Log splitter question ?

[wvpolekat]

Adding it to your loader is no big deal. Right now here is how it goes:

Pump--->Loader Valve--->3ph--->Tank

You have a couple of choices in how to plumb it:

You can run a line from your PB port on the loader valve to the back. Then another line to the 3ph. You would have to loop the two lines when nothing is connected to them.

Pump--->Loader Valve--->Quick Connect #1
Quick Connect #2-->3ph

Or, you could run a line off the PB port on the loader to a valve with PB:

Pump--->Loader Valve--->Remote Valve--->3ph--->tank

Then you would have 2 lines coming off your remote valve that would have the quick connects on them.

Option #1 is cheaper, only requiring some hoses and quick connects. But, it is of somewhat limited use. Whatever you connect would need to have it's own valve with power beyond. Not sure if a normal log splitter valve has that.

Option #2 would give you an actual set of rear remotes, but I am not sure about running something with it's own valve off it.

Personally, I would not run a splitter off the tractor. Just because it ties up the best piece of equipment I have for moving logs/rounds/wood.

 

[bironacad]

Isn't that the truth. I looked at a splitter another guy had made before I made mine, it was really fast, I felt the need to count my fingers after it made the first stroke. Mine runs off the tractor and moves nice and slow but never stops, no matter how full of knots the wood is. I stack the split wood on the carryall, when it is full I get to take a nice drive up behind the shop and add the freshly split wood to the stack.
The tractor I have now has rear remotes to plug the splitter into but on my previous tractor I plugged the splitter into the bucket curl disconnects and bungeed the lever.

Beaudy, I like the economy of motion:thumbsup:

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Not to Hijack this thread but I wanted to ask almost the same question.

I blew the engine on my log splitter and was thinking if I could convert it to a 3pt hitch type?

I've been splitting 6 to 12 cords a year for ten years and it finally went.

Rob

Probably do able, but depends on the piston size and stroke...and what tractor GPM you have to run it...

The low gpm of the B7510 less than 7 gpm requires a small diameter piston nad it splits in both direction to make up for the slower speed. so it evens out when compared to a gas splitter...

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Adding it to your loader is no big deal. Right now here is how it goes:

Pump--->Loader Valve--->3ph--->Tank

You have a couple of choices in how to plumb it:

You can run a line from your PB port on the loader valve to the back. Then another line to the 3ph. You would have to loop the two lines when nothing is connected to them.

Pump--->Loader Valve--->Quick Connect #1
Quick Connect #2-->3ph

Or, you could run a line off the PB port on the loader to a valve with PB:

Pump--->Loader Valve--->Remote Valve--->3ph--->tank

Then you would have 2 lines coming off your remote valve that would have the quick connects on them.

Option #1 is cheaper, only requiring some hoses and quick connects. But, it is of somewhat limited use. Whatever you connect would need to have it's own valve with power beyond. Not sure if a normal log splitter valve has that.

Option #2 would give you an actual set of rear remotes, but I am not sure about running something with it's own valve off it.

Personally, I would not run a splitter off the tractor. Just because it ties up the best piece of equipment I have for moving logs/rounds/wood.

Works great.. Just like a backhoe loop..

 

[RobbieBones]

Firefighter,

I have a 2006 B21 with the Bt751 backhoe and TL421 FEL.

 

[Usta]

Just to add my 2cents worth. I find the biggest advantage of the stand-alone splitter is that it allows me to place split pieces directly in the loader bucket. I have a Huskee splitter from TSC. It has a very comfortable waist high working position which is easy on the back. I just position the loader behind the splitter and move the wood right to the bucket. When the bucket is full, I drive the tractor to the wood rack for stacking. Being able to vary the bucket height also makes it easy on the back for stacking. I split and stack about 10 cords/year.
I paid $999.00 several years ago for the 22 ton splitter. I think the price remains the same.

Same here. The loader sure comes in handy while splitting. Everyone has an opinion but I can not see a benefit of a 3PH other than original equipment cost and maybe saving a couple gallons of gasoline for the stand alone.

 

[grsthegreat]

im not worried about adding hours to my tractor. any tractor worth a darn is MEANT to run at pto speed indefinitely. I dont run anywheres near that speed while splitting wood.

 

[tonhon]

I just ordered the 3ph wood splitter from northern tool. My JD 4300 doesn't have the power beyond so I am wanting to hook it to fel till I can get the pb installed. Did I read that I should use the curl connections on the fel valves for this then tie the joy stick? If anyone has done this I would greatly appreciate a pic if possible, thanks in advance. Tony

 

[oldtimer 66]

My three cents worth almost a 20 sec cycle time extend and retract 4" cylinder with 2" rod reference extend and retract style splitter assumes 7 gpm but that is total flow not accounting for steering not sure of system pressure at 2500 psi tonnage extend 15.7 return tonnage 11.2 suggest you get a splitter with p to pump and leave you tractor hydraulics alone like I always say it only costs a couple more dollars to go first class later