Log home wood treatment ?

[Mike Costello]

Check out Perma-Chink Systems on the internet. I used their products exclusively for all the exterior and interior log walls when I built my log home in 2004. Still looks good.
One thing I liked about their products is that they are not oil based and are easy to apply. Mike.

 

[studor]

I have found the reputation of Sikkens to be higher than deserved. My father urged me to use their products 15 years ago -- It proved to be some of his worst advice. After several failures using their products on fences, decks and cabins I now choose another brand -- JMHO
On the other hand, all of the Perma Chink products I used restoring my 1862 log cabin have been in place for five years with no signs of deterioration.

 

[PILOON]

About 50 yrs ago I built a log cabin.
Back then we'd use raw linseed oil diluted with turpentine or varsol.
I faithfully applied coats over the years and recently scraped the accumulated finish off as it was quite brackish from mildew etc.

Logs were extreemly well preserved and the resulting finish was simply stunning rich golden color..
Logs had soaked in the mixture and preserved the wood to the point that even the cracks or splits were not showing the slighest signs of rot.

Another cabin was varathaned and was simply a bear to rejuvinate.
We sand blasted the whole cabin (30 X 40) with a big 200 CFM rig.(took all of a day to do) and it came out great.
That one we applied Siekins finish on it and 5 yrs later it still looks good.
I used only the #1 Seikins as it is a penetrating stain and not rhe #2 as that one is a hard finish that will crack, chip and retain water causing flaking.

From having coated cedar decks I learned not to use deck stain or #2 as they finish hard and glossy, chip and retain dampness thus causing blistering and mildew.
Cedar is much too soft a grain for hard finishes that crack and chip then flake, OK on siding and denser woods IMO.
A heavy dog will even cause chipping of #2 by simply walking on a cedar deck.

 

[studor]

From having coated cedar decks I learned not to use deck stain or #2 as they finish hard and glossy, chip and retain dampness thus causing blistering and mildew.

Piloon -- I agree 100% but ya gotta wonder why they call it deck stain
The problem I had with number 1 (penetrating stain) is it did not penetrate pine -- so after using a deck stain that you cannot use on decks, a penetrating stain that did not penetrate, dealing with a customer service group that at the time was PAINFULL to deal with and paying a premium price I switched to products that don't have those minor irritations

 

[SpringHollow]

I have found the reputation of Sikkens to be higher than deserved. My father urged me to use their products 15 years ago -- It proved to be some of his worst advice. After several failures using their products on fences, decks and cabins I now choose another brand -- JMHO
On the other hand, all of the Perma Chink products I used restoring my 1862 log cabin have been in place for five years with no signs of deterioration.

I can not speak for their current products but we used their oil based Cetol systems for all of our solar rooms (interior and exterior) and exterior wood when i did construction and they lasted many many years before just needing a top coat. And the exterior of a solar room is a pretty harsh environment. Never had pealing like paints and protected better than stains.

Ken

 

[Temp97]

Speaking of Carpenter Bees, WOW!!! I've been on TBN talking about this last year and my problems have doubled - THEY INVITED THEIR FRIENDS - I was trying to kill them last night with a power washer. 45 minutes got one, 4-5 feet way, direct hit, flew away and thanked me for the shower. I'm starting to feel like the grounds keeper in "Caddy Shack"...

 

[hobie]

I could use help with these buggers as well. Tried typical wasp and bee sprays, filling holes with wood putty, hours with fly swatter...They're back in force!

 

[ragkar]

This bit about carpenter bees is sorta on-topic as they love log houses. I have to fight them on mine each spring.
The solution - carpenter ant powder Squirt some of this dust into the holes and then wait a couple days. Then plug the holes with 3/8 inch wood mushroom plugs and a bit of wood glue. The plugs are the ones that hide screws on towel racks and are sold by hardware stores.

Anecdote - Last year I dusted 14 holes and then climbed down off the ladder. While waiting I heard a plop and found a bee on it's back on the ground. A size 9 shoe took care of that guy. Within the next ten minutes ten more bees fell out of their holes.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Using the pressure washer to remove the mildew is pretty much a waste of time. It isn't going to come out. I had that done when I first built my log house 30 years ago and it didn't work. My house is made of white pine. The best wood preservative is Cuprinol bar none. I bought a 55 gallon drum of it and used it until it ran out and because of the mildew stains I use a slightly dark redwood stain periodically. I really hated to stain it, I wanted it to be a natural wood color, but the midlew stains sort of forced my hand. How those occurred is an unpleasant story of shipping snafus and lawsuits.

Here is a picture I took a couple of years ago:

 

[Temp97]

Found this video on you tube. Built one last night and hung it up. If I even get one bee I will consider it a major victory. Nice house SMFCPACFP

YouTube - The Best Carpenter Bee Trap Information