I have a 2002 Mtd log splitter 25 ton . My proplem is that the control valve holds good for the return stroke but does not release to neutral when it reaches the end of its return stroke. Has anyone else had this proplem , is it hard to fix the detent valve.
log splitter detent valve
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kennyd
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What brand is the valve? Does it have any numbers on it?
J_J
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Take the valve a part and clean it. The detent release probably has some debris on it.
Here is a typical log splitter valve. You can adjust the detent kickout if you want, and relief pressure.
http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LS3000InstS.pdf
Here is a typical log splitter valve. You can adjust the detent kickout if you want, and relief pressure.
http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LS3000InstS.pdf
I did find the name energy on it . I did go to to thier web site and they do make a valve made mostly for log splitters. It took some doing but I was able to down load thier parts diagrapm . It looks likes the detent is a one piece deal that can't be serviced, but I am going to try. The only numbers on it were 232A but nothing came up under those numbers.
J_J
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Wayne County Hose
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These valves are typically cheap pos's and aren't made to be serviced. They are sooo incredibly inexpensive just get a new one and be done with it. After you take it apart, you will get a new one anyway.
J_J
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I am not sure which valves Wayne is talking about, but here is a Prince log splitter valve that should work for you if you decide you want another valve. You can adjust both relief, and detent release pressure.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009081707180506&item=9-1262&catname=hydraulic
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009081707180506&item=9-1262&catname=hydraulic
you may want to test the pressure on your pump too just in case the wood you are splitting is splitting below the detent pressure and your pump isnt building enough to kick to neutral follow? plumbing in a pressure gauge is cheap and can help rule out things for you good luck.
J_J
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sizzami,
The detent pressure does not come into play until you are in the return stroke.
The detent release pressure has a wide variance, why, I don't know. The pressure on the return stroke will be low pressure, around 650 psi, and at high volume, and a fast return time The only purpose of the detent is for semiautomatic mode, at the end of the stroke, just to kick the lever into neutral.
I think that new double set lever log splitter valve is a great idea, just set and forget, and have the next log ready to load. However the price on it is the kicker. about three times the standard log splitter valve.
The detent pressure does not come into play until you are in the return stroke.
The detent release pressure has a wide variance, why, I don't know. The pressure on the return stroke will be low pressure, around 650 psi, and at high volume, and a fast return time The only purpose of the detent is for semiautomatic mode, at the end of the stroke, just to kick the lever into neutral.
I think that new double set lever log splitter valve is a great idea, just set and forget, and have the next log ready to load. However the price on it is the kicker. about three times the standard log splitter valve.
low pressure from the pump is low pressure regardless of stroke I am only saying that checking the pressure is a good place to start and if debris got into the valve it had to gothrough the pump or it came from the pump no?
I put the autocycle valve on mine its great, but sometimes you have to adjust it in extreme temps. high or low.
I put the autocycle valve on mine its great, but sometimes you have to adjust it in extreme temps. high or low.
J_J
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Yes, you are right about the low pressure, and if one were to put a gage in a tee after the pump, they would be able to see the results of pressure in all the different functions of the log splitter, and be able to set relief valve and detent valve pressures. There should also be a tank strainer as well as the hyd return line filter, to catch that crud out of the tank.
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J_J
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On your log splitter, How much reservoir volume do you have compared to pump GPM?
Well I have to say thank you for all your info , I took it apart this afternoon and there isn't much to it and there is no ajustments on it like some valves have but it is greesed from the factory and the greese was all crudded up. I cleaned it up and you have to be careful because if you take it apart thier is 4 small ball bearings and 1 large one in it. It comes apart pretty easy but it took me awhile top figure out how to get all the balls back in and the collar back on but I did it. I did lose 1 of the small balls but it still works.
It does work a little better but still sticks at times I didn't have any greese handy so I will have to greese it later.
I see you guys mention a pressure gauge , where would I put it and what size do I need and what is normal operating pressure for this type of splitter. By the way it does have a oil filter and I did change it and the fluid. (Dextrol 3 ATF ) I forgot that it took so many quarts.
It does work a little better but still sticks at times I didn't have any greese handy so I will have to greese it later.
I see you guys mention a pressure gauge , where would I put it and what size do I need and what is normal operating pressure for this type of splitter. By the way it does have a oil filter and I did change it and the fluid. (Dextrol 3 ATF ) I forgot that it took so many quarts.
J_J
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The gage should go after the pump, before the valve. 3000 psi gage. If it is a two stage pump, the high speed or initial push is around 650 psi. When it shifts to low speed and high pressure, the pressure can go up to 2500 psi. So expect to see low pressure starting out and if you get into some really tough stuff, you can hear and see when it shifts modes.
engineer999
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J J has it about right. Low pressure is not an issue with one ended detents.
I'm an engineer and have designed various pumps and valves. Detents come in two basic types, in-line, and orthogonal(ie right angles). The inline versions are cheap non-adjustables frequently found on OEM systems. You can see the detent in the orthogonals, it sticks out the side.
The detention of the spool(the core to which the handle attaches) is done by a grove in the spool into which a small ball bearing is jammed when you push the lever all the way back. This stops the spool from returning to center.
Since the cylinder is simply retracting the oil pressure is super low. But when it reaches the end of the stroke the pressure forces oil past the ball and forces either the ball itself or the back inter-piston backwards against a spring. This gets the ball out of the way. This can be made to happen at pressures as low as 250 PSIG.
If the detent won't stay, then you need to tighten the adjustment nut against the spring and force the ball forward harder. If it won't release it may be too tight. If the detent requires more pressure than the release valve then the release valve opens . Adjust the nut the other way(CCW usually).
Sizzami, if the pressure can't get up to the detent pressure, then you have a major major problem. A gauge won't fix it, only confirm that you need a new pump (or release valve).
I'm an engineer and have designed various pumps and valves. Detents come in two basic types, in-line, and orthogonal(ie right angles). The inline versions are cheap non-adjustables frequently found on OEM systems. You can see the detent in the orthogonals, it sticks out the side.
The detention of the spool(the core to which the handle attaches) is done by a grove in the spool into which a small ball bearing is jammed when you push the lever all the way back. This stops the spool from returning to center.
Since the cylinder is simply retracting the oil pressure is super low. But when it reaches the end of the stroke the pressure forces oil past the ball and forces either the ball itself or the back inter-piston backwards against a spring. This gets the ball out of the way. This can be made to happen at pressures as low as 250 PSIG.
If the detent won't stay, then you need to tighten the adjustment nut against the spring and force the ball forward harder. If it won't release it may be too tight. If the detent requires more pressure than the release valve then the release valve opens . Adjust the nut the other way(CCW usually).
Sizzami, if the pressure can't get up to the detent pressure, then you have a major major problem. A gauge won't fix it, only confirm that you need a new pump (or release valve).
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