Grading LOADER VS. BOX BLADE

Bird · Nov 2, 2005

Just couldn't resist, Eddie, knowing of all the equipment you have and the beautiful work you do. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

SacandagaBrad · Nov 2, 2005

I was going to reply the other day recommending a dozer, but resisted since it seemed that you plan on completing the project with your tractor, and I for one enjoy completing a project with my own equipment. But now that the dozer has been mentioned, boxing out a road down 10" by 500' long and probably 12' to 16' is a lot of cutting and dragging material, at least 200 cy +/-. A dozer would be my choice for getting everything cut level, then the FEL and box blade to spread your material. A lot depends on the site conditions and how much time you have. I just put in a driveway around my new garage foundation in heavy clay with my TC-24D. Almost bought a box blade to cut it in, but I don't have anywhere to put the dirt, so I had my excavator dig it out and truck it away before he left, then put down the fabric and spread 100 tons of crusher run with my rear blade. I needed to get it done quick so the builder had places to stage lumber and park equipment. It turned out well and I'm glad I didn't try to move that heavy clay with a bb. If time is a consideration, you might want to get someone in there with a dozer to get things started. Just a thought, either way it will turn out fine with some practice.

Will need pics!

Brad

GaryE · Nov 2, 2005

George,

As someone who has been skeptical (and still is) of Box Blades I can give you my take.

If you are looking to use it as a Bulldozer attachment, forget it. If you are willing to put some practice into it’s use, you will be surprised at it’s abilities. If you are willing to go slow and ride your 3PH control, you can get some very good results. As for rocks (we have a few in Maine!), forget it, use your BH or at least install a toothbar on your FEL. Then use the BB for clean up, it will do a great job.

Unless you have a lot of free time to do your driveway, I would bring in a bulldozer to do the rough work the do the finish work and maintains with your BB and FEL.

As for maintaining your driveway, the BB is the way to go. But you have to get it in first!

Hope this is some help,

Gary

kmdigital · Nov 2, 2005

Oh, and as for stone, I would definitely use crushed asphalt if it is available. Great stuff, and I like it MUCH better then any limestone I have tried. And I am sure you will get plenty of opinions on this also /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

inveresk · Nov 2, 2005

I've plenty of time on my hands. This is the way I earn my living, buying older, dilapidated properties and turning them around. For the next couple of years I'll do nothing but work on this project, maybe take the odd design commission if it doesn't eat up too much of my time on the farm.

I've decided to go with the box blade and have to go off island tomorrow to pick it up and also to inspect some 1 1/2 inch minus roadstone available from a quarry nearby. First delivery of roadstone should be made next week by which time we should have completed felling and stacking the log deck.

I'll start cutting the drive early next week and will post progress photographs of the virgin lawn I've to tear up, and of progress along the way. I've plenty space to dump topsoil and have a ready use for it to regrade the depression which will be left once the existing house - which is located within a cutting on the hillside - is relocated within the woodland.

Thanks for all the sound - if sometimes conflicting - advice. TBN is a terrific community. I really enjoy dipping into it daily for my ration of humour and good old down to earth wisdom.

GaryE · Nov 2, 2005

Please keep us posted on your progress….Good luck with the project!

Gary

SCB · Nov 3, 2005

here's a photo of before work with a boxblade. [image]http://[/image]

SCB · Nov 3, 2005

here is a photo of after the boxblade and ready for seed. I think with practice and patience, you can do alot with a box blade.

inveresk · Nov 3, 2005

That's a couple of impressive before and after shots, Steve. I appreciate you posting them.

Did you grade that bank with the box blade too? If so, what is the technique to achieving those profiles?

I picked up a 6 foot Braber blade this morning so will start to set out the new road tomorrow and begin cutting it on Monday.

SCB · Nov 4, 2005

George,
I'm not sure what bank you are referring to. My land is relatively flat, It has the usual highs and lows associated with raw land, but there was very little slope to work with. Maybe the picture has a strange angle that appears to be a bank? I have done some work on another property that I graded a slopeinto. You can set the angle of the box to cut in angles to the grade pretty easy.

3RRL · Nov 4, 2005

( IMHO you definitely need a box blade.
I find that the trick to using the box blade properly is how you set the top link. This controls the angle of attack of the cutting edge whether it just skims the surface or digs down. )

AMEN, I couldn't agree more. Being a new tractor owner myself, my personal experience is that the boxblade was easier to get a smooth surface for me. My road is over 1/2 mile long and curvy. I was able to set the cutting angle so that I could make a slight "crown" on the road. I couldn't get the FEL to tilt and found that I kept creating the same angle, only deeper. But with the boxblade, I adjusted the top and lower links so it cut more on one side than the other and got great results...for me, that is. I'm interested in the hydraulic link adjustment that I've seen on some other threads.
I used the FEL to move the excess dirt piles and rocks and such.
I plan on making a sort of plow to attach to the boxblade on one end to scrape in the gutters but have not started that project yet. I need to figure out how to counter balance the stress better before I do it.

inveresk · Nov 4, 2005

I've posted some shots of the project, and progress made today, on this thread . . .

Progress shots

countrybumpkin · Nov 8, 2005

I like using the drag scraper type box blade , they work really nice for leveling the ground. But you need a rear remote to work them. drag scraper

LBrown59 · Nov 9, 2005

I don't have anywhere to put the dirt, so I had my excavator dig it out and truck it away before he left, 
XXXXXXXXXXX 
One thing I've learned is you never have enough extra dirt on hand when you have a TLB so never haul any of it away.

9 years ago I had about 6 loads trucked away to make room to build my 30x52 pole garage.
Today I could use that dirt and many more truck loads to boot.

Had I been smart I would have piled it up somewhere else and kept it here.

Reg · Nov 17, 2005

Anyone try the Level Best for grading ?
I only just found it on ATI's web site, having searched for 5 days.
It looks expensive, although as with most pro tools it probably pays off quickly if used frequently.

http://www.level-best.com/

Any idea on price ?

BobReeves · Nov 17, 2005

Wow, looks like a Box Blade with Guage wheels /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

countrybumpkin · Nov 17, 2005

I like the last pic showing the Draw bar opition, Thats what I thought about building for my box blade just had not got around to it.

Reg · Nov 18, 2005

Sure enough, it IS "a box blade with gage wheels" (-:

I was as interested in the laser leveling part of it.
Given some of the claims in other threads; maybe the laser, controls, hydraulics, ..."automation", etc. might not add as much in function as they do in co$t. Credits and congrats to the inventive folk who have been adding gage wheels to box scrapers, rakes and rear blades. It is simpler, easier to deal with and cheaper than trying to mimic the big graders with mid blades. Well, it sort of BECOMES a mid blade.

I had a brief chat with somebody less than a mile from my house about the LevelBest last week-end. He seems to be some sort of part time rep for it, so I'll take a salt shaker along the next time I drop by - but I probably WILL drop by and maybe have him give me a demo (and pricing).

I'll post what I find out.

HomeBrew2 · Nov 18, 2005

Yes, it can act similar to a mid blade. Those of us who have used receiver mounts, or such, have the ability to vary the length of the supports/stingers. When used at full 36" length, they permit agressive cutting of hills, ie, not following the contours closely. When shortened to minimum, the system will follow the contours more closely which, is very good for spreading gravel in an area where there is a several percent slope differential, ie, vertical curves.