Log splitter question
- Thread starter cwarrix
- Start date
- Views: 5936
One thing I forgot to mention about this thing. While I was splitting wood, I notice on some of the harder stuff, it would act like it was slowing down the ram, but the engine didn't lag, then when enough pressure built up it would break through the wood and the ram would jump out a few inches all at once. Is this normal? Or does it sound like air in the line was compressing and causing this to happen? I was thinking the ram movement should be smooth at all times without the "bounce" effect?
Thanks!
Chuck
Thanks!
Chuck
rbargeron
Elite Member
Chuck - from your description it does sound like there is some air in the system. You are right that the motion should be smooth and steady - no jumps.
My bet is the reservoir is big enough but it would work better if it was mounted higher than the pump. With it welded in as it is, it might be easier to mount a new one up higher.
To get a working splitter for $250 is a great deal, even if it isn't perfect. Congrats and good luck !
My bet is the reservoir is big enough but it would work better if it was mounted higher than the pump. With it welded in as it is, it might be easier to mount a new one up higher.
To get a working splitter for $250 is a great deal, even if it isn't perfect. Congrats and good luck !
Thanks rbargeron, can you explain why the reservoir should be higher than the pump? I'm kind of new to the whole hydraulic thing and am trying to learn on the fly here. I thought the pump would just suck the fluid out of the tank, even if it is lower. Does it suck up some air when the reservoir is too low?
I'm still looking for a good deal on a tank, not in a big hurry. I'm still debating if I want to buy a reservoir made for hydraulic use, or use something else and weld the fittings on.
As for mounting, I was thinking of dropping the engine and pump assembly down a few inches, maybe 6 to 10 inches. Then I could remove the silly seat and mount a pedestal for the hydraulic reservoir. That might get it high enough, at least higher than it is now. I'd also like to make it bigger since that would aid in keeping the fluid cool, right?
I'm still looking for a good deal on a tank, not in a big hurry. I'm still debating if I want to buy a reservoir made for hydraulic use, or use something else and weld the fittings on.
As for mounting, I was thinking of dropping the engine and pump assembly down a few inches, maybe 6 to 10 inches. Then I could remove the silly seat and mount a pedestal for the hydraulic reservoir. That might get it high enough, at least higher than it is now. I'd also like to make it bigger since that would aid in keeping the fluid cool, right?
Ok guys, I finally just decided to buy a new tank from Northern tool. I went with a 10 gal tank which from what I understand, I might not need to fill completely up. I'll be trying to get this in the barn tonight to look at the pump a little closer to see what the gpm is. I also have another pump that came with it (a spare), I'll include specs from it as well.
One more quick question... Is there any good reason that I should add a pressure gauge to this system? Is it worth $20 to have it just in case. I have never noticed one on any other log splitter I've seen at TSC, etc. Just curious if anyone has thoughts on this.
Thanks!
One more quick question... Is there any good reason that I should add a pressure gauge to this system? Is it worth $20 to have it just in case. I have never noticed one on any other log splitter I've seen at TSC, etc. Just curious if anyone has thoughts on this.
Thanks!
Hi Joe and all! I finally got the log splitter in the barn where I can get at it to get some numbers. The cylinder appears to be a little over 24" long, and I am guessing 3.5" diameter, with a 1.5" shaft. I'll attach a couple of shots of it. Not sure if it is 3.5" or 4" diameter, wasn't sure which part to measure.
Attachments
The pump that is currently on the splitter says "Sperry Rand VICKERS" on it. There are several numbers on it. Under the name on the top it has the numbers "2884 *65" where the "*" looked like a blob, or an O filled in. Not sure if was a number before, or if that was waht it was supposed to be. On the side there are some more numbers, "F3Y 1 B'W 1C 17", or the 17 might be a 12. Under those numbers is a S214. I tried to take pictures of the numbers bit they just didn't turn out. They are very hard to read, looks like an older pump, but I'm not sure. Attached is a picture of the pump.
Attachments
When I bought the splitter, the guy gave me another pump, as a spare. I'm not sure about the condition, or if it would be better than the on I currently have, but here is a picture of it. It looks like there is some kind of fitting missing from the one side.
This one says "KAYABA" on it and also has the following numbers "KRP4-33ABND", "7UAH", "7911", and "7915H". I'll try to do some searches to see if I can figure out the GPM for either of these pumps.
This one says "KAYABA" on it and also has the following numbers "KRP4-33ABND", "7UAH", "7911", and "7915H". I'll try to do some searches to see if I can figure out the GPM for either of these pumps.
Attachments
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,630
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
I don't think a tank needs to be higher than the pump. Mine isn't and it works fine.
Rather than air in the system, it sounds like Chuck has a pump that is a two-stage, as it slows down when in some tough wood and goes faster once it busts through. A lot of pent up energy will cause the extra flurry that was mentioned.
Rather than air in the system, it sounds like Chuck has a pump that is a two-stage, as it slows down when in some tough wood and goes faster once it busts through. A lot of pent up energy will cause the extra flurry that was mentioned.
GaryBDavis
Gold Member
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Most home-made splitters are way overdesigned - which is to say they aren't really designed at all. They are an accumulation of available parts where the usual selection rule is "bigger is better".
But bigger is not always better. Bigger may be just heavier, hotter, and more trouble to move. A 4" cylinder runing at 2000 psi makes 25,000 pounds of force. If that isn't enough, your wedge is too blunt. A 5" cylinder is 50% more in every way - more output force, but needs more gpm to keep the speed up.
The main source of heat in a splitter is the viscous friction of shoving all that oil through all those fittings - even when there is no splitting going on. The answer is lower flow and using components better matched to the job. My 2 cents. )</font>
Although I do have a tendency to “over engineer” a few things, the size of the cylinder, pump, engine and H-beam I chose was taken directly from store bought splitter. Still, I ran hydraulic calculations (speed, force, HP required, oil capacity, etc) for just about every combination of ram/pump I could come up with before deciding what I wanted to use.
One thing to keep in mind with a larger cylinder is that it produces a higher splitting force when the pump is still running in it’s “high volume/low pressure” mode. As a result, I’m moving pretty fast for all but the really big/hard logs. This makes splitting quite a bit faster – especially if you are working with medium size/hardness wood that constantly causes smaller diameter cylinders to push the pump into high pressure/low volume mode. Run the numbers and you’ll see that a 5” diameter cylinder is faster in the high flow mode than a 4” diameter cylinder is at low flow. If you can stay under the high/low break over point of the pump for the majority of your splitting, a larger cylinder is actually more productive.
Even with a 2500PSI relief valve setting, 5” diameter cylinder and a splitting wedge in good shape, I’ve run across 20” hardwood logs that I had trouble splitting. You could see the H-beam flex!
But bigger is not always better. Bigger may be just heavier, hotter, and more trouble to move. A 4" cylinder runing at 2000 psi makes 25,000 pounds of force. If that isn't enough, your wedge is too blunt. A 5" cylinder is 50% more in every way - more output force, but needs more gpm to keep the speed up.
The main source of heat in a splitter is the viscous friction of shoving all that oil through all those fittings - even when there is no splitting going on. The answer is lower flow and using components better matched to the job. My 2 cents. )</font>
Although I do have a tendency to “over engineer” a few things, the size of the cylinder, pump, engine and H-beam I chose was taken directly from store bought splitter. Still, I ran hydraulic calculations (speed, force, HP required, oil capacity, etc) for just about every combination of ram/pump I could come up with before deciding what I wanted to use.
One thing to keep in mind with a larger cylinder is that it produces a higher splitting force when the pump is still running in it’s “high volume/low pressure” mode. As a result, I’m moving pretty fast for all but the really big/hard logs. This makes splitting quite a bit faster – especially if you are working with medium size/hardness wood that constantly causes smaller diameter cylinders to push the pump into high pressure/low volume mode. Run the numbers and you’ll see that a 5” diameter cylinder is faster in the high flow mode than a 4” diameter cylinder is at low flow. If you can stay under the high/low break over point of the pump for the majority of your splitting, a larger cylinder is actually more productive.
Even with a 2500PSI relief valve setting, 5” diameter cylinder and a splitting wedge in good shape, I’ve run across 20” hardwood logs that I had trouble splitting. You could see the H-beam flex!
Here are some similar links:
