Log trailer

[SI2305]

Hi All,

A couple of years back we had a pretty bad storm through here and in the roughly 3 acres of woodland we owned, we lost about 25 large, mature trees--giant oak and hickory mostly. Now, 3 years later, invasive species have taken over and the area looks like Vietnam jungle. To make a bright side to this story, I decided to make use of those huge, blown-over trunks by using them as sides of raised bed gardens.

The problem: getting them from the woods to the gardens which involves crossing my yard. I don't really want to skid them over yard I have worked so hard to put in.

The answer: the log trailer. Simple in concept and massively eases the process of moving them long distances.

These picts are of the trailer in action, but I will try to get a picture of the actual device shortly.

SI2305

 

[SI2305]

Hi all--

OK, I have to ask a couple of questions regarding my log trailer. Firstly, Though it did work, the setup was not optimal for hookup. As I have it set up now, I have chains attached to eye-bolts on the 3pt arm spreader. These chains then run under and around the log. This setup does not allow me much room to lift as I already have to lift the 3pt over the height of the log and invariably there is some slack in the chains which worsens the problem with the 3pt. In the picture, the 3pt was raised to the maximum height.

Dare I rest the log on top of the 3pt spreader bar and chain it in place in that position? That would make any raising issue vastly simpler, but I am concerned about putting so much weight on the center section of the spreader. Presently, the bolt/chain connections are near the ends of the spreader (I will attach a picture later).

In the past I had raised logs (that were skidded and made a mess) with an eye-bolt drilled into the log and using that point to raise the log, but I still had issues with ground clearance.

Alternately, I considered running eye-bolts from the ends of the spreader (pointed down), an eye-bolt on the log and connecting the whole thing with a section of re-bar or other rigid rod type connection.

Just for information, the 3pt spreader and vertical stabilizer were Northern Tool acquisitions. The bar seems pretty tough and certainly is a beefy, heavy piece that works wonderfully for towing operations (we own an 8' trailer and the whole setup will happily tow the trailer filled to the max with whatever we can get into it.)

Another issue is the tire assembly. Right now, the tires are bolted to the end grain of the lower 4x4 and are spaced away from the wood with a series of washers. Though it worked just fine this time, I am a bit concerned about lag screws holding up to pretty heavy loads. Maybe this fear is justified, maybe not but any input is appreciated.

Once again, I have given a long-winded explanation of a spontaneous creation I have built up for my little 2305 (which handled the lifting and towing effortlessly. In fact at one point, in order to get the trailer under the log I used the bucket, dipped it under the log and lifted it till the log was raised perhaps 60-70 degrees. No, not the safest, but since no one was near the log, I thought all would be OK. I lowered the log nice and easy onto the trailer and the rest was pretty straight forward). I appreciate any input into modifications I might make and I thank you in advance.

SI2305

JD 2305
200CX, LX4, 60" Grader blade, 60" LandPride finish mower that replaced our old lawn mower, middlebuster, home made grass rake for long field grass collection, and now a specialized trailer to move heavy logs

Thanks

 

[beenthere]

Interesting dolly wheels under the log. Good that you can make do with what you have.

Another option sometime might be the logging arch that carries a log similar to how an LP gas tank is carried slung underneath. Like this
http://www.logrite.com/fetchingarch.html

I use the iMatch quick hitch to attach the log, and the carry point is up high.

 

[deezler]

I like the ingenuity. But a joke about protecting that weed-patch you call a lawn would just be too easy, haha!

 

[SI2305]

Beenthere,

I seriously considered an arch-type system, but I could not come up with a plan that I thought was structurally sound. As you may have remembered, I have a penchant for working with wood and no experience with metal. I also have no imatch, but instead I use a Pat's Easy Change.

As for the dolly wheel--the are actually more of a wheelbarrow type, and I bought the broadest I could find precisely because I thought anything less would dig ruts.

As it is the tires are not so bad, but I am a bit concerned about their attachment. Presently, they are attached by long lag screws, but I can only hope that method holds up. I would bi interested in knowing anyone else's thoughts on the lag screws, a replacement, or something else altogether that I missed.

By the way, the images I set are a bit deceptive. The log actually takes a convenient bend for my benefit that is hidden by a side-shoot that was sawed off. Other logs likely would not work so kindly for me.

Thanks for the info, I love cultivating all these ideas I can get.

SI2305

JD 2305
200CX, LX4, 60" Grader blade, 60" LandPride finish mower that replaced our old lawn mower, middlebuster, home made grass rake for long field grass collection, and now a specialized trailer to move heavy logs

 

[bcp]

On hilly ground, it looks like all the log weight could be on either the front or rear "axle."

Add a crosspiece between the axles for the log to rest on and let all 4 wheels share the load, like in the photo below.

More old logging wagons:
Lindsey Eight Wheel Log Wagon Pictures

Bruce

 

[SI2305]

I thought I would add a couple of pictures of the trailer minus any log. The close up is to show connecting points for the "axel". The wheel is mounted by lag screw into endgrain 4x4. I will be the first to admit that endgrain is hardly the strongest point for drilling and I thought about moving at least one set of wheels--probably the rear--the 2x4 that rides under the upper 4x4. That would make for a closer positioning of wheels which would make steering easier but wider/longer makes for more stable with heavy loads. And I certainly want this to be stable on my "weed patch" that I am trying to bring back to life after the storm wrecked much with all the trees it blew on top-haha!

again, any thoughts welcome.

SI2305


JD 2305
200CX, LX4, 60" Grader blade, 60" LandPride finish mower that replaced our old lawn mower, middlebuster, home made grass rake for long field grass collection, and now a specialized trailer to move heavy logs

 

[SI2305]

trailer and log arch,

I should have mentioned this earlier and I will attach pictures when I can. I did come up with a log arch of sorts, but is mostly has to do with how I get the log onto the trailer itself. I own one of those step ladders that can be made into about 100 different configurations. One thing I can say about them is that they are very sturdy, not the cheap aluminum ones typically found in bib-box stores. I made a little rig that fits in the upper rungs of the step ladder and attached to this rig is a marine boat winch. My thought is that if it can pull several thousand pounds of boat out of the water and onto a trailer, then it can pull a couple hundred pounds of log off the ground so I can slide my trailer under it. I don't have any pictures now, but I will attach some soon. The beauty of this system is that all it cost me was the winch ($30). The rest was stuff I had laying around. Better still, both the arch (stepladder) and trailer both fit into the bucket for easy transport to the site and easy removal after

I will post soon,

SI2305

JD 2305
200CX, LX4, 60" Grader blade, 60" LandPride finish mower that replaced our old lawn mower, middlebuster, home made grass rake for long field grass collection, and now a specialized trailer to move heavy logs

 

[aczlan]

What I would do if I wanted the axles to be stronger would be to get a piece of threaded rod that was long enough to go across the cart and through both wheels, then get a piece of black iron pipe long enough to stick out as far as your washers are now.
Then I would put the threaded rod through the pipe and fasten the pipe to the cart.
Here is a picture:


Aaron Z

 

[swick1]

Threaded rod would be weaker because all of the bending stress is on one thread. Use solid steel rod instead with washers and a cotter pin. Use another 2 pins on the inside wood piece to hold the rod centered between the wheels so one side doesn't bind its wheel