief pressure. IE: Shim size in relationship to pressure change. I don't want to over burden the system just want to be sure I'm in the range that I should be in as far as pressure vs lift capacity.

In a previous post I read where the 4550 has the same model 100 loader. The 4550 can lift more than twice the load that I can with mine so the loader is not the limitation. It seems the hydraulics and the chassis are the limiting factors. I added #300 suitcase weights to my box blade and have become keenly aware of how little weight the loader can lift (#500 with my forks, if that). A full bucket of dry 3/8" gravel will not budge and adds no load to the engine rpm. I think it is an issue with a low relief valve pressure setting.

The 3 point seems so much more powerful and drops the engine rpm when lifting heavy loads. The loader does not change the engine rpm even when at the relief bypass valve pressure limit.

What pressure should I see and what is the range of adjustment for the model 100 loader vs lift capacity?

PS: I love my tractor and so far I don't know how I lived without my tractor in the past.

Thanks.

 

[RNeumann]

I have no experience with the Montana tractor. But I recently adjusted the pressure on my Mahindra. The adjustment was easy enough- no shims for me. The factory max was somewhere around 2200psi. I am now over that pressure and happy with the results. Obviously going over the max isn’t something everyone would or should do but it helped me out a bunch.

I bought a gauge and put a QD on it that matched everything else I have- loader QDs, 3rd function etc. I plugged in the gauge, started the machine and opened the valve on the gauged circuit (in my case it was the 3rd function) and read the pressure. The pump will make full pressure a little above idle- say 1500rpm or so- yours may be a bit different. I adjusted the pressure regulator and repeated the test until I hit my desired pressure. It was a fairly straight forward task.

 

[Dave M7040]

You first need to understand the hydraulic flow on your tractor.

Many loader valves have a power beyond feature to feed the 3 pt hitch and any rear remotes.
Such a loader valve will have 7 hoses. Otherwise just 6.

Why this is relevant is that often the flow is from the pump to the loader valve and then to the rear of the tractor.
In this situation, the relief valve in the loader valve sets the upper limit on any other hydraulic system downstream even if that system has another relief valve.

You report that the 3 pt hitch lifts as it should which is confusing if everything is connected as I suggest.

Measuring the hydraulic pressure is a good idea. Most companies say to do it at max rpm's.

Is your loader valve operated by a lever(s) directly connected to the valve body and not by cables?
A valve which is not fully opening could cause what you are experiencing.

Dave M7040

 

[Teikas Dad]

I'm about to do a pressure test on my Kubota B3200 but I'm confused by something (confusing me isn't necessarily a difficult event!). I'm going to attach the gauge to the rearmost position on the front loader connectors. But, I was advised to test the pressure with the loader working to get the true pressure relief setting. I traced my lines yesterday and the connector I'm supposed to use is the line that lifts the arms on the loader (rearmost/lower cylinders). If I disconnect that line and put the pressure gauge there then there won't be any hydraulic pressure for those lift cylinders and put the loader under maximum pressure. Will the system spool up to maximum pressure with just the gauge in place or should I have a T made up to allow the pressure to still operate the cylinders while I'm testing? (Sorry to steal your thread!)

 

[radios1]

the pressure needs to be set to what it says in the service manual!. I've seen tractors that had broken lift arms because people set the pressure to what THEY think it should be!. that is also VERY UNSAFE!..:shocked:

 

[Dave M7040]

I'm about to do a pressure test on my Kubota B3200 but I'm confused by something (confusing me isn't necessarily a difficult event!). I'm going to attach the gauge to the rearmost position on the front loader connectors. But, I was advised to test the pressure with the loader working to get the true pressure relief setting. I traced my lines yesterday and the connector I'm supposed to use is the line that lifts the arms on the loader (rearmost/lower cylinders). If I disconnect that line and put the pressure gauge there then there won't be any hydraulic pressure for those lift cylinders and put the loader under maximum pressure. Will the system spool up to maximum pressure with just the gauge in place or should I have a T made up to allow the pressure to still operate the cylinders while I'm testing? (Sorry to steal your thread!)

You do NOT need the loader to be operating to see the relief valve setting.
Plug in the gauge, rpm's at max and send pressure to the gauge for a couple of seconds only.

I have attached Kubota and Kioti's test procedure for rear remotes to reassure you you do not need the loader to move to see the pressure setting.

Dave M7040

 

[RNeumann]

I'm about to do a pressure test on my Kubota B3200 but I'm confused by something (confusing me isn't necessarily a difficult event!). I'm going to attach the gauge to the rearmost position on the front loader connectors. But, I was advised to test the pressure with the loader working to get the true pressure relief setting. I traced my lines yesterday and the connector I'm supposed to use is the line that lifts the arms on the loader (rearmost/lower cylinders). If I disconnect that line and put the pressure gauge there then there won't be any hydraulic pressure for those lift cylinders and put the loader under maximum pressure. Will the system spool up to maximum pressure with just the gauge in place or should I have a T made up to allow the pressure to still operate the cylinders while I'm testing? (Sorry to steal your thread!)

Hydraulic Pressure Test Gauge, Use and Operation - YouTube

 

[WranglerX]

The gauge is the "maximum" work of the the hydraulic system not the actual loader cylinder.... Set by manual with gauge, having loader ram connected is sort of a misinformation in way manual is written....

Dale

 

[Teikas Dad]

You do NOT need the loader to be operating to see the relief valve setting.
Plug in the gauge, rpm's at max and send pressure to the gauge for a couple of seconds only.

I have attached Kubota and Kioti's test procedure for rear remotes to reassure you you do not need the loader to move to see the pressure setting.

Dave M7040

Thanks Dave, that was very helpful. I appreciate it.

 

[Xfaxman]

I don't understand why they recommend max RPM?

All of my machines will develop max pressure (open the relief valve) at idle.

If a pump is worn enough, it won't open the PRV at idle.