Log Splitter Wedge ripped off.

[Scotty Dive]

My home built log splitter wedge ripped off tonight. The wedge was already welded onto the I Beam when I got it and it was a welded up mess of hand wedges and steel in a 4 way wedge - Who am I to criticize - it split at least 25 cords of wood for me. Well the top vertical section ripped off and I think the horizontal section isn't really all that horizontal and puts added stress on the system and I am considering cutting the whole thing off and starting new. Looking for ideas - would like to keep the 4 way - the splitter seems to handle it ok - a few pieces get stuck but only the nastiest. Should I go to just a single wedge? Any TBN vendors I should consider? Solutions?

 

[Dozernut]

Had the same thing happen on my old home built splitter. I got a longer wedge, cut a hole in the top of the I beam and inserted the wedge so it rested on the bottom I beam flange. Then I welded the top, bottom and sides of the wedge to the I beam, problem solved.

 

[Arc weld]

Judging by the bolt for a brace, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Pretty crappy workmanship. Make a new 4 way wedge at least 6" long and if you don't have enough skill, get an experienced welder to weld it with 7018. A 3 pass fillet about 5/8" to 3/4" all around it would be plenty strong enough. While your at fix up the welds on the cylinder mount. There's a lot pressure and you don't want pieces flying if it breaks. Some log splitters use a vertical I beam welded behind the wedge for added strength.

 

[CJONE]

Judging by the bolt for a brace, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Pretty crappy workmanship. Make a new 4 way wedge at least 6" long and if you don't have enough skill, get an experienced welder to weld it with 7018. A 3 pass fillet about 5/8" to 3/4" all around it would be plenty strong enough. While your at fix up the welds on the cylinder mount. There's a lot pressure and you don't want pieces flying if it breaks. Some log splitters use a vertical I beam welded behind the wedge for added strength.

+1 Look at the weld or lack of on the top wedge, it looks like 1 small stringer bead at best. No wonder it broke. A slip on wedge for the 4 way works well also, then take it off when you don't need it. Great plains has them sometimes. CJ

 

[merlynr]

My homemade wedge has the Ibeam behind it also and no problems in 4 years.

 

[Scotty Dive]

I think I am going to try to repair it. I can mig a little but do have a new to me stick welder and this would be a good project for me to get some experience. Even if a spend a few hours putting this back on and it fails I will be better off getting some real world experience and can just cut it off and install a brand new wedge later and I will be a little smarter when/if I do.

Arc Weld - you mentioned 7018 rods. I do have a box of 1/8" 6011 - would that suffice or are the 7018 far superior for this project especially for someone with little experience? And, three passes at a minimum and bevel back the edges before welding right?

 

[merlynr]

I'm a self taught welder and the 7018 are harder to use. I welded a bunch on mine with 6011 and all ok so far.

 

[davedj1]

If it was mine (and it's what I have) I would use a single wedge (knife) and make a slip on 4 way. I like having the option of taking it off and I also have a 6 way for special wood.

 

[Shield Arc]

Arc Weld - you mentioned 7018 rods. I do have a box of 1/8" 6011 - would that suffice or are the 7018 far superior for this project especially for someone with little experience?

Couple threads that may be of some interest to you.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/211904-7018-break-test.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/211903-6011-break-test.html

 

[ruffdog]

I would grind off the welds that are on top, clean up the top wedge, bevel the top wedge with large bevels, use that 6011 rod.

 

[crazyal]

You can buy a replacement wedge from Northern tool that's made from harden steel.

 

[ruffdog]

You can buy a replacement wedge from Northern tool that's made from harden steel.

Welding dissimilar metals takes much care. You don't want that hardened steel cracking right next to the weld.

 

[Oliver1655]

The big problem with the horizontal portion of the wedge is the thickness & have an angle on the underside of the horizontal portion of the wedge. By having only one edge beveled & on the top side of the horizontal splitting edge, you will not have the lower split piece of wood being wedged between the beam & the wedge. Get a piece of 1/2" thick plate 16" long & 6 - 12" wide. Along the 16" edge cut/grind a bevel on one side only at approximately a 35-40 degree angle. When you weld this to the top of the vertical wedge keep the beveled edge up & positioned around 2" back from the vertical wedge. This way you will be splitting in 2 stages, left/right, then up/down. I would also use 1/2" flat to make a vertical wedge to go on top of the horizontal portion which is 8" tall. Bevel both sides of this piece & have it lined up with the bottom edge.

It is possible to make this add on "4-way" removable. It is not an adjustable height, but it is easy to add on & remove. In a nut shell I had a piece of 2.5" square tubing welded to the back of my stationary wedge . I slid a length of 2"square solid bar down into it then added another piece of 2.5" tubing to keep it uniform. This is what supports the upside down "T"


The upside down "T": The horizontal edge had a "V" notch cut into it to which I welded an 8" long piece of 3"x3"x1/4" thick angle iron. The upper vertical splitting edge was welded to it & the horizontal flat creating the upside down "T". The angle iron is then butted up to the 2.5" length of tubing which stick up above the fixed wedge which gives it the 4-way/cross look. Then cut a couple 1/2" lengths of the angle iron to go on the backside of the 2.5" tubing. Weld one to the angle iron on the wedge towards the bottom & one at the top. You will have to shorten these small pieces of angle iron so you have a close to the tubing but not a tight fit. I used angle iron instead of 3" tubing on the "T" so if the 2.5" wedge mount should bend any and the 4-way option were to get stuck, you only have to cut a half of inch of angle iron on the bottom retainer, spread it a little & off it will come.

To keep the vertical edges in alignment, I welded 2 small pieces of steel to the underside of the "T" which cradles the lower vertical/fixed wedge. (See 2nd picture)

I have split several cords of wood with this wedge system & am very happy with it. A couple of additional benefits: 1 - The taller wedge cuts the "strings" allowing the rounds to fall apart more consistently. 2 - You can stack up 2-3 smaller rounds & split them at the same time.

 

[PANHAPP]

Scotty can you show us some pictures of the rest of the splitter?

 

[Scotty Dive]

Thanks for the ideas Oliver - the pictures REALLY help.
Picked up some 7018 rods...will get to this job soon, I hope
Panhapp - what pictures would you like?

 

[PANHAPP]

From looking at just the wedge end I am wondering if you might be ahead to replace the beam. How about the cylinder mount and such?

 

[Raw Dodge]

Not trying to discourage you but this job isn't for an amateur ,the 70 series rods are IMO best welded with DC current,and a lot of experience to get the penetration you need to without melting thru the thinner beam....anything less than a great job will result in another failure..

 

[Scotty Dive]

Panhapp - the i beam is good and the cylinder mount is solid -



Raw Dodge - No problem. I am not afraid of failing on this - its all part of the learning curve. I will give it my best and if it doesn't hold will buy or build something from Northern or maybe like Oliver made. I have some time as I am splitting next years wood at the moment.

 

[ruffdog]

Not trying to discourage you but this job isn't for an amateur ,the 70 series rods are IMO best welded with DC current,and a lot of experience to get the penetration you need to without melting thru the thinner beam....anything less than a great job will result in another failure..

I agree...I use 7018 for cover passes, not root passes.

 

[Scotty Dive]

Let me ask for some advice - I have a DC stick machine and I have run about 24 inches of rod so far so take that into consideration.

For a newbie - how would you attack this? I have already ground bevels into both pieces. I have 6011 and 7018 to use. I also have a mig 110 machine with flux core. My plan was to stick weld it in place and to also attach a single brace from the top of the wedge to the i beam much like the existing bolt welded in place but higher up.

I am just looking for some friendly advice on how to attack this. Clearly it does not need to be pretty just functional and if it last another 25 cords that is PERFECT for me. I already plan on doing A LOT of grinding after its welded!