Have been working on an articulated loader tractor for some time. Pretty well done with the exception of the loader. Running a pump which if memory serves is about 12 gpm. The first four gallons is diverted to the steering system. The loader bucket is six feet wide. I would like to have the loader valve mounted outside the cab with cable control. Many are rated at ten gpm, others at fourteen or twenty. Is there any down side to getting the ten gpm valve. They are expensive, would like to get it right the first time. Can I trust the math? Not a lot of experience with hydraulics. Engine is a 3.1 V6, pump is driven by a serpentine belt with a good wrap running close to engine speed. Unsure what my pressures will be at this time. Would give more info on the pump which I bought new but is mounted such that cannot read the spec plate.
Loader valve, how many gpm?
- Thread starter roygage
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ptsg
Super Member
You want to match the valve as close as the flow that will be going through it.
So after the flow divider, there will be 8 GPM remaining. So I would go with the 10 GPM valve.
Too small of a valve = restriction on the system, therefore unnecessary heat and strain on the pump.
Too big of a valve = hard to feather the controls and also harder to make two functions at the same time.
Properly sized valve = easier to feather the controls and allows you to make two functions at the same time.
Now most pumps are rated at 2000 RPM with a max RPM of 3600. You don't want to over-speed the pump. You might to check the specs for your pump.
So after the flow divider, there will be 8 GPM remaining. So I would go with the 10 GPM valve.
Too small of a valve = restriction on the system, therefore unnecessary heat and strain on the pump.
Too big of a valve = hard to feather the controls and also harder to make two functions at the same time.
Properly sized valve = easier to feather the controls and allows you to make two functions at the same time.
Now most pumps are rated at 2000 RPM with a max RPM of 3600. You don't want to over-speed the pump. You might to check the specs for your pump.
PTSG, thank you for response. Feel much more comfortable using the ten GPM after reading it. Watched your you tube video. Impressed in particular you ability to build your own cylinders.
Here is a short video my grandson made of ours this weekend.
Having a little fun(2) - YouTube
Here is a short video my grandson made of ours this weekend.
Having a little fun(2) - YouTube
Appreciate that. Die is cast, guess we are going to find out. Several other concerns also. 60chain drive to the back differential. Have a good support bearing for the back of trans. Little concerned about the nose of the pinion shaft. Also concerned our center pivot is not strong enough for the loader. It is the front spindle and hub from a 70 C50 Chevy.
ptsg
Super Member
That's a nice and welt built machine you have there roygage. An automatic transmission with a manual gearbox for the ranges is very clever and it's a nice combo. It gives you the ability to easily shuttle back and forth without the need for a clutch.
Definitely take into consideration what nyone mentioned. Most pumps just have bushings on the shafts that are not meant to take side loads.
Here in Europe, it's very common to use a bearing support on these hydraulic pumps but I'm having a hard time finding that in the US. This is what I mean: "Pump bearing support, Group 3, Cylindrical shaft 6 holes | Bearing Supports | Hydraulic Pumps"
You may have other solutions there that I'm not aware of.
Looking forward for updates on this machine.
Definitely take into consideration what nyone mentioned. Most pumps just have bushings on the shafts that are not meant to take side loads.
Here in Europe, it's very common to use a bearing support on these hydraulic pumps but I'm having a hard time finding that in the US. This is what I mean: "Pump bearing support, Group 3, Cylindrical shaft 6 holes | Bearing Supports | Hydraulic Pumps"
You may have other solutions there that I'm not aware of.
Looking forward for updates on this machine.
kennyd
Advertiser
That is an awesome project!
Is the center pivot more separated than on the original hub of the c50? You could really get away with bushings on a center pivot.
I dont think the pinion shaft is going to like that side load either. That is fairly easy to add a support bearing to. As for the #60 chain im not sure on that. With all that gear reduction your going to have a boat load of torque.
What rear end are you useing?
I dont think the pinion shaft is going to like that side load either. That is fairly easy to add a support bearing to. As for the #60 chain im not sure on that. With all that gear reduction your going to have a boat load of torque.
What rear end are you useing?
The C50 hub has had the king pin ears cut off it and bolts directly to a heavy steel plate which has a pair of trailer hubs and axle stubs welded to it which allows the right to left movement. My main concern is the C50 spindle bending when the loader actually gets put to work. I plan on finishing the loader first and if I need to rebuild the center pivot will do it later.
When I started the project 15 years ago I was pitching horse poop by hand and was desperate for a loader. I have since bought a nice cabbed tractor, this project has since sat for ten years till my grandson got interested last winter hence a push to finish it up.
As for the pump and side pull, I would rather drink a gallon of snot than change it at this point. (-: In the layouts defense I work on cars/light trucks for a living, power steering pumps run for years with only a small bushing or bearing for support. This pump is located in the same position and runs by the same belt/tensioner as the AC compressor did. It's bearing was also reletvly small.
The rear ends are what I call 14 bolt Chevies. Full floating, narrowed. A substantial pinion bearing to take the side load of the 60 chain yet I am concerned. One thing I never considered was the front pinion bearing is set in a flange which bolts to the housing with about 6 bolts. Worry that flange might not hold up well.
Enough things to worry about we may just name it The Glass Slipper. For now it's running and so plan on playing with it and see what happens. Had considered mounting a front snow blower with its own engine thinking would be less stress on the tractor but as of now looks like a loader tractor it will be.
Those 14b rear ends are stought units. I know the pinion flange your talking about and i believe the bolts dont hold the sheer force of the side load on the pinion.
14b pinion support - Google Search. Take a look at this pic.
14b pinion support - Google Search. Take a look at this pic.
I thank you for the picture of the 14 bolt. Been so long since I had it apart I could not recall how well into the housing the flange was set. Also had forgotten the pinion had a nose bearing like a nine inch Ford. Seeing it gives me some hope. (-:
