Log splitter help

[jdhacker]

New guy here, I traded for a Brave log splitter. Made in 1987 I think, It dosent look like it was used much. It had a couple of problems, It looked like it had been wrecked. It looked like something had went through where the governer plate is and tore all of that out. So I replaced the governer parts, the carb was stoped up. So I cleaned and put a new kit in it. The 5 hp briggs will now start on the first pull. So I start the splitter nothing, I take the pump off, the lovejoy was pushed back on the moter shaft and the set screw was loose. The bushing was missing, so I got the bushing put it back together. Started the ram move smooth forward and backward. I done that several times. Put a piece of wood on it, wont split, it does pull the motor down a small amount, and makes a small place in the wood. But it act's like its not kicking down in high pressure. I know nothing about hydraulics. And help is greatly appreciated.

 

[J_J]

The cyl can only develop pressure if the pump is doing it's job, and the cyl or valve is not leaking/bypassing.

If you install a hyd gage, you can use it to troubleshoot the hyd system.

As you operate the valve, you can see any pressure developed by the cyl.

Can you verify that the pump is turning at the same rpm as the engine?

Can you take the pump out hose and run it into a bucket or the tank and see if the GPM's are correct.

 

[jdhacker]

Update this thing looks like it never split wood. Any way what I did was adjust the pressure on the pump until it would almost kill the motor. Then put a piece of 16 in twisted hickory in it and it split no problems. I had to turn the adjustment two and a half full turns. I dont understand that. But seems all is well.

 

[Dead Horse]

Don't feel bad. I bought an American splitter from a guy who didn't use it much and I suspect didn't actually know which was the business end of a screw driver. The detent kick off never worked on it and one day I got curious (and pissed) and traced the hydraulic hoses and fluid flow...... turned out the hoses were not installed on the splitter correctly. 5 minutes of simple wrench work, set the detent pressure and Viola......... has been working perfectly for a hundred + cords of firewood.

 

[mrjim0214]

Hello all, new guy here......log splitter probs also wish/hope mine turn out like yours but i need some help before i DIVE in. Heres my dilemma.....
I have a 1986 DUERR 20 ton splitter (my dad purchased new) has not worked properly for a long time im told. I put a 5000 psi guage on and a new harbor freight 6.5 hp engine and it intermittly went to 2500/2800 psi when I bottomed the piston out, now it never goes above 550/600 psi (1st stage) I have pump and valve in hand on table, pump is a haldex/concentric 1012 (todays # is 1001689) valve is a Prince ls 3000-1, there are no #'s on cylinder at all. I planned on taking pump apart as I feel this is my prob. should I? or valve or both? Im willing to buy what I need but i dont wanna be a parts replacer with not knowing for sure what the prob. is. Im here for any help or a direction to head in, by the way I drained and strained/filtered the oil and cleaned tank spotless with gas/air (I believe oil is fairly new and I replaced filter prior to all this (10 micron)) OK fellas hit me up, I gotta lotta wood to split and a day off lol

 

[jdhacker]

Hello all, new guy here......log splitter probs also wish/hope mine turn out like yours but i need some help before i DIVE in. Heres my dilemma.....
I have a 1986 DUERR 20 ton splitter (my dad purchased new) has not worked properly for a long time im told. I put a 5000 psi guage on and a new harbor freight 6.5 hp engine and it intermittly went to 2500/2800 psi when I bottomed the piston out, now it never goes above 550/600 psi (1st stage) I have pump and valve in hand on table, pump is a haldex/concentric 1012 (todays # is 1001689) valve is a Prince ls 3000-1, there are no #'s on cylinder at all. I planned on taking pump apart as I feel this is my prob. should I? or valve or both? Im willing to buy what I need but i dont wanna be a parts replacer with not knowing for sure what the prob. is. Im here for any help or a direction to head in, by the way I drained and strained/filtered the oil and cleaned tank spotless with gas/air (I believe oil is fairly new and I replaced filter prior to all this (10 micron)) OK fellas hit me up, I gotta lotta wood to split and a day off lol

IF you run the ram half way out, is the fluid full. also is the vent working, Also look at the hoses, make sure none of them is collapsing.

 

[ultrarunner]

Hello all, new guy here......log splitter probs also wish/hope mine turn out like yours but i need some help before i DIVE in. Heres my dilemma.....
I have a 1986 DUERR 20 ton splitter (my dad purchased new) has not worked properly for a long time im told. I put a 5000 psi guage on and a new harbor freight 6.5 hp engine and it intermittly went to 2500/2800 psi when I bottomed the piston out, now it never goes above 550/600 psi (1st stage) I have pump and valve in hand on table, pump is a haldex/concentric 1012 (todays # is 1001689) valve is a Prince ls 3000-1, there are no #'s on cylinder at all. I planned on taking pump apart as I feel this is my prob. should I? or valve or both? Im willing to buy what I need but i dont wanna be a parts replacer with not knowing for sure what the prob. is. Im here for any help or a direction to head in, by the way I drained and strained/filtered the oil and cleaned tank spotless with gas/air (I believe oil is fairly new and I replaced filter prior to all this (10 micron)) OK fellas hit me up, I gotta lotta wood to split and a day off lol

I think we have the same splitter made in Washington?

Mine has been problem free... and has not yet been stumped by anything I have thrown at it.

I have to confess to never changing the hydraulic oil or filter...

I was not able to find the company when I did a search so it might be out of business or changed names?

I'm sure it will do the job for you.

 

[mrjim0214]

I think we have the same splitter made in Washington?

Mine has been problem free... and has not yet been stumped by anything I have thrown at it.

I have to confess to never changing the hydraulic oil or filter...

I was not able to find the company when I did a search so it might be out of business or changed names?

I'm sure it will do the job for you.

Mine is orange, I've seen blue ones also, my engine is on the right, I've seen them mounted on the left also (from vertical operators position) and he's looooong out of business. Had prob with 1st one and he sent my dad a new one and never picked up the old one (sold that 1 after a few yrs, lol) He said he had a "lot" of bad pumps and thats why he shipped another complete splitter, in anycase the pump was replaced on the newer one also quite a few yrs. ago and I was told it never worked just rite (no body ever took the initiative to put a gauge on it either). So I'm trying to get it fixed correctly, I mean all ya got is an engine (mine is new, the old briggs was tired, fill the oil and check the gas lol, but she ran good) a pump, valve and cylinder. Hopefully I'll get some info shortly but in the mean time I think I'll start splitting the pump and look at it. HELP me out guys!!!!!

 

[J_J]

The problem could be any number of things.

Cylinder, valve, relief valve,etc.

Before you tear that pump down, you need to provide some resistance to the pump flow, and this can be done by removing the extend hose and install a needle valve on the hose.

Have someone aim the needle valve output into a bucket or tank, and start the engine. Then slowly turn the needle valve in clockwise and look at the pressure gage. If the pump is good, the pressure will build as you turn the needle valve in. If you close the needle valve to far, the valve relief will go off. and lug the engine.

Next, check the cyl for bypassing by starting engine and extending the cyl. Then remove the retract hose from the cyl, and place in a bucket. Now, try to extend the cyl some more. If the cyl is bypassing, fluid will flow from the rod end port.

To check the valve, use the needle valve in one of the work ports. Place a hose from the needle valve in a bucket and activate lever, and turn the needle valve clock wise to close off the flow and watch the gage for pressure build up. If the valve can maintain pressure, you can figure the valve is good.

Check and or replace your return filter.

 

[mrjim0214]

:

The problem could be any number of things.

Cylinder, valve, relief valve,etc.

Before you tear that pump down, you need to provide some resistance to the pump flow, and this can be done by removing the extend hose and install a needle valve on the hose.

Have someone aim the needle valve output into a bucket or tank, and start the engine. Then slowly turn the needle valve in clockwise and look at the pressure gage. If the pump is good, the pressure will build as you turn the needle valve in. If you close the needle valve to far, the valve relief will go off. and lug the engine.

Next, check the cyl for bypassing by starting engine and extending the cyl. Then remove the retract hose from the cyl, and place in a bucket. Now, try to extend the cyl some more. If the cyl is bypassing, fluid will flow from the rod end port.

To check the valve, use the needle valve in one of the work ports. Place a hose from the needle valve in a bucket and activate lever, and turn the needle valve clock wise to close off the flow and watch the gage for pressure build up. If the valve can maintain pressure, you can figure the valve is good.

Check and or replace your return filter.

Hi JJ----- At this point I have everything apart (off the machine, not opened up yet), but prior to this I had a gauge on the high pressure hose between the pump and the valve, when I push the ram against the wood or fully extend it the gauge reads 500/600 psi which is the limits of stage 1, it does not seem to want to go to stage 2 anymore. As far as you saying to put resistance against pump flow, aren't I doing basically the same thing? As far as the cylinder check, well, I got the info to do as you said after I had it all apart unfornunatly, also my valve is "hard mounted" to the cylinder with a nipple at the retract port rather than a hose, of course I can get a hose made up to bypass the nipple to preform this test, or can I check in reverse and retract fully and disconnect the extend hose?
I did go to a hydraulic shop and he watched the gauge and was fairly sure it was a pump issue, in my situation, being its all apart,would it make sense to "look" at the pump internally (I've been told the O-rings go bad) prior to putting it back together? (not that its that much to do) Also would you know where to get an exploded view view of this pump? I tried haldex directly and northern directly but got nowhere. (the time it took to do this is why its not in peices yet, lol) also can I used a ball valve for testing?

Thanks Jim

On second thought I'm putting it back together because it was really only in pieces to give the tank a good douche, spent to much time behind this screen and my mind went to muush :confused2: