Log hauler built from running gear

[blupen]

I'm looking at running gear to make a log hauler. I don't want to go to big as I will load it to the max when given the opportunity. I will pull with a JD4500, apprx 40 hp, tractor and am concerned with the weight pushing the tractor around. I haul firewood from neighbors property and like to skid full length and store for a season before I cut/split. The neighbor just put shale on some of his roads and I don't want to mess them up by skidding. I have a fel and chains/log tongs to load logs. I am looking for different ideas on side bolsters and any experience someone might have. Thanks!

 

[Groo]

I'd build a wheeled drey (sp?) to be very tongue heavy so the tractor's brakes will come into play.

I'm guessing the 3 point can lift over a ton, use that strength. don't build it like a car trailer.

 

[blupen]

Thanks for the advice. I am not sure what a drey is but I agree the tongue weight is important. The problem is I need to unhook the wagon to load it with the loader on the tow tractor.

 

[Rio_Grande]

When we skid logs out I built a logging arch for my 3 point. Lower it down on the log and I had chain hooks welded on each side to chain to. Pick it up and go. If the tractor starts to loose the tug of war downhill, drop the 3 point and the log will dig in. Kinda like emergency brakes!

Sounds like maybee you dont want to skid, in that instance what about the same set up on the tractor then build a 2 wheel dolly for the back of the log, set it up on the dolly chain it down and then pick up with the 3 point. You would have to figure out a way to make it track properly though. Kinda lick a car going backwards the tires automaticly center, maybee something like that?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Could you set up a trailer brake and brake controller on the wagon running gear? I'm sure there would be a way but I am not positive how or the cost but it would be a nice feature if your dealing with hills. Then you could use a standard running gear, weld up the supports and bolsters (make the bolsters removable if you need to) and still have the ease of hooking/unhooking the wagon without needing to carry blocks for jacking it up. Also, if your going to hook/ unhook often find a running gear with an extendable tounge. Then you just need to get close and hook up, back up till the tounge latches and drive away.

 

[Groo]

Thanks for the advice. I am not sure what a drey is but I agree the tongue weight is important. The problem is I need to unhook the wagon to load it with the loader on the tow tractor.

Dray dray - definition and meaning
Dad has 2 he got from the son of an old school lumber guy. One uses runners, the other uses a heavy truck front axle welded to the frame and welded up so it cant turn. Either one fully loaded is a touch much for the little Kubota (a 23hp one). We generally use a dozer or a 1 ton 4x4 to move the drays once they are loaded. The one that uses 4" pipes for runners gets used more since we can load more on it (the floor is lower and its a bit wider since the other one is between the tires) and don't have to work around the tires. I suggested wheels since you are concerned about damaging the road, but to be honest, the runners aren't that harsh on the roads since they weight is spread out over the whole length. we just drag that one with a chain. That is a problem going down hill in the winter though.

Unhooking and hooking shouldn't be a problem with a wheeled one. Put a "foot" on the bottom of the tongue (or just set it on a log), so you can drop the 2 point bar below the tongue. Then after hooking it up, you just pick it up and drive off.

 

[GrizzyDan]

Agreed, just weld in the reciever a bit higher on the tongue of the trailer, or install a foot, this makes for easy hook up.. just back up to it, line it up, raise your 3ph and clamp it down no lifting necessary. Maybe a foot with a spike below a pad so you can drop it just about anywhere and not have to worry about blocking the tires, the spike will anchor it while a wide pad won't let it sink down below what your 3ph can grab it with. Just a thought.

I love how this guy has his trailer setup.. 2-3 tube verticals per side and you can load and unload with ease with forks. And that grapple.. /drool

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Q_nXfjzW8]My home made log loader Video # 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Groo]

we use 4 small logs for the sides. we can almost always pull one and usually pull the second to roll the logs off. If we have to cut one off, no big deal either. just make another one from a stick too small for lumber. sometimes I just tip the runnered one over into the pile.

 

[crazyal]

You could get yourself some mobile home axles and if your tractor has brake lights it would be easy to set up a brake controller. You just need to find somewhere to protect it from the weather. Parts would be cheap.

 

[muddstopper]

We used to skid pretty big logs with a farm tractorI cant remember the log ever pushing the tractor off a steep hill, but of course going down hill was usually when we opened the throttle and let her rip. I have pulled heavy trailers with a 4610su ford and I can tell you it aint no fun going down even a slight grade with no brakes on the trailer. It aint going to stop until the ground levels out or you hit something. You can mount a hydraulic surge controller on the trailer tounge and 12v from the tractor to supply electric trailer brakes. the surge controler will activate the electric brakes as soon as it detects the trailer pushing the tractor. If your tractor has brake lights, you can hook into them with an electric brake controller. I would do one way or the other, but if you have any steep grades to drag your loaded trailer on, your only asking for trouble if you dont put some kind of braking system on the tractor.