log splitter only extending
- Thread starter troweller
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RonMar
Elite Member
So the ram extended the first time and won't go back in? If this is the case, and you say it is on the circuit you use for a backhoe, I think a restriction on the splitter outflow or either the supply or return QC's would also show as an overpressure/restriction in the system(engine bogging down, safeties opening elsewhere on the tractor) as the mainlines for Backhoe are most likley designd for an open center circuit and must always flow.
Is the assembly that holds the wedge to the main frame rail free and properly greased? If this was binding on the return stroke, it could be causing the hydraulic safety in the control valve to bypass and not move the ram. Do you hear a wooshing sound in the valve when you try and retract the ram? You could disconnect the pin that holds the rod to the wedge and see if the cylinder rod retracts without the load of the wedge attached. If this works, try sliding the wedge by hand. You should be able to do so easilly in both directions.
If there is no mechanical binding, I would look at the splitter valve, particularly the lines between the working ports and the cylinder. One quick check would be to disconnect the two lines at the cylinder and route them to a bucket. Then see if you get fluid out of both of them into the bucket as you work the splitter valve lever in both directions.
You say it is new, have you called the manufacturer/dealer to see what they say?
Is the assembly that holds the wedge to the main frame rail free and properly greased? If this was binding on the return stroke, it could be causing the hydraulic safety in the control valve to bypass and not move the ram. Do you hear a wooshing sound in the valve when you try and retract the ram? You could disconnect the pin that holds the rod to the wedge and see if the cylinder rod retracts without the load of the wedge attached. If this works, try sliding the wedge by hand. You should be able to do so easilly in both directions.
If there is no mechanical binding, I would look at the splitter valve, particularly the lines between the working ports and the cylinder. One quick check would be to disconnect the two lines at the cylinder and route them to a bucket. Then see if you get fluid out of both of them into the bucket as you work the splitter valve lever in both directions.
You say it is new, have you called the manufacturer/dealer to see what they say?
I had a similar symptom with a stand alone splitter.
I could stop the motor and push the rod in by hand, oddly enough if I started the engine and set the lever to retract the rod would also come out.
I took the cylinder apart and found that the piston had parted company with the rod. This may or may not be your problem, but if it is...
If it is NOT a tie rod cylinder there should be a snap ring just inside the working end. Remove that and press the end plate into the cylinder a couple of inches. This sounds silly, but clean out the snap ring groove and then putty it up with that plastic metal epoxy dough stuff that you find on the counter at auto parts stores. This is so you can withdraw the piston and not have it's seal catch in the snap ring groove. Then pull the rod out - no piston on the end ?
OK, now get inventive - a slide hammer will do it, basically you need to get that end plate and piston out WITHOUT destroying their seals. In my case it was a 2 part seal for a 5 inch diameter cylinder and I think I paid nearly $30 and had to drive around for 1/2 day to get it. Mine had simply unscrewed the big nut, so I cleaned everything up and lock-tited it back together, then reassembled.
Once the piston AND end plate were in past the snap ring groove I chipped out the putty/plastic stuff and replaced the snap ring.
To get the air out I rotated the cylinder and tipped it to get one port to be at the highest point, cycled it 3 times, then did the same for the other port.
DONE.
If it is a tie rod cylinder you can forget about puttying up the snap ring groove.
\R
I could stop the motor and push the rod in by hand, oddly enough if I started the engine and set the lever to retract the rod would also come out.
I took the cylinder apart and found that the piston had parted company with the rod. This may or may not be your problem, but if it is...
If it is NOT a tie rod cylinder there should be a snap ring just inside the working end. Remove that and press the end plate into the cylinder a couple of inches. This sounds silly, but clean out the snap ring groove and then putty it up with that plastic metal epoxy dough stuff that you find on the counter at auto parts stores. This is so you can withdraw the piston and not have it's seal catch in the snap ring groove. Then pull the rod out - no piston on the end ?
OK, now get inventive - a slide hammer will do it, basically you need to get that end plate and piston out WITHOUT destroying their seals. In my case it was a 2 part seal for a 5 inch diameter cylinder and I think I paid nearly $30 and had to drive around for 1/2 day to get it. Mine had simply unscrewed the big nut, so I cleaned everything up and lock-tited it back together, then reassembled.
Once the piston AND end plate were in past the snap ring groove I chipped out the putty/plastic stuff and replaced the snap ring.
To get the air out I rotated the cylinder and tipped it to get one port to be at the highest point, cycled it 3 times, then did the same for the other port.
DONE.
If it is a tie rod cylinder you can forget about puttying up the snap ring groove.
\R
