Log splitter plans...

[Junkman]

I have had the cylinder, valve, and pump for about 15 years now, and have never gotten around to making a log splitter. Any suggestions for plans to make one. I would prefer a vertical splitter to a horizontal splitter. Easier to roll the logs under the ram, than lift them to the ram. I am open to all suggestions at this point. The splitter is next on the list of things to build after I get the old wood stove welded and ready for burning again. Haven't used it in about 10 years since oil was reasonable and I wasn't home to feed the stove on a regular basis. One more thing to do in retirement.

 

[gav64]

junkman,

I have good pamphlet on making a splitter, theory,components,design ect... if you want to pm me with your address i will photocopy and mail it to you. I have built one and have been using it for 7 years. I live in Bolton probably not to far from you. good luck, glenn.

 

[Varmintmist]

I cant stand vertical splitters. It really isnt eaiser when you have to bend and remain so constantly. If you are busting 6 inch rounds maybe it would be OK. With the horizontal I only have to pick up the log once.

You might want to use one before you make one.

 

[bczoom]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I cant stand vertical splitters. It really isnt eaiser when you have to bend and remain so constantly. )</font>

I'll second that.

The only time I go vertical is when the log it too heavy to lift onto the splitter. I made a log catcher to the far side of the ram so when I do split a large log (in horizontal mode), the far 1/2 gets caught so I don't have to bend down to get it.

Brian

 

[ronjhall]

Auto return is a good option to build into a splitter.
I like the idea of a convertible splitter like the ones I have seen at TSC. Anytime I have to bend over my back starts to ache. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Here is a thread on auto return. Click Here
I have some other photos of this splitter if it would help.

 

[mesanders]

Here is a good place for complete kits.........MetKit Corporation or if you have a plan already you might check with these metal suppliers...... Metal Supermarkets

 

[escavader]

JUNKMAN,
Ditto on the comments ,about vertical splitters...way too much bending over,and moving wood out of your way.If wood is too big to handle,add a log lift.Heres a few thoughts i have on the perfect splitter,i have built this over the years,modifying along the way,what i believe is perfect for my needs[and every one else,whos trying to borrow it.]
1 with the proper two stage pump,[which gives it power and speed]5 hp is all you need. i have an old briggs.
2 the wedge should have some angle welded on to make the wood pop right open,and you wont have to complete the stroke[on non stringy stuff]
3auto return detent valve,if you have to hold the stick back your wasting time and you could have been gathering another piece. FOR SAFETY NEVER LET SOMEONE OPERATE YOUR STICK
4make it high enough so you are standing straight up when running to save the back
5 have it on a trailer hitch,to pull with your lawn tractor,and THE IMPORTANT PART...THE WOOD SHOULD COME OFF THE BACK.You will never have to throw wood out of your way...when it builds up...drive ahead a foot or so.No need to have a helper,or a conveyor. note* i used an old boat trailer axle and wheels which i shortened up .*
6have some wings on it tokeep the wood from falling for multiple splits.If you dont want to split again the next log will push it off.

I bought alot of my stuff at NH.They sell good stuff.I cut my trees down,cut up right there to avoid dragging in the dirt,haul my splitter to the spot with my atv.All the mess is in the woods,not home .NOW THE SHOCKER...With this splitter,in maple or oak etc,6 to 12 inch sticks,IM able to split a cord an hour by my self,i cant lay it on the splitter fast enough.Its just like our tractors,its the design and hydraulics that do the brunt of the work,not the engins.SEND IN A PIC THIS WEEKEND IF YOU WANT.
ALAN

 

[Bigbear]

The attachment shows what works the best for me in a splitter. You can stand up close, waist height, log lift that also gets used for logs to be split or the other half of big ones, 5hp honda engine, very easy on fuel and cost new about 200 bucks, 2 stage pump, 4x24 splitting ram, 3x12 log lift ram, and quite easy to tow.
I don't like the vertical models because you are always bending over, or on your knees to split the wood. If the pcs are that big, then the log lift will be used.
Junkman, you will have alot of fun building and using a homemade splitter, kinda makes you chuckle every time your able to split through those tough knots or twisted stringy pcs with something you made yourself. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[tommu56]

I built one years ago about waste high but never though of building it so wood go's out back thats a good idea. I use to keep a pile of wood on the motor side so splits would rest on it so i didnt have to pick up again. Then stack both peices back and split both at same time on 2nd cross cut I also started splitting just small enough to get through stove door with a 2 or 3 split (bitmap attached)
alot of my frends started splitting this way for all nighters then stack 3 or 4 in stove then less 3am feedngs

 

[Mike_C]

My splitter swings down from horizontal to vertical, so I can use it either way. I suppose if you want the best idea it would be to have both. But I disagree with the others about this. I can use mine either way, but it is in vertical mode 99% of the time. I heat my house with wood (alone), so I split about 10 cords of wood each fall (it's almost time again). Most of the trees are 18 to 24" in diameter, and I just don't have the strength to lift up all those logs. So, I make a pile around the splitter, then stay on my knees for long bursts, I am not getting up and down. While on my knees I roll over a log, split it about 6 times, and throw each piece directly into the FEL of the Kubota which is parked right behind me. When the FEL is full, it's time to drive it over to the house and stack it.

 

[Mike_C]

The wood pile

 

[kenneyz]

I've been thinking of making one also. I have a bx2200, which has a four way valve on it. My question ..is my tractor's hydraulic system strong enough to power splitter sized cylinder. It pumps 5.5gpm but I cant find a spec on operating pressure.I looked in tsc, they have a cylinder I think it had a 3.5" body, 1.5" ram and 16"throw for about 130 bucks..I could order a larger one for not much more. If that will work, a few hoses and some scrap steel and I'm in real cheap. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Mike_C]

I'm not qualified to answer that one about whether the pump on the bx2200 is big enough. Maybe someone else knows... What I can tell you is that my splitter has 26 tons of force, and it will split almost anything I can feed it. I did have one piece of hardwood about 36" in diameter that it could not split. It just killed the engine trying (6 HP Briggs). I ended up throwing it on the burn pile since I could not split it.

 

[tawilson]

If I'm wrong someone please correct me, but the tractor won't be a 2 stage pump that a typical woodsplitter uses. I guess that will just affect the cycle time. I see a lot of 3 point splitters out there that run off the rear remotes, so must be they work ok. My uninformed opinion/answer to your question, you'll be ok. You are planning on getting a logsplitter valve, aren't you? I'd also browse around Northern Tool and Surplus Center for ideas and products too.

 

[RonMar]

That 3.5" X 16" cylinder you described has an internal volume of around .67 gallons. If you could deliver all your 5.5GPM to it, you would fill it in a little over 7 seconds. This would be the no-load ram extend time. Restrictions and drags in the system will lower this no-load time a bit. And any load(splitting a log) will slow it a bit more. It would retract a little quicker due to the smaller volume on the rod side of the cylinder. A ram with a 3.5" piston has 9.62 sq/in of surface area. 2000 PSI of hydraulic pressure will equal 19242 pounds of force. Your typical logsplitter uses a 4" X 24" cylinder. The same 2000 PSI would get you 25,132 pounds of force but your 5.5 GPM pump would take nearly 15 seconds to fill it.

Most logsplitters use a dual stage pump which is basically 2 pumps. When no load is detected, the pumps operate in parallel for high volume and low pressure to get that big ram moving fast. When the ram comes under load, the pumps switch into series operation for high pressure with less volume to apply maximum force to the ram.

I have thought about this myself. I use a smaller woodstove that won't burn anything over 18" long. With the width of the wedge, I really only need a ram with 12-14" of stroke. This project is still on hold though as I am young enough to still split wood way faster with an axe or maul than I can with a splitter(I can split them faster than my wife and daughter can stand them up). The key is to cut a slot through the bark along the length of the log before you cut it up. Someday I won't be able to do this as fast and the logsplitter project will be on again

 

[Varmintmist]

Or your wife and daughter stop helping /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I agree that if I have one clearing and one feeding me I can split at least as fast with a maul as a splitter, on straight grained stuff. Toss in a knoted red oak or a twisted choke cherry and the speed rops right off. I still split with a maul, but I dont need to split that much. The door on the firebox is 18 in /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I do split my dads, he has a horz/vert splitter. When I use it it stays horz