Loading tires

[ctown75]

It has the same effect as loading the rear tires but without adding extra weight to the rig.

Personally, I just don't mow if I think my tractor is gonna get stuck.

It's been a few years since I've mowed with that allis, But I know the mower I'm on now is at least 2500 lbs lighter(54" cut lawn tractor), and it never gets stuck or leaves ruts, even when the ground is saturated enough to leave mud trails where I've mown- so you can't say lighter isn't better. I'm not a scientist, or mathematician(or an english teacher so lay off the spelling LOL) I just do what works for me. I'm not trying to tell anybody they are wrong, because what it boils down to is that it's his/your tractor on his/your property, so whatever works best is what you/he need to do. I was just trying to offer up some advice

 

[LBrown59]

Personally, I just don't mow if I think my tractor is gonna get stuck.

That's the key.

 

[Conservation]

I am pondering what to do about weight also. I have larger turfs on now, and even with chains on my 4wd JD 1050, it pushes sideways real easy in the snow using the rear blade angled. Truefully it just about makes it useless in the snow. I am getting some R1 tires for the back of the proper diameter, which will help I'm sure. But I would like to add a bunch of weight in the winter. I will be switching tires twice a year, and don't want to kill myself with filled tires. JD actually wants my first born and also his first born for wheel weights that onlyadd about 220#'s to the tractor. ($1300!) I am scoping auctions in the spring to look for old weights I can adapt. I have a bunch of lead pigs, and thought about having a circular plate cut which I could bolt pigs to. It would be awkward and take forever to install and remove. I can't use a weight box on the three point since I use the rear blade for snow.
My theory on tractiion is that you need penetration in the snow, and floatation if you don't want to tear things up. Mud depends on the soil and type of work being done. If you can get away with staying on top with turfs, great. If you need traction, you just have to dig in.

 

[ctown75]

I have turf tires on my MT160. They are relatively useless you're mowing or something similar. They are huge too- 35-15-15. Very wide. not much good when you need to grab anything, but they will definitely float! Pretty sure that thing would tread water with those things on there

 

[Conservation]

I hear ya! Mine are 42 or 44's. Won't' tip over though!
Anyone with some innovative ways to add weight to the rear without creating a twice a year hazzard when changing tires?

 

[Gary Fowler]

Let me jump in with another scenario. Any one who has ever gotten stuck in the mud with a truck will know that if you want to get out, without a chain and another vehicle, you put some weight in the back usually by having some friend stand on the bumper. Just spinning your wheel without the extra weight digs holes. Add a few hundred pounds of weight and you can pull right on through and the ruts are no deeper than the spinning tires put to start with. I am definitely in favor of loading the tires on all tractors including the front for extra traction on the rear. If you load the front tires also that weight will also transfer to the drive tires of a 2 WD tractor. The rear tires when loaded and pulling a load like a disc will tend to pull the front end up. When it does this the extra weight in the loaded front tires will transfer to the rear and add more traction. Loaded front tires will give you some stability on hills also contrary to what some folks here have stated. They think the front end swivels to an unlimited amount and thus the tractor will roll before it takes any of the weight. On any wide front end tractor the front axle will only move about 4 inches at the pivot point before it bottoms out on the frame. I have seen countless tractors traveling down the road with one rim removed because of a flat. YOU can get home on one tire this way.

 

[ctown75]

And as always there is a safe way of doing things and alternatively the above way ^^^^^ of doing things. I still argue that lighter in the begining for mowing is the best alternative.(kinda like prevention is the best medicine) If you're stuck yeah you want the weight. But I don't wanna get stuck. Unless you've cheater slicks on the rear of your 9n you're not just gonna free spin when the goin gets tough. I live 1/4 mi from the second largest farmer in the county on 2000 hay acres alone....His mechanic told me they have 12 AC d17s on the books alone on hay, and they are just running rakes and tedders. he has additional tractors on balers, mowers, and bigger ones yet on his other crops. Also about a mile from the farmer's co-op where almost everyone local takes their grain, and I live on the only state route leading there, never ONCE have I seen even ONE of the literally 'countless' tractors that pass my house on a single front wheel, unless it was designed that way of course. Maybe I'm not paying enough attention

 

[shakin]

i run chains on my 43" r-4's works like a skidder in the snow, i'll find out this summer down back never had the chains on in warm weather, probably wont want them but if it is muddy and i really need to go there, i'll deal with some ruts to avoid getting stuck.

 

[Diamondpilot]

We use WW Fluid with good results. Got the tool to put it in at Napa for $20. Do not waste your money on the TSC one. Easy to do with a bucket and some gravity. Fill 75%.

Chris

 

[Gary Fowler]

The comment about running on one wheel was not made to suggest that it was safe or advisable, only that it was possible and to let it be known that the front axle has a limited range of swivel thus by loading your front tires, you contribute to the stability of the overall machine and the overall traction.
By the way, most real farmers are ingenious at figuring out how to do something with nothing and do it by themselves. This was especially true before the advent of 2 way radios and mobile telephones where you can call up for assistance from the local tire repair place and they will come fix your flat for you. When you are 10 miles from help and no way to call, necessity turns to invention using the tools at hand.

Back to the original topic: If you dont want to get stuck, you better have some weight on your side. Unless you are swimming or in a boat, the more weight you have the better your traction and the less your tires spin. To cross soft ground, you have two choices, have enough weight to have good traction or go fast enough across it that your equipment doesnt sink. Since most tractors wont attain that kind of speed, then your only choice is the additional weight.