Log splitter on a budget project!

[Josh61513]

Of course, reduce the engine speed!

As it turns out I should have the full 7.66 GPM available at the rear remotes, my dealer Michigan Iron says the tractor has just one pump but uses a priority valve for the power steering.

I would imagine that the benefit from larger hose would be reduced friction, particularly over a long run. Very similar to using a heavy guage extension cord to minimize voltage drop, or larger diameter water lines with a long run.

At the ~5' lengths I will be using I'm thinking the effect would be minimal.

I need to pickup the splitter before the next batch of questions arise! Any ideas on how to get any old/nast fluid out of the cylinder? Can I just extend and retract the ram and expect fluid to come out? Maybe even try to draw some clean fluid in through a port while extending it?

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Frictional losses are greater in a smaller hose resulting in a reduction of flow.

 

[J_J]

If you use th regen valve, you are coming out of the valve with 3/4 fitting, and it really doesn't matter whether the hose is 3/8, 1/2. or 3/4, because the distance is small, and cylinder ports are probably 3/8 in. Josh will tell us soon.

 

[Josh61513]

Well I picked up the splitter yesterday. 3 1/4" cylinder, 18" stroke.

I stopped at TSC on the way home to match up port sizes, it has 1/2" in and out. I bought swivel connectors for the cylinder side, 1/2 hose (one 8' one 10'), I already had pioneer 1/2" connectors, and then a set of dust caps. About $70 for those pieces, so I'm ~$120 deep into the project.

Brought it home, flushed some clean fluid into both sides of the cylinder by moving the ram back and forth, and then connected up the new lines. Started the tractor, engaged the valve and waited a few seconds for the fluid to fill. The ram moved! Great I thought, it works!

I retracted the ram completely and fetched a piece of Ash that was already cut & split to size just to make sure it works. The ram moved up to the wood and just stopped moving...Has no power. It can split small pieces of kindling wood but that's it. I had the tractor's hydraulic pressure checked with the 50 hour service that was done a week ago and it checked right at 2,250 psi. With the 3.25" cylinder I figure I should have over 9 tons of force...

Does this mean the internal seals are bad or could I have air in the system somewhere? I topped off the tractor's hydraulic reservoir, it was 1/2-1 gallon low from filling the cylinder and lines but no change. I can hear it go into relief when I retract the cylinder completely but when it stops extending at the wood the sound of the tractor pump changes very little...

I attached some crappy camera phone pictures of the rig.

Your thoughts?

 

[kennyd]

Well I picked up the splitter yesterday. 3 1/4" cylinder, 18" stroke.

I stopped at TSC on the way home to match up port sizes, it has 1/2" in and out. I bought swivel connectors for the cylinder side, 1/2 hose (one 8' one 10'), I already had pioneer 1/2" connectors, and then a set of dust caps. About $70 for those pieces, so I'm ~$120 deep into the project.

Brought it home, flushed some clean fluid into both sides of the cylinder by moving the ram back and forth, and then connected up the new lines. Started the tractor, engaged the valve and waited a few seconds for the fluid to fill. The ram moved! Great I thought, it works!

I retracted the ram completely and fetched a piece of Ash that was already cut & split to size just to make sure it works. The ram moved up to the wood and just stopped moving...Has no power. It can split small pieces of kindling wood but that's it. I had the tractor's hydraulic pressure checked with the 50 hour service that was done a week ago and it checked right at 2,250 psi. With the 3.25" cylinder I figure I should have over 9 tons of force...

Does this mean the internal seals are bad or could I have air in the system somewhere? I topped off the tractor's hydraulic reservoir, it was 1/2-1 gallon low from filling the cylinder and lines but no change. I can hear it go into relief when I retract the cylinder completely but when it stops extending at the wood the sound of the tractor pump changes very little...

I attached some crappy camera phone pictures of the rig.

Your thoughts?

Bummer.
Can you detail exactly how you have it plumbed to the tractor?
What valve did you use?

 

[MichiganIron]

The cylinder may be:

Peninsular Cylinder Company
27650 Groesbeck Hwy.
Roseville, MI 48066

Peninsular Cylinder Co. - hydraulic cylinder, air cylinder, pneumatic cylinder, cylinder repair, cylinder accessories, ford standard cylinders, chysler standard cylinders, pneumatic slides and die lifters, pneumatic clamps, air powered clamps, decell

Click on Ford and Daimler Chrysler Cyclinders

Check out the MMHC 500 Series cylinders and specs. See if they match up to what you have.

 

[J_J]

Did you say you purchased the regen valve? If so, when you split using that valve, do not hold it all the way fwd, back off to the soft stop, and that gives the most power. The purpose of the regen valve is to extend the cylinder quickly, but power is diminished.

You asked about flow in the regen valve. It is almost doubled.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Does this mean the internal seals are bad or could I have air in the system somewhere? I topped off the tractor's hydraulic reservoir, it was 1/2-1 gallon low from filling the cylinder and lines but no change. I can hear it go into relief when I retract the cylinder completely but when it stops extending at the wood the sound of the tractor pump changes very little...
...snip snip...

So if it's bypassing internally it only happens in the extend direction. Could you be going to a "float" detent on your remote valve? Try reversing the hoses.

McMaster Carr has seals listed by dimension if you can't find the exact kit.

McMaster-Carr

 

[Josh61513]

Thanks for everyones input.

The splitter is plumbed to my rear remote circuit, which is controlled by a dual acting valve with detents in both directions. I wanted to verify the cylinder was good before buying a regen valve (and it looks like it isn't!).

It is made by the Peninsular brand Mich Iron mentioned below. It's a MMHC-505, 3.25" cylinder diameter. I've been working with Bob @ Michigan Iron on how I should proceed, he has been very helpful as always! He got pricing for a rebuild kit and it's obnoxiously priced at more than $140!

I may go the McMaster Carr/custom route, or just replace the cylinder with a 3.5". So much for the budget! Agggh.

 

[kennyd]

You can also look at Hercules Sealing Products if you know what you need...they won't have a "kit" though...