Log Homes

   / Log Homes #11  
When I wasn younger and single, I built about a 3600 sq ft log home in the mid 80's. The house was great, maintenance was not all that much more than any other house. The "save thousands of dollars and do it yourself" was the biggest misconception. That and the fact that I was my own general contractor so you had to hump to get the bank payouts. Every aspect was me. I started subterranean, excavating the foundation with a JD55 crawler, did the footers and worked my way up a steep sided gambrel roof for the shingles. Never more than four friends at any one time onsite helping. Once weather tight, then me and my dad on the inside. Plumbing, wiring, kitchen cabinets, tile flooring and countertops, stone work around the wood burner, trim, 7,500 sq ft of t&g cedar on the inside cathedral ceiling, bathrooms. Every free minute was spent working on it. Holidays, vacations, evenings until 2am.. head to a place I rented, sleep, head to work, then back to the loghome site...it burned me out. I sold it a few years later when my daughter was born to get her into more of a neighborhood with friends and places to ride a bike. Would I do it again? Yep. Originally I only sub'ed the block work on the foundation and the carpet installation, this time I would subcontract alot more and plan, plan, plan...get some more ideas, and then plan somemore. There was one other major drawback. When it was finished and snow was falling outside, friends would stop over, they would sit in front of the fire, the warm golden glow off the log walls and get so relaxed...they wouldn't leave.
 
   / Log Homes #12  
Frank,

Don't let all of the bad comments outway the good. I looked
into log homes and just decided that there seemed to be
a higher level of risk of having problems with this type of
home compared to a conventional one. I'm sure there are
good log home builders, I know of one, but there are also
some real thiefs out there as well. But they exist with
conventional builders as well.

Do a search on yahoo or google and start reading. And
start asking questions to the suppliers. There are some web
sites that are for log home owners and they have some
interesting discussions.

In the end we decided that log homes just where not for us.
Just depends on one's requirements.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Log Homes #13  
We have a log home near Pittsburgh, PA. Bought it in 1998, from a young couple who started construction in 1996, but were having financial troubles. We continue to finish it, we love it, and yes, there are pros and cons.
It is a custom design from Original Log Homes out of British Columbia. It has 12-18" diameter round logs (Engelman Spruce) with Swedish saddle knotch locking corners. This house isn't going anywhere unless it burns to the ground! The logs are cut in British Columbia, and air dried for 2 years. Then they design and build your house in British Columbia. They number the logs, tear it apart, load it on a truck, and drive it to your site. They hire a local crane, and erect the frame. The first couple had already built a basement, and did the rest of the work themselves (roof, interior, plumbing, HVAC, electricity, cable, phone, gas lines, etc.).
When we bought the home, we were told that settling would occur for seven years from the date it was constructed. Therefore, most of the trim work was not completed where it would meet a log wall. Where it was done, it is off, and will need to be redone. The home seems to be done settling. The doors that we had realligned in 1998 are fine. The spaces left above the doors and windows seems to have stabilized, so these can be permanently covered, now. The effects of settling don't seem to be too big a deal - I think the first 2 years are the worst. The finish is really important - the first couple just put a coat of CWF on it, which is good for about 2 years. We talked to I-Wood Care in New York, and they sent us a guide on how to redo the finish (using products that they sell, of course!) We sprayed a mixture of bleach, Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP), and water with a garden sprayer, power-washed the house, and then (very important) sprayed 2 coats of PeneTreat (a borate treatment which repels mildew and insects) with the garden sprayer. Then we used an airless sprayer followed by brushes to apply Sherwin Williams Woodscapes Stain. This is supposed to be good for 5 years, and we shouldn't ever have to do the Penetreat again. After 1 year, the house still looks brand new. Now that the house is done settling, we will caulk all of the log seams and joints. The real fight on the finish is waged by sunlight, not rain. Big roof overhangs are the key to keeping the logs looking new - just good design. Speaking of design, you just have to be smart about providing enough closets and storage space - we are very happy with our space, but a full basement and attached garage or mud room are a good idea.
Insects are a fact with log homes, so we pay a pest company to come out once a quarter, for about $100 per visit. Then we keep our eye out for wasp nests and spray when we find them. The pest company has chemicals that really limit the wasps and bore bees. A note about bore bees - they usually bore UP, so roof overhangs with wood soffets are usually where they attack. Our solution is to use a brown aluminum or vinyl soffet material except where the dramatic overhangs have very nice tongue and groove board. I have not seen any bore bees this year, after 1 year of the pest company services.
Round logs have lots of horizontal surface, and therefore need to be dusted frequently. I think that's why square and D-shaped logs are so popular, but our round logs look incredible and we love them!
People mentioned quiet - no kidding! When we first moved in, a huge storm was raging one night, and we didn't even know until a door blew open! These homes are so solid - you just know it could last forever if taken care of.
We studied log homes for a long time before buying one already completed. The package prices have to be compared really closely between companies so you can see exactly what is included. I was told the cost to have a home constructed would cost about the same as the package materials, not including well and septic and other hookups. You should probably pick a manufacturer who has been doing it a while and has a representative in your area that you think you can work well with.
It's a good idea to know how you are going to light the interior spaces because all those logs make it dark! We have had good success with track lighting. We love our home, because there are a lot of white, drywall walls inside - this contrasts well with the natural spruce color of the logs, and provides some more light. It's a good idea.
We have 40 acres of woods in a fairly rural area, with about 2 acres of yard, and neighbors close by. The setting is perfect for a log home, and I think finding a buyer would not be a problem because it looks "right" in its setting. Certain types of log homes would just look silly in a suburban housing plan.
So, my overall opinion is that log homes require more maintenance than a brick home, but if designed and treated correctly, are wonderful places to live. Hope this helps somebody thinking about it.

Brad
Satoh S650G
 
   / Log Homes #14  
"Speaking of design, you just have to be smart about providing enough closets and storage space"

I think the Europeans have us beat in this area. When I first moved to Germany in the 70's, the first think that surprised me was that the rental apartments I was looking at had no closets or light fixtures in them. Just straight walls and wires hanging out of the ceilings. You have to own your own light fixtures to rent there.

They use portable closits/wardrobes. The disadvantage is that you have to buy those. The advantage is that you have absolute control over the layout of your bedroom. Your closet matches your design and is where you want it to be. If you want to change it later, no problem.

They also have these large wall units to go in the living room for nik-naks, books, bars and entertainment centers. I think these would look good in a log house.

Attached is a picture of one made of Oak that I bought in Nuremberg back in 1978, It has traveled back and forth from Missouri to Germany twice and is just as solid as the day I bought it. The only change I made to it was that I replaced the original glass shelves with safety glass. Right after I moved here, a sonic boom made by a fighter from Whiteman AFB caused the top shelf to break and it went through the two shelves under it breaking some of my wife's collectible's.
 

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   / Log Homes #15  
my home in western NC...Southern Yelllow pine "D shaped" logs....spline of plastic in center groove with 'invisible" caulking....no chinking
model my Southland Log homes that was customized

3 years old...no settling....only minor cracks

if on a basement foundation.....i would advise full poured concrete walls as opposed to concrete block......my basement walls are 8" thick poured concrete with waterproofing pvc and a chemical spray...20 year guarantee......no moisture found as of date

main problem with log home construction is finding contractors and subcontractos who know what they're doing.....most of mine didn't
still.....the materials used were good
 

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   / Log Homes #16  
Confused:
What's the atvantage of poured concrete walls over concrete block walls. Most specifications will call for 10 in. blocks. Either one will preform admirally if installed properly.
No settling?? Were kiln dried logs used? Or are you talking about foundation?
Egon
 
   / Log Homes
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I would have to speculate that since the poured concrete walls have less joints, there is less of a chance of water seeping through. Also, the poured walls I've seen look like they are ready to finish. They are indented for easy insulation installation and need no studs for drywall.

BTW, the concrete blocks used today seem to me to be not as strong as the old cinder blocks. They crumble alot easier.
 
   / Log Homes
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Nice place! That's what I mean when I tell people about log homes. They seem to picture a 2 room bungalow in the Poconos, or the picture on the Log Cabin Syrup bottle!/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
   / Log Homes #19  
If you are ever in the Northern Michigan area I suggest you find Lewiston and take a drive through the home areas of Garland Resort. All homes built on the four golf courses and surrounding properties must be of log construction.
They have what the locals refer to as "Millionaire Row" where all of the 20 or so log homes are valued at a minimum of one million dollars and some are at least twice that. The other "sub divisions" have many homes worth well over half a million dollars all of log construction.
The main resort building at Garland was once the largest building built with log construction and is still within the five largest. There was a fire at Garland a couple of years ago that destroyed much of the main lodge but it has been fully restored.
If anyone has a few bucks tucked away Garland is selling it's hunting camp which consists of about 1600 acres of which 1100 is surrounded by a 10' high deer proof fence. Inside this 10" fence is another 160 acres surrounded by a fence designed to hold wild boars which they also hunt there. The sale also includes the Buckhorn Lodge which was used for some events during the winter such as a sleigh ride stop over and meals for their day long cross country skiing event.
The property is listed for about $11,000,000 so bring the BIG checkbook.
Even after the property is sold Garland will still have about 1800 acres so they will remain the area's largest employer for awhile.
 
   / Log Homes #20  
One point not mentioned is cleaning. I shuddered when I saw the post about some bark still being on the logs. Man the dusting alone on -clean- logs is a major maintenance factor. My BIL built one so I saw the pros and cons from construction (professional), to living in, to selling not too many years later. Not for me thanks.

Harry, the lazy guy, K
 

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